Drop arm misery

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trax said:
20 quid for a bold and some washers.... you sir are maaaaaaaaad.

punch and hammer does me ;)
Click to expand...

Not mad -- Maybe stupid, However, I did not buy it because of the same reasons as you. A bolt and a few washers! For 20 quid, No thanks. Hence why I made my own. Its still in my tool box, ready for next time. Luckily, when I was younger it was hard to get hold of nuts bolt and washers so I used to keep them from old bikes and cars in a pot. Been more that handy more than a few times. :)
I only put it here as some people like all the gizmo stuff and I don't know how practical you are. Me, I like to make a tool up for free if I can. I do however admit to buying a two legged puller for the drop arm. Oh, and I'm looking at a angle protractor thing for my head gasket job on me 300Tdi only £3.50.
Still can't decide weather I need it or not. 60 and 20 degrees doesn't appear to be that easy to see and do. :p

I've looked at the drop arm conversion and really don't see whats wrong with the original set up. I don't think the drop arm ball joint is hard to do as I'm sure you are the same. I don't like the look of the two exhaust clamp things to hold the steering damper on. Could they slide or is there a groove in the arm to stop that?

Oh well - Rant over
Happy Easter everyone

James
 
currymunster said:
Not mad -- Maybe stupid, However, I did not buy it because of the same reasons as you. A bolt and a few washers! For 20 quid, No thanks. Hence why I made my own. Its still in my tool box, ready for next time. Luckily, when I was younger it was hard to get hold of nuts bolt and washers so I used to keep them from old bikes and cars in a pot. Been more that handy more than a few times. :)
I only put it here as some people like all the gizmo stuff and I don't know how practical you are. Me, I like to make a tool up for free if I can. I do however admit to buying a two legged puller for the drop arm. Oh, and I'm looking at a angle protractor thing for my head gasket job on me 300Tdi only £3.50.
Still can't decide weather I need it or not. 60 and 20 degrees doesn't appear to be that easy to see and do. :p

I've looked at the drop arm conversion and really don't see whats wrong with the original set up. I don't think the drop arm ball joint is hard to do as I'm sure you are the same. I don't like the look of the two exhaust clamp things to hold the steering damper on. Could they slide or is there a groove in the arm to stop that?

Oh well - Rant over
Happy Easter everyone

James
Click to expand...

Just playing with you :)

I couldn't get my drop arm off and I've got a few big pullers. So I do it with it still attached... and I hate it ;) Plus with the casted lip lip gone for the boot, that sucker is getting nuked.

Yeah they use clamps for the damper, they seem to hold pretty well.

I love tools, more the better! I've ran out of shed space for more :(

(Btw, some people use the bolt sides for doing angles.)
 
trax said:
Just playing with you :)

I couldn't get my drop arm off and I've got a few big pullers. So I do it with it still attached... and I hate it ;) Plus with the casted lip lip gone for the boot, that sucker is getting nuked.

Yeah they use clamps for the damper, they seem to hold pretty well.

I love tools, more the better! I've ran out of shed space for more :(

(Btw, some people use the bolt sides for doing angles.)
Click to expand...

Yeah - I did mine attached then a year later the steering box started leaking so the drop arm had to come off. I had great success with mine. I undid the nut a few turns then put the puller on and did up fairly tight but not too tight.
Then a very long straight bar. Almost a long drift. Down through the bonnet onto the back of the arm and hit the bar with the biggest hammer you've got(bet there's one of those in your shed)
Fixed the leak with no probs with a new seal !!

I love tools too - Like you I've run out of space too but I'm a plasterer too so I've got a bunch of those tools too.

The flats seemed like a good idea as each one is 60 degrees but then I thought, hell you cant see them when the socket is on and also the last angle for the 300Tdi is 20 and That seems a bit too much like guess work on the flat of a nut/bolt head.

James
 
quick update

Got the stuff delivered today. Couldn't find a 34mm socket, so stuck an adjustable spanner on the droparm nut and created some leverage with a scaffolding pole, off she came.

placed a 2 legged puller on the droparm, but it's only a SP 8 tonner. So I've left it with pressure on and soaked in plusgas, with the hope that sometime over the night it will pop..
 
currymunster said:
Shame - Hope you put some copper grease on the splines for ease of removal next time or did you go for the disco drop arm??
Click to expand...

disco one. i got a sumo kit in the end. It came with a britpart arm, with off center holes and everything ;) Looks like it will do though. Oh yes, plenty of copper grease on everything :)
 
trax said:
All done, had to grind the old drop arm off. :)
Click to expand...
Make yerself one of these! ;) :)

plr001_zps32ceaca1.jpg
 
Turboman said:
Make yerself one of these! ;) :)

plr001_zps32ceaca1.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks very good!

however I had a sykes pickavant 8ton hydraulic (awesome shed find) on it and it didn't even budge. Anyway, all done now.

Have to do the squeky prop ujs ,handbrake and the outputseal that is making it nice and oily next ;)

Fun now winter is over and the jobs begin! :cool:
 
Did you give it a few whacks with a very long drift through the engine compartment onto the heel or back of the arm while the puller is on and tight?
Usually does the trick
 
currymunster said:
Did you give it a few whacks with a very long drift through the engine compartment onto the heel or back of the arm while the puller is on and tight?
Usually does the trick
Click to expand...

I did, used bit of thick steel pipe. tried large hammers on both sides too. also drove around the fields a bit with the nut loose to try and loosen it up. :)
 
Hey @trax and @Dads toy I am trying to do the same and I figured I can buy NTC8390 (£18) + NTC9235 (£32LHD) on paddock and get from GL the Track Rod Ends (£8 each) + Damper mount (£21.60)...that would save me about 50 quid - since I would be using my Landy only for Africa overland trips (both on/off road) rather than hard-core off-road would the sumo-bar give benefits to justify the additional expense? taking into account I am not changing any other bar...

I will buy it tonight so your input would be greatly appreciated :D

Thanks!
 
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