EAS and electric windows not working

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riz325

New Member
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62
Hi all

just took my 2.5 dse range rover to a local independent land rover specialist who had it for a few days to have the EAS and electric windows and mirrors calibrated after new engine fitted the guy tried but couldnt do it so he checked all the fuses all fine he then checked the relays all fine checked the compressor on the EAS and that was fine but he couldnt get it going after hours he said it might be a fault with the wiring on the passenger side a post told him everything was working fine before the engine went in and the mechanic who put engine in said he didnt touch the wiring just took out engine fitted the the new one and plugged everything in that was connected to the engine

so thinking what to do next shall i take it into to dealers and let them rip me apart or take to auto electrician drives perfect all other electrics stereo alarm lights heaters instrument panel are working fine
 
i would buy a multi meter and go check the power to the eas pump, i assume the car is on the bump stops?

there is a way to run the pump manually so i would also try that( dunno what method is but someone will be along to tell you)

also check windows with multi meter.

i dont think the two are related and the windows switch pack is known to fail!

if they are a result of the engine bieng changed then i would assume there is a plug off or on the wrong connection or a wire that has been damaged possibly over on the paasenger side of the car??
 
cheers pal

i hate electrics cant stand them mate but going to give it a try sometime on the weekend my mate has a snapon probe that checks for currents hope that is what i need
 
hi all

just wanted to know if somebody could tell me how to put the suspension up manually as the independent land rover guy put air in to the system but it has all come out and its back on the bump stops

cheers

Mo
 
You can run the pump manually by removing RL20 from the fuse box and shorting across the correct pins. Look at the diagram on the relay case to see which pins are the switch contacts - short them and you will hear the pump start. Be careful not to short the wrong ones or you'll blow a fuse or worse.

The compressor won't cut out using this method, so make sure to let the vehicle self-level, and remove the shorting wire before it over-pressures.

Jock
 
hi mate had exactly the same problem with my p38, spent 2 weeks checking and rechecking everything finnaly found out what the problem was, take the trim that runs along the bottem of the where the door shuts on the passenger side and you will see the wiring loom that goes in to the eas ecu, untape all the loom along there and trace and check al;l the wires, mine had a break in the wire when under load but was ok when checking continuity, only way i founbd it was because there was a slight tinge of grren arond the wire and when pulled it broke in 2, re soldered the wire and hey presto everything worked fine. good luck mate.
 
havent checked yet mate my clutch relase fork went so its in the garage getting sorted will do it once it gets out
 
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