P38A EAS Compressor thermal switch: Sorted. Switch is kaput.

MacMan6107 said:

I've not heard of Factory 4x4 so have added them to the list. Paddocks were about the same as Rimmer but more expensive on shipping.

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tomcat59alan said:

Not Factory,but Foundary, I've always found them reasonable priced and very helpful.

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marjon said:

It needs to be Vacuum hose, the wall is thicker and reinforced I think.

Any motor factor should carry reels of the stuff.
Not sure if Halfords would.

J

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MacMan6107 said:

Sorry that was a typo. It wasa Foundry 4x4 I found.


Cheers. I'll keep looking.

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• I̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶r̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶m̶o̶t̶o̶r̶,̶ ̶I̶ ̶a̶m̶ ̶w̶o̶n̶d̶e̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶a̶ ̶g̶o̶o̶d̶ ̶i̶d̶e̶a̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶w̶e̶l̶l̶ ̶a̶l̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶k̶i̶n̶g̶(̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶n̶o̶w̶)̶,̶ ̶o̶r̶ ̶d̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶j̶u̶s̶t̶ ̶r̶e̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶I̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶b̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶i̶n̶?̶ ̶Hmmm It ain't broke so I ain't fixing it.
  
• Replace the air suspension compressor dryer, I can tell it hasn't been changed in a long time, so it is likely the original. So I shall install that this week
• Remove & replace the brake fluid. I̶ ̶f̶o̶u̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶H̶a̶w̶k̶e̶y̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶l̶e̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶a̶k̶e̶s̶ ̶p̶r̶o̶p̶e̶r̶l̶y̶. Consult RAVE instead. I just need to get a container to collect all the old fluid.
• Remove the rear left wheel and guard trim to find the leak in the air suspension.
  
• Remove and replace the engine oil
• Oh, I found that one of the rear exhaust rubber things has disappeared. Very odd. Why? Because they were all brand new and installed in November of last year. So I need to buy a new one of those.
  
• Get the headliner replaced
• Sort out the rust at the rear left wheel arch and the right rear 1/4 panel.
• See if I can get the sunroof working. The previous owner said he'd gone through everything, tried a new switch-pack as well, which I still have the old one. The main thing is that it isn't leaking.
• No doubt the list is a mile long, like everyone else's.
  
• Oh and the throttle body fluid/coolant leak.

MacMan6107 said:

Okay here is where I am at. I pulled the fuse box out and found this (see the pics). So we pulled it apart, cleaned it up, and put it back together after testing every relay, yes all of them. So when we were sure they were all good we put them all back in the exact place they were removed from. Why? Because I know that in those positions the car at least worked. But I think, I really don't know other than there is corrosion and burn marks on the board and 1 relay, that it may be prudent to just replace the fuse box for a brand new one (no I don't have tons of money). At least that way I know it will be fine.................................maybe.
Of course, if the fine experts of this electric wizardry here can tell just from looking at the pics if it is g̶o̶o̶d̶, at least useable in its current state, or not please let me know. I understand totally that it would need to be tested to find out for certain (I don't really want to pay for an auto electrician to come out to test it and say "It's stuffed" and have to end up buying a new one anyway). I don't really want to get a 2nd hand part because I'd rather know there are no problems. So if there are any power surges that should take care of that. I hope. I welcome advice with regards to that.










So, what do you think?

Also, I found another likely issue. Exciting times! Since I bought the car I have had aircon problems. Had the blend motors replaced (yes dash out and uber-expensive!). Had the system tested, emptied, and refilled but last night on the men's thinking chair I had an epiphany. Is the clutch engaging? No, it isn't. Are the relays good? Yep, checked them today. Are the fuses good? Yep, I had them in my hands today. Does it have gas in it or any leaks? Yes, it has gas, and no there are no leaks. So I am thinking the compressor is likely stuffed. The reason I believe this is because the P38 I had back in Australia even with the little book symbol on (which isn't always on with this one...I know!) the aircon worked brilliantly.
I'll have a dig around the forum to see what others have done to deal with this but my first thoughts are..............................new compressor. As I said, exciting times.
So now my to-do list is;

• I have a new starter motor, I am wondering if it is a good idea to leave well alone what is working(for now), or do I just replace it knowing I then have a brand new one in? Hmmm
• Replace the air suspension compressor dryer, I can tell it hasn't been changed in a long time, so it is likely the original. So I shall install that this week
• Remove & replace the brake fluid. I found out I can use Hawkeye to bleed the brakes properly. I just need to get a container to collect all the old fluid.
• Remove the rear left wheel and guard trim to find the leak in the air suspension.
  
• Remove and replace the engine oil
• Oh, I found that one of the rear exhaust rubber things has disappeared. Very odd. Why? Because they were all brand new and installed in November of last year. So I need to buy a new one of those.
  
• Get the headliner replaced
• Sort out the rust at the rear left wheel arch and the right rear 1/4 panel.
• See if I can get the sunroof working. The previous owner said he'd gone through everything, tried a new switch-pack as well, which I still have the old one. The main thing is that it isn't leaking.
• No doubt the list is a mile long, like everyone else's.
  
• Oh and the throttle body fluid leak.

As I said. Exciting times.

One last thing. I'd just like to say a huge thank you to you guys for helping me out. If I had hair to be saved from pulling out, you guys have saved some of that..........you get what I mean (I hope).

Anyway, kind regards

Craig

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oakey said:

If it aint broke dont fix it so keep the starter motor in it box
How do you know AC clutch isnt working?
I dont think Hawkeye will bleed brakes, think you still need foot on pedal etc

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Grrrrrr said:

You don't need Hawkeye for the brakes. Just follow the procedure in RAVE. All Hawkeye will do is duplicate the step where you have the ignition on.

Aircon. Has the panel ever been replaced? There are a bewildering array that Marty documented in the technical section.

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MacMan6107 said:

I can tell by watching it. You can see as well as hear when the clutch does its thing. This one doesn't, never engages, and hasn't done the whole time I have owned the car. But before I do anything with it I'll be hitting the technical archive and the forum to see how best to approach it. Thankfully it isn't an issue that stops us from driving the car, as we have done fine without it for the last 3 and a bit years. It would just be great to get it working properly, same with the sunroof.
My wife and I decided last night after I had written this and thus not seen your comment until this morning, that we are doing just that with the starter motor. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.



What do you mean by panel? Is that the HVAC unit? If so, I have no idea. It still works though. Re brake bleeding thank you. I'll read over all documentation so I fully understand the procedure before even attempting. I know how to bleed brakes but I know from helping my dad recon the ABS & brakes for a living back in Oz 15 or so years ago it is somewhat slightly more complicated than most other cars I have done of the same era.

My 1st order of business with the car is the fuse box & the rear left air leak. I'm not going to plug the compressor in until I know I have sorted the leak first.

Cheers guys

Craig

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pwood999 said:

Test the A/C clutch by unplugging the connector and then connecting 12V across the two terminals. Also check the gap which I believe should be << 0.8mm.

https://www.rangerovers.net/threads/air-con-compressor-clutch-not-working.290466/

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brianp38dse said:

Yes Grrrrrr ment the hvac unit there are a few different model numbers and some need an extra wire to run the ac as some switch direct from the hvac and some through a relay, have a check the ac comressor may even be unplugged.

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brianp38dse said:

Yes Grrrrrr ment the hvac unit there are a few different model numbers and some need an extra wire to run the ac as some switch direct from the hvac and some through a relay, have a check the ac comressor may even be unplugged.

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MacMan6107 said:

I couldn't even get the cover off for the serpentine belt. They sure didn't have maintenance in their mind when drawing all of that in! So consequently I couldn't check anything last night. I think I'm going to need to degas this system then strip it down and check the compressor. So as I said I need to remove the throttle body soon so I'll try and sort it out for then. We shall see how things go.

Cheers

Craig

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MacMan6107 said:

I couldn't even get the cover off for the serpentine belt. They sure didn't have maintenance in their mind when drawing all of that in! So consequently I couldn't check anything last night. I think I'm going to need to degas this system then strip it down and check the compressor. So as I said I need to remove the throttle body soon so I'll try and sort it out for then. We shall see how things go.

Cheers

Craig

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Gord Wedman said:

No, no, no
How are going to check for a working compressor with it sitting on the bench? You need to have the engine running and then you do two things:
1. You jump the relay in the fuse box to see if the clutch engages and you get cold air.
2. If that does not result in cold air you disconnect the plug from the compressor and connect 12 volts to the pins to engage the clutch. It should draw about 4 amps and you should get cold air if you have gas and a working compressor.
If you do get cold air your problem is not the compressor. Assuming you have enough gas the most common culprits are the trinary switch or the multiple connector behind the passenger's side kick panel which often gets wet and corrodes.

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tomcat59alan said:

What's up with the throttle body? If it's leaking water most just join the two pipe's with a piece of tube.its a bugger to stop it leaking so better to bypass it.

Click to expand...

MacMan6107 said:

Okay here is where I am at. I pulled the fuse box out and found this (see the pics). So we pulled it apart, cleaned it up, and put it back together after testing every relay, yes all of them. So when we were sure they were all good we put them all back in the exact place they were removed from. Why? Because I know that in those positions the car at least worked. But I think, I really don't know other than there is corrosion and burn marks on the board and 1 relay, that it may be prudent to just replace the fuse box for a brand new one (no I don't have tons of money). At least that way I know it will be fine.................................maybe.
Of course, if the fine experts of this electric wizardry here can tell just from looking at the pics if it is g̶o̶o̶d̶, at least useable in its current state, or not please let me know. I understand totally that it would need to be tested to find out for certain (I don't really want to pay for an auto electrician to come out to test it and say "It's stuffed" and have to end up buying a new one anyway). I don't really want to get a 2nd hand part because I'd rather know there are no problems. So if there are any power surges that should take care of that. I hope. I welcome advice with regards to that.










So, what do you think?

Also, I found another likely issue. Exciting times! Since I bought the car I have had aircon problems. Had the blend motors replaced (yes dash out and uber-expensive!). Had the system tested, emptied, and refilled but last night on the men's thinking chair I had an epiphany. Is the clutch engaging? No, it isn't. Are the relays good? Yep, checked them today. Are the fuses good? Yep, I had them in my hands today. Does it have gas in it or any leaks? Yes, it has gas, and no there are no leaks. So I am thinking the compressor is likely stuffed. The reason I believe this is because the P38 I had back in Australia even with the little book symbol on (which isn't always on with this one...I know!) the aircon worked brilliantly.
I'll have a dig around the forum to see what others have done to deal with this but my first thoughts are..............................new compressor. As I said, exciting times.
So now my to-do list is;

• I̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶s̶t̶a̶r̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶m̶o̶t̶o̶r̶,̶ ̶I̶ ̶a̶m̶ ̶w̶o̶n̶d̶e̶r̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶i̶f̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶a̶ ̶g̶o̶o̶d̶ ̶i̶d̶e̶a̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶l̶e̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶w̶e̶l̶l̶ ̶a̶l̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶i̶s̶ ̶w̶o̶r̶k̶i̶n̶g̶(̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶n̶o̶w̶)̶,̶ ̶o̶r̶ ̶d̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶j̶u̶s̶t̶ ̶r̶e̶p̶l̶a̶c̶e̶ ̶i̶t̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶I̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶n̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶b̶r̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶i̶n̶?̶ ̶Hmmm It ain't broke so I ain't fixing it.
  
• Replace the air suspension compressor dryer, I can tell it hasn't been changed in a long time, so it is likely the original. So I shall install that this week
• Remove & replace the brake fluid. I̶ ̶f̶o̶u̶n̶d̶ ̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶I̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶u̶s̶e̶ ̶H̶a̶w̶k̶e̶y̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶l̶e̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶a̶k̶e̶s̶ ̶p̶r̶o̶p̶e̶r̶l̶y̶. Consult RAVE instead. I just need to get a container to collect all the old fluid.
• Remove the rear left wheel and guard trim to find the leak in the air suspension.
  
• Remove and replace the engine oil
• Oh, I found that one of the rear exhaust rubber things has disappeared. Very odd. Why? Because they were all brand new and installed in November of last year. So I need to buy a new one of those.
  
• Get the headliner replaced
• Sort out the rust at the rear left wheel arch and the right rear 1/4 panel.
• See if I can get the sunroof working. The previous owner said he'd gone through everything, tried a new switch-pack as well, which I still have the old one. The main thing is that it isn't leaking.
• No doubt the list is a mile long, like everyone else's.
  
• Oh and the throttle body fluid/coolant leak.

As I said. Exciting times.

One last thing. I'd just like to say a huge thank you to you guys for helping me out. If I had hair to be saved from pulling out, you guys have saved some of that..........you get what I mean (I hope).

Anyway, kind regards

Craig

Click to expand...