My DSE has just had cyl head and timing chain done. Now starts and runs fine, idles at 780rpm but no throttle response. Nanocom shows 98% throttle when pressed and 3.3V, bit nothing! Is started on full throttle will rev to about 1500rpm then straight back to idle, no throttle after that, any ideas?
P38A DSE Throttle but no revs
- Thread starter Brannigan
- Start date
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Yes the wiring seems okay. Am gonna whip the top off to see if it's all okay in there.
Good tip, thanks so much.
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
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- 20,094
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- heathrow
When the top is put back make sure the pin goes back in to the collar
if the pump was working ok before hand and has not been taken apart it should be ok
if the pump was working ok before hand and has not been taken apart it should be ok
Any help on removing the triangle bolt? Cannot source the tool here in NZ!
brianp38dse
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 20,094
- Location
- heathrow
To remove the security bolt you use a cheap 9/32 socket and give it a few hard taps, the top secton of the pump can come of with out upsetting anything its the middle section that needs marking for position on three sides
Have a look it this thread gives you a how to on taking the pump apart.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/bosch-ve-injection-pump-reseal-guide.342822/
Have a look it this thread gives you a how to on taking the pump apart.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/bosch-ve-injection-pump-reseal-guide.342822/
Thanks for that, good info!
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It sounds like the cap is out of positon on the pump.
When I did the seals on my own pump, it would not Rev with the cap too far forward or too far backwards.
Too far one way and it will chug and too far the other way it'll idle fast and have a really agressive throttle.
Finding the sweet spot is difficult but can be done by loosening the bolts on the second lower cap just enough to tap the cap on the direction needed. You can do this with the inlet manifold off and running. Just have someone at the ignition key to kill it if it gets a little worrying. For the odd bolt, just get a normal bolt and run a nut up under the head and round the nut off on a bench grinder after tightening it. Then fit a small washer, it should be about 3-4mm shorter than the original as it won't need the little nose on the bolt like the original. Measure the bolt length via the thread length and not the entire bolt length. The static timing should be checked also if there is any doubt.
When I did the seals on my own pump, it would not Rev with the cap too far forward or too far backwards.
Too far one way and it will chug and too far the other way it'll idle fast and have a really agressive throttle.
Finding the sweet spot is difficult but can be done by loosening the bolts on the second lower cap just enough to tap the cap on the direction needed. You can do this with the inlet manifold off and running. Just have someone at the ignition key to kill it if it gets a little worrying. For the odd bolt, just get a normal bolt and run a nut up under the head and round the nut off on a bench grinder after tightening it. Then fit a small washer, it should be about 3-4mm shorter than the original as it won't need the little nose on the bolt like the original. Measure the bolt length via the thread length and not the entire bolt length. The static timing should be checked also if there is any doubt.
It sounds like the cap is out of positon on the pump.
When I did the seals on my own pump, it would not Rev with the cap too far forward or too far backwards.
Too far one way and it will chug and too far the other way it'll idle fast and have a really agressive throttle.
Finding the sweet spot is difficult but can be done by loosening the bolts on the second lower cap just enough to tap the cap on the direction needed. You can do this with the inlet manifold off and running. Just have someone at the ignition key to kill it if it gets a little worrying. For the odd bolt, just get a normal bolt and run a nut up under the head and round the nut off on a bench grinder after tightening it. Then fit a small washer, it should be about 3-4mm shorter than the original as it won't need the little nose on the bolt like the original. Measure the bolt length via the thread length and not the entire bolt length. The static timing should be checked also if there is any doubt.
Thanks so much.
Have already modified both triangle bolts now, used a dremmel and put a screwdriver slot in each, works well.
Moving the plate did what you said, it seems to be idling smoother/cleaner but it still won't rev after backing the throttle off, it will on startup if I start it on +50% throttle but as soon revs drop below 1000/1100 there is no throttle response, I mean NOTHING, weird......
Have already modified both triangle bolts now, used a dremmel and put a screwdriver slot in each, works well.
Moving the plate did what you said, it seems to be idling smoother/cleaner but it still won't rev after backing the throttle off, it will on startup if I start it on +50% throttle but as soon revs drop below 1000/1100 there is no throttle response, I mean NOTHING, weird......
