duff Clutch pedal

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gotoneatlast

gotoneatlast

New Member
Posts
3,431
Location
berkshire,uk
Ahh,
At last something to do other than play Word association..
Today on a river slipway, with rising tide my clutch failed:eek:
Pedal finally went limp after a few gear changes wear i had to pull the pedal back up with my toes under it, no resistance or spring back now.
I had none of the obvious warnings, like racing noises ,burning smell, just this 3 minute phenomenon today, Checked the cylinders, no fluid loss, or leaks.
Any ideas anyone?
Iwas gonna have a nose at the mastercylinder tommorow, but like i say i can't see any leaks.
 
`arse, master cylinder seems ok to me, moving smoothly in and out, squirted some fluid out, when i disconnected it, clean piston.
No fluid down by the slave cylinder end either.
Does this mean mechanical problem within the bellhousing?
To big a job for a doorstep DIY?
Only ever changed the clutch on a mini before. This is gonna cost innit.
 
no haven't checked that,
i was going on the green flag guys prognosis(is that the right word?) that came by yesterday.
i'll do that,
Thanks for the link Sean, money is soo tight at mo, no work, credit carding rent and tax man, the prospect of £300+ to get the local LR to do it was not a pleasing one, on top of that £50.00 to get it trucked to them.
 
Sean said:
have you undone the slave connector to make sure there's fluid getting to it ?

at least you'll have an excuse for not going shopping with the missis this weekend, and the weather forcast says it's going to be good, if you DIY it's going to cost you less than £100

Discovery clutch change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum[/QUOTE
i reckon i can handle this, i have all the relevant tools, and the time,
Sean if your passing by, what is meant by securing the front of the engine prior to the gearbox removal, i don't understand or know what to do there? And do i need to remove engine mounts?
`Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
gotoneatlast said:
Sean said:
have you undone the slave connector to make sure there's fluid getting to it ?

at least you'll have an excuse for not going shopping with the missis this weekend, and the weather forcast says it's going to be good, if you DIY it's going to cost you less than £100

Discovery clutch change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum[/QUOTE
i reckon i can handle this, i have all the relevant tools, and the time,
Sean if your passing by, what is meant by securing the front of the engine prior to the gearbox removal, i don't understand or know what to do there? And do i need to remove engine mounts?
`Thanks.
Click to expand...

when you break the GB from the engine the engine will drop nose forwards a bit as it no longer has the weight of the GB to balance it - this will make it a right arse to find the correct angle when your mating the engine/GB back after you've done the clutch

you dont need to remove the engine mounts
Click to expand...
 
Sean said:
have you undone the slave connector to make sure there's fluid getting to it ?

at least you'll have an excuse for not going shopping with the missis this weekend, and the weather forcast says it's going to be good, if you DIY it's going to cost you less than £100

Discovery clutch change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
Click to expand...

Ta, just got out of delivering christmas presents on Sunday, and she feels sorry for me!:D
 
can anyone help me with this?;
today i removed the rear propshaft, the UJ's and a splined inner shaft that join on the handbrakedrum slid out from outer shaft, as i struggled to to remove it, i have tried to reinsert it but i can't get it to slide in freely, and it seems to have jammed.
Have i knackered it, do i need to get a new rear propshaft now?

`Doh:confused: :doh:
DSC_0661.jpg
 
I've replaced this by standing the prop the other way up, so the flange is flat on a decent base. Make sure the prop is vertical and rotate it all, tapping steadily with a copper mallet just above the outer seal ... eventually it might free and drop in. I think there's an inner seal that is a bit tight and you have to coax it to fit the shaft evenly all round, hence the turning and tapping at the same time.

Have fun ... ;)
 
do you mean refitting the propshaft back on the car, or the splined part i was concerned that there may have been a correct way to sleeve it, which i've missed and thats why its' stuck now?:confused:
 
sorry i still don't understand, i marked the prop either end, and the joints on the diff and hbrake drum where they came from.
have i cocked up with the innershaft into sleeve alignment.
 
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