EAS (again!)

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Grrrrrr

Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
Posts
19,893
Location
Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
1995 Range Rover P38 2.5DT.

Took the Rangie out today and the EAS issue has resurfaced. Has to use the emergency inflator kit everytime I stopped. Couple of questions:

1) it only seems to fill the bags with all doors shut. Guess that makes sense?

2) Constant clicking from inside the valve block area as if it is trying to dump all air back to get back to Access height. Checked it was set to standard. Any ideas why this should be? Thinks pressure drop on 1 and so dropping all?

3) Is there a way to disable the EAS so I can elimate that from my checks? There's an outstation or something under the passenger seat. If I unplug that will I be able to inflate using the emergency inflator kit or will break something?

Valve block o-ring replacement kit ordered so I'll give it a good going over soon. Just wonder if I can keep it running for a few weeks until I get around to it.

Cheers,

J
 
1995 Range Rover P38 2.5DT.

Took the Rangie out today and the EAS issue has resurfaced. Has to use the emergency inflator kit everytime I stopped. Couple of questions:

1) it only seems to fill the bags with all doors shut. Guess that makes sense?

2) Constant clicking from inside the valve block area as if it is trying to dump all air back to get back to Access height. Checked it was set to standard. Any ideas why this should be? Thinks pressure drop on 1 and so dropping all?

3) Is there a way to disable the EAS so I can elimate that from my checks? There's an outstation or something under the passenger seat. If I unplug that will I be able to inflate using the emergency inflator kit or will break something?

Valve block o-ring replacement kit ordered so I'll give it a good going over soon. Just wonder if I can keep it running for a few weeks until I get around to it.

Cheers,

J

1) EAS is locked with doors open.

2)Clicking in the EAS box means it's trying to level, raise or lower the car, it does not meant it's trying to dump air to get to access position unless that is what you have asked for. One leaky airbag will cause all 4 corners to drop unless the leak is so severe that the EAS can't keep up with it.

3) you can freeze the EAS by removing the timer relay under the passenger seat. You can then fit manual inflation valves. My preference is to remove the pipes from the valve block and plug them into valves, if you "T" valves into the pipes and there is a leak in the valve block it will still go down, it will of course also go gown on any corner where the airbag or pipework is leaking.:)
 
Thanks.

Good idea about the "T"s. I'll pull them out and put them in direct and see if that improves matters.

The car came with the emergency kit fitted. Actually, come to think about it I think it was you who advised me to remove it. Anyway, I think whoever fitted it scuffed it one of the o-rings in the valve block (bottom nearest the front of the car) and that's what is leaking. Only slight but enough to cock things up.

When I reconnected the valves and initially touched a valve stem and I swear some moisture blew out. I take it this would be a bad sign? Or maybe it was in the metal valve itself. It has been darn cold here of late.

J
 
Thanks.

Good idea about the "T"s. I'll pull them out and put them in direct and see if that improves matters.

The car came with the emergency kit fitted. Actually, come to think about it I think it was you who advised me to remove it. Anyway, I think whoever fitted it scuffed it one of the o-rings in the valve block (bottom nearest the front of the car) and that's what is leaking. Only slight but enough to cock things up.

When I reconnected the valves and initially touched a valve stem and I swear some moisture blew out. I take it this would be a bad sign? Or maybe it was in the metal valve itself. It has been darn cold here of late.

J

Easy fix to replace the o rings. Should do it as soon as you can - don't want to fook up the compressor piston seal or motor.
 
I'm going to do the compressor piston seal at the same time. Already done the airbags so hopefully the system will be OK for another few years.

Just had a look and unfortunately I cannot tie straight into the inflator kit valves. I guess I could try to find some straight connectors on e-bay and replace the "T" connectors with straight connectors. Never mind, kits should be here by next weekend and I'll do the lot, clean all plug connections and hope that's it!

J
 
The manual inflation valves have been fitted for a reason. Possibly because the previous owner had an EAS fault he did not know how to fix. Find the problem, fix it.
 
Yes, sure you're right. I replaced the old airbags. Wasn't sure they needed replacing but was glad I did it when I got them out.

When I bought the car I was told it had a new compressor. When I had it out a few weeks back it didn't look like it only had 6 months use. Was well worn, both the brushes and the piston seal.

I've got the day off tomorrow. Going to pull the valve block apart and the compressor and refurb both. So, that'll be air-springs, compressor and valve block all done. If I still have any issues you'll be the first to know. :rolleyes:

Cheers,

J
 
Yes, sure you're right. I replaced the old airbags. Wasn't sure they needed replacing but was glad I did it when I got them out.

When I bought the car I was told it had a new compressor. When I had it out a few weeks back it didn't look like it only had 6 months use. Was well worn, both the brushes and the piston seal.

I've got the day off tomorrow. Going to pull the valve block apart and the compressor and refurb both. So, that'll be air-springs, compressor and valve block all done. If I still have any issues you'll be the first to know. :rolleyes:

Cheers,

J
Fit a new air dryer while you are at it.
 
OK chaps. Still got issues. A little recap.

Compressor doesn't seem to want to come on although it can be forced on using Nanocom. Cannot get to extended ride-height either. So, this points at a leak.

Aibags were replaced a month, maybe 2 months ago now I think about it. All was fine after that until about 2 weeks ago.

Today I replaced all o-rings within the valve-block (apart from the exhaust diagphram which wasn't int he set) and also the teflon one on the compressor piston and the cylinder within the compressor too. It is certainly tighter than the old one and when I forced it on with the Nancom the car eventually came up to standard ride-height. Cannot seem to set it to extended while in the "Outputs" screen on the Nanocom.

I tried getting her to extended ride-height but no joy. Compressor won't come on. Weird thing is the compressor thermal switch was showing as HOT. How can it be when it had just been refitted? Anyway, then something stranger happened. As I was flicking between menus on the Nanocom (outputs to Inputs) the thermal switch went to NORMAL and the compressor started working as usual! This happened twice during the evening. Still cannot get to extended ride-height though.

I suspect I have a leak somewhere so I've parked her on stadard-ride height, yanked out the EAS timer relay and I'll see if any corner is down tomorrow. The airbags were from Island 4x4 and I remember someone else saying they'd has a duff one from there. I won't be happy if that is the case and it has half-shafted my compressor.

Also, where is the mysterious thermal switch in the compressor? Could that be acting up?

Thoughts?

Cheers,

J
 
Sorry , just about to give you 2 things to check:
1) the o ring in the pump - make sure it isnt holding the valve off, when I did mine the Pump had poor output and this was due to the o ring not seating due to old ' glue' in the groove.
2) Check the purple wire in the multi connector ( thin one ) to Pump, our pump would just stop, turned out to be this connection in the multiplug was loose.
TBH I think that if the car won't go into extended due to a leak you'd hear it. Probably a height sensor issue / duff switch / ecu fault? If you want to send me your email, I've got an ECU you could borrow to try?
I fitted 4 Island airbags and they were just fine.
 
OK chaps. Still got issues. A little recap.

Compressor doesn't seem to want to come on although it can be forced on using Nanocom. Cannot get to extended ride-height either. So, this points at a leak.

Aibags were replaced a month, maybe 2 months ago now I think about it. All was fine after that until about 2 weeks ago.

Today I replaced all o-rings within the valve-block (apart from the exhaust diagphram which wasn't int he set) and also the teflon one on the compressor piston and the cylinder within the compressor too. It is certainly tighter than the old one and when I forced it on with the Nancom the car eventually came up to standard ride-height. Cannot seem to set it to extended while in the "Outputs" screen on the Nanocom.

I tried getting her to extended ride-height but no joy. Compressor won't come on. Weird thing is the compressor thermal switch was showing as HOT. How can it be when it had just been refitted? Anyway, then something stranger happened. As I was flicking between menus on the Nanocom (outputs to Inputs) the thermal switch went to NORMAL and the compressor started working as usual! This happened twice during the evening. Still cannot get to extended ride-height though.

I suspect I have a leak somewhere so I've parked her on stadard-ride height, yanked out the EAS timer relay and I'll see if any corner is down tomorrow. The airbags were from Island 4x4 and I remember someone else saying they'd has a duff one from there. I won't be happy if that is the case and it has half-shafted my compressor.

Also, where is the mysterious thermal switch in the compressor? Could that be acting up?

Thoughts?

Cheers,

J

Thermal switch is riveted and soldered to brush holder circuit board.
 
OK. Thanks chaps.

Tonight's update: got out this morning and back had dropped completely and the front a tiny bit. So, definitely losing air at at the back somewhere. Had a play earlier and compressor worked perfectly! Took a while but made its way up to extended ride height. Checked exhaust vale exit. No air coming from that with comrpessor on or off. I had a good spray with soapy water all over the rear air bags and the collars where the air-lines go in but no bubbles visible. I guess it could have a leak on some part I cannot see? Left it up on extended ride-height and locked up with timer relay removed. A few hours later and the back is down but the front still up. So, it must be a leak! But where from? I gave up searching as it started to chuck it down but if there's a dry spell tomorrow I'll have another look. I'm a bit cautious about going under it given I know how dodgy the suspension is, even with a couple of axle stands!

I think the key is to find and fix the chuffing leak and then reassess but I'm running out of places to look short of pulling the bags out and checking in the open.

Is it weird that both the back bags are going down? (Although the rear drivers side seems to be the one struggling most according to the Nanocom.)
 
Forthbridge, I checked the contacts in the connectors were all good but I'll go back and check if the purple wire might be loose. Sure something must be for it to work today and not yesterday.
 
Thanks Kevwill. Sun's out (I'd forgotten what it looks like) so going to take the rear bags off now and attach them directly to my air inflator in a bucket!

Here goes ...
 
Thanks Kevwill. Sun's out (I'd forgotten what it looks like) so going to take the rear bags off now and attach them directly to my air inflator in a bucket!

Here goes ...

You are going to get a bang as the tubes blow off. Even at very low pressure. Put your fingers in your ears and watch closely where the piston flies to. It maybe under your chin in which case you will find it easily when you wake up.
 
You are going to get a bang as the tubes blow off. Even at very low pressure. Put your fingers in your ears and watch closely where the piston flies to. It maybe under your chin in which case you will find it easily when you wake up.

:)

Don't worry. Just used the little compressor I carry around for tyres. The good news is that both air-bags checked out fine. All good and held their air.

Put both rear bags back, reinflated to extended rear height and grabbed a cup of tea to see what happens. The answer?

Both rear bags are going down, although rear right seems to be leading the action. Reckon rear right has lost an inch of height in about an hour. No noises of leaks visible from valve block. This is starting to seriously mess with my head. Why both rear?

J
 
Here's an odd one.

Using the Nanocom, engine off, it says both the raise switch and lower switch are open. Sound odd?

Also, I saw the thermal switch flick between HOT and NORMAL a few times but the car hasn't even been on for an hour or so so it cannot be hot.

What the chuff is going on?! My brain hurts!
 
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