EAS Driver Pack

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Canyon

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Having read lots of threads on this EAS faults my "pressure signal constantly high" message , with the random auto height selection, and defunkt theory that eas breaks only when it rains, I have concluded it is my driver pack on its last legs- ( having to reset the fault message once a week now ) BTW does anyone know why it throws errors randomly - i always thought with electronics once they blow thats it its dead? how do electronics slowly die?

FYI, no hard faults registered, 106k, only other fault is "vehicle has moved" ( this message is a dead end- not reports on what it means or why it is caused.)

Where is this magic box located in or out side the vehicle?

Has anyone found the connectors to this driver pack coming loose? and thus causing the fault?

I do appreciate that this device is non serviceable, so a direct replacement needs to be sourced.

Where is it the cheapest to buy? and is it worth buying used?
 
I have this problem too but I really don't think it's the driver pack.

All it means is that the pressure isn't getting high enough to trip the pressure switch within a predetermined period of time and that this has happened a certain number of times in a row. It is far more likely to be a worn pump or a leak somewhere.

I've checked everywhere for leaks and have concluded that mine is an internal leak in the valve block so I'll get round to overhauling it soon although I'd rather find a good 2nd hand one to use while I'm doing it as it's my everyday drive.

If yours isn't showing any other drive pack symptoms then I would be surprised if this was to blame.

Just my opinion!

Guy
 
Stripped out my valve block, cleaned it all up, and replaced all rubber seals inside of 4 hours. Having a spare may boost your confidence but I`d suggest it ain`t necessary. If Kooky were to take out his own , spend time putting in a 2nd hand one, only to find it`s a bummer, while could have been re-furbing own..? If SURE you got a good-un, ok, but be sure. The above does assume the existing block is only worn and not busted of course.
 
just found out that its actually filled with a resin. So defo no serviceable.
Anyway I am going to have a go at changing it over today.
Something tells me that I should be changing the compressor piston seal, an maybe also relacing the diaphram and o rings in the valve block....
what do you think?
 
UPDATE
Changed out driver pack today, not sure how to test of the old one was a duffer. Had a quick look at the compressor seal and it is like new.
Is there a way to test the old driver pack?
 
Canyon said:
UPDATE
Changed out driver pack today, not sure how to test of the old one was a duffer. Had a quick look at the compressor seal and it is like new.
Is there a way to test the old driver pack?
Click to expand...

Well if it's fixed your problems then it's a safe bet that the old one was duff. :)

Guy
 
I speak with another P38 "expert", he mentioned that the air drier could be at fault....makes me think if the air is damp then the pressure sensor will be fouled sending the eas fault on the dash... ( Thinking about my other theory about eas faults happening only when its wet???) Damp air in the system cant be good can it?

Who else knows about this air drier?
 
Canyon said:
Who else knows about this air drier?
Click to expand...

The air drier is supposed to have a life as long as the vehicle, but of course since I assume no one knows what constitutes a life, then it may well be duff. They are quite cheap so I guess no big expense to get one and rule it out of the equation.
 
The air reservoir tank is supposed to be checked and drained of water on one of the services, I forget which one. If there is water in the tank the dryer should be replaced.
 
Canyon said:
I speak with another P38 "expert", he mentioned that the air drier could be at fault....makes me think if the air is damp then the pressure sensor will be fouled sending the eas fault on the dash... ( Thinking about my other theory about eas faults happening only when its wet???) Damp air in the system cant be good can it?

Who else knows about this air drier?
Click to expand...

I think you're over analysing this. The long and short of it is that your EAS is telling you that it's not getting to full pressure. That either means you've got a leak, or the pump is weak, or the pressure sensor is dodgy.

Out of those 3, the pressure sensor is the least likely to be faulty - I don't think it's possible for it to get gummed up.

It is possible for the o ring at the top of the drier to leak (as it is for all the o rings - so it would be worth checking it with the soapy water test) but I can't see how else it would have any other bearing on your pressure problem.

But by all means, go ahead and replace everything else.

Guy
 
kooky_guy said:
I think you're over analysing this. The long and short of it is that your EAS is telling you that it's not getting to full pressure. That either means you've got a leak, or the pump is weak, or the pressure sensor is dodgy.

Out of those 3, the pressure sensor is the least likely to be faulty - I don't think it's possible for it to get gummed up.

It is possible for the o ring at the top of the drier to leak (as it is for all the o rings - so it would be worth checking it with the soapy water test) but I can't see how else it would have any other bearing on your pressure problem.

But by all means, go ahead and replace everything else.

Guy
Click to expand...

I agree with that. Could aso be an electrical connection problem.
 
Datatek said:
I agree with that. Could aso be an electrical connection problem.
Click to expand...


I have been thinking about this too. The electrical connection could be at each height sensor which could be a problem. so again if i disconnect them , clean the contacts etc, do i need to re calibrate the heights again?

Btw the Leak test has been done - (twice and still cant find anything) and the pump was checked yesterday and all is as new (seal).
Pressure switch- like you say unlikely....
 
Canyon said:
I have been thinking about this too. The electrical connection could be at each height sensor which could be a problem. so again if i disconnect them , clean the contacts etc, do i need to re calibrate the heights again?

Btw the Leak test has been done - (twice and still cant find anything) and the pump was checked yesterday and all is as new (seal).
Pressure switch- like you say unlikely....
Click to expand...

What exactly are your symptoms? If it's randomly changing height, I read that this can be caused by one or more leaking non return valves (inside the valve block).

As I mentioned earlier, I have the same error coming up on mine periodically but I'm confident the leak is inside the valve block. There definitely is a leak somewhere as one corner will usually drop overnight with EAS disabled. Does yours do this?
 
Canyon said:
I have been thinking about this too. The electrical connection could be at each height sensor which could be a problem. so again if i disconnect them , clean the contacts etc, do i need to re calibrate the heights again?

Btw the Leak test has been done - (twice and still cant find anything) and the pump was checked yesterday and all is as new (seal).
Pressure switch- like you say unlikely....
Click to expand...


Freeze the suspension by leaving the tailgate open and you can disconnect without the EAS knowing what you are up to.
You would only need to re-calibrate in the unlikely event that you had a consistant bad reading from 1 sensor which was due to the connector.
 
OK , I have done a overnight test - tailgate open, no drop in pressure or sagging, another bubble test- nothing.
Usually what happens is i get random height change and a "soft fault" a day or so later. Read the faults and i get "pressure signal constantly high", and "vehicle has moved". that's it...
I thought it had something to do with wet weather ( hence the air drier theory) or a bad sensor ( but no message on eas suite), big pot holes and speed humps- out of range ...etc Checked the pump seal- all like new.

So i replace the driver pack....
 
Canyon said:
OK , I have done a overnight test - tailgate open, no drop in pressure or sagging, another bubble test- nothing.
Usually what happens is i get random height change and a "soft fault" a day or so later. Read the faults and i get "pressure signal constantly high", and "vehicle has moved". that's it...
I thought it had something to do with wet weather ( hence the air drier theory) or a bad sensor ( but no message on eas suite), big pot holes and speed humps- out of range ...etc Checked the pump seal- all like new.

So i replace the driver pack....
Click to expand...

Ok, you've done that already though. Are you still getting the EAS Fault messages?

Personally I just can't see how the pressure error could be caused by the driver pack, but who knows with these things!

Random height changes can apparently be caused by leaking non return valves inside the valve block which wouldn't necessarily be picked up by a leak test. I just don't know if a leak here would cause overnight dropping though.

I know the symptoms here aren't quite the same as yours but there is some good detail of how things work in this thread:

RangeRovers.net • View topic - EAS compressor working far too much
 
Update:
Now covered over 100 ( rough terrain, big puddles, high kerbs, speed humps and ofcourse the hundreds of pot holes which are now a " feature " of our roads) miles or so and replacing my driver pack seems to have fixed my EAS fault issue. I was getting EAS faults every 30- 50 miles. Self leveling is working like it should, no drops at all over night, although one thing I have noticed is that it does seem to ride slightly higher. Sometimes when I park up I notice it looks like it's at wading height, but not on the dash. Maybe some re calibration is in order. What are the height settings again- some one please????


BTW changing over the driver pack is a palava. You have to remove the whole lot, airlines, valve block, housing etc and also you have to pin out the pressure switch by removing the yellow inner sleeve and pushing the pins out and transplanting them over to the new driver pack terminal block. Again all time and planning- takes all about 2 hours.
 
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