EAS cable to reset received, plugged in, all hell breaks loose!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Vinny73

Active Member
Posts
154
Hi

Bit of a problem, recieved EAS cable and software, plugged in laptop read codes for EAS and did reset BUT now all i have is about every warning possible on the display on the dashboard, alternator fault, gearbox failure, traction failure, etc etc etc. No rev counter and temp guage goes straight into the red from cold.

Battery was flat, but had enough juice to make clicking noise when tried to turn over, jumped off another car, started up, but the faults remain.

Go to drive it and it just died.

Any ideas please? Will a dead battery (which is brand new by the way) cause all these faulty readings.

Car is pretty useless to me right now, tho I hope its not serious.

EAS cable was only plugged into the EAS port, passenger footwell above where right foot would be roughly.

Help please.....
 
1st time i used it i got all the faults, i used the lock and unlock button and all was fine, dont know about the flat battery causing faults but im sure some of the guys on here will put you right, where u based?
 
Hi

Bit of a problem, recieved EAS cable and software, plugged in laptop read codes for EAS and did reset BUT now all i have is about every warning possible on the display on the dashboard, alternator fault, gearbox failure, traction failure, etc etc etc. No rev counter and temp guage goes straight into the red from cold.

Battery was flat, but had enough juice to make clicking noise when tried to turn over, jumped off another car, started up, but the faults remain.

Go to drive it and it just died.

Any ideas please? Will a dead battery (which is brand new by the way) cause all these faulty readings.

Car is pretty useless to me right now, tho I hope its not serious.

EAS cable was only plugged into the EAS port, passenger footwell above where right foot would be roughly.

Help please.....

Just goes to show, you should never ever try to access the EAS ECU or the BECM with a flat battery, the computers just don't function well if they don't have a stable supply voltage.:doh::doh::doh:
I suggest that you disconnect the battery, charge and then reconnect it, if you are lucky you will only have to do the EKA code routine,if you are unlucky you may end up sending the BECM away to be reset.:eek::eek::eek: Others with more knowledge will either confirm this or say otherwise.
 
From experience over the past 5 years of p38 ownership, I have noted they HATE flat or dying batteries and can cause a display full of faults like the one described- you prob used the last ounce of battery power with the plug in routine and ended up with all those faults -

p38s also do not like jump starts and I guess its possible you may have damaged the BECM by jumpstarting - you should really have removed the battery and recharged it first rather than jumpstart, but hopefully you haven't damaged the BECM. Have you changed the RF receiver so you don't get the dead battery syndrome or was it flat just because you hadn't used it in a long while?

Here's hoping its just a battery problem :eek:
 
contrary to what is said above, i have jumped mine loads of times and its fine, i have also tampered with the obd2 plug, as you all know, with no ill effects. i was soldering the wires to the obd2 plug with the battery on and nothing went untoward!!!

the ignition was OFF when you plugged the cable in wasnt it?

i would re charge battery and try again, what method did you use when jumping? did you put wires to pos and body or to pos and neg on battery?
 
contrary to what is said above, i have jumped mine loads of times and its fine, i have also tampered with the obd2 plug, as you all know, with no ill effects. i was soldering the wires to the obd2 plug with the battery on and nothing went untoward!!!

the ignition was OFF when you plugged the cable in wasnt it?

i would re charge battery and try again, what method did you use when jumping? did you put wires to pos and body or to pos and neg on battery?

evnin grumpy:D:D nuts,how are you.
 
good,i am having probs with the blend motors,put the new one in and it still will not do as its told,i have tested it and it is working so i will have to try the front panel now to see if thats at fault.:mad::mad::mad:
 
they are a pain in the ass when things go wrong, just keep chipping away at it and you'll crack it eventually!

so you have beld motors spare then?
 
Well, thanks to all the on topic responders :)
The car started before I did anything, it was a little slower than usual turning over, but I didn't suspect a flat battery.
So I switched off the ignition and connected up the cable and laptop, started the software, then put the ignition to on, not to start the engine.
Hit initialize, read the codes, hit unlock EAS.
Attempted to start engine, click click click... dead battery effect and loads of alerts on the display.

Jumped the car, started no prob. When I bought this car it had a dead battery and was jumped numerous times with no problem. It's a 99/V reg if that makes any dif, Bosch not Lucas electrics.

The battery has not been a problem at all and is 3.5mths old. It's utterly crap if a P38 kills a battery in that time, and worse, in just 2 days of being off the road with an EAS problem.

Incidently, the EAS worked for a short while, and the back end of the car is now ride height, the front didnt come up as it didnt run long enough.

BCEM problem? Really with all the above in mind could it be that serious? Anyway, I have AA parts and labour breakdown, so if I charge the battery and it doesn't work, they can take it away and sort it.
Beyond that, it's got a warranty too, so all it is, is a load of hassle. Annoying too.
 
Back
Top