Driving lights problem

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New Member

Posts

88

Location

Thame, Oxfordshire

• May 28, 2008

• #1

Wonder if someone can help me with this?

I have a 2006 TD4 Freelander with a set of the pod-style driving lamps fiited by the dealer which work only through the main beam as designed. Yesterday I fitted a new set of H3 bulbs to the lamps ( a real pain as the light has to be almost totally dismantled to do this!). I tested each each light in turn when fitted (anal as ever...) and the first one was fine, next one failed to work as did the other new one. All connections seemed o.k. so i re-fitted the old bulbs and sure enough bu**er all worked! Despite trawling through the Rave CD I can't fine out where the damned things are fused from, all other lights and electics work fine.

anyone have any good ideas?

ta,


Steve

 

D

Dutch RR

New Member

Posts

89

• May 28, 2008

• #2

What are you saying here Steve, do you mean that the original bulbs work OK in place, if so its not fuses you should be looking at, its the replacment bulbs you got, how many connector studs are on the replacment bulbs (silver connections) two or three

Cheers Dutch RR

 

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New Member

Posts

88

Location

Thame, Oxfordshire

• May 28, 2008

• #3

Dutch RR said:

What are you saying here Steve, do you mean that the original bulbs work OK in place, if so its not fuses you should be looking at, its the replacment bulbs you got, how many connector studs are on the replacment bulbs (silver connections) two or three

Cheers Dutch RR

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No sadly none of the bulbs, old or new now work. This is what leads me to suspect it's a fuse or current supply problem...

Steve

 

D

Dutch RR

New Member

Posts

89

• May 28, 2008

• #4

Hello Steve, You say you have the RAVE CD look at owners handbook, pages 179 and 180, lists the location of all fuses and what they feed, I know yours is a latter car but you should be able to do the same with the handbook you got with the car, may be worth your while spending about 15 Euro on a cheep test meter from one of the many places like B and Q, you will be able to test the bulbs, if voltage is present at the connector, and if your fuse is intact.

Cheers Dutch RR

 

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New Member

Posts

88

Location

Thame, Oxfordshire

• May 28, 2008

• #5

Hi Dutch,

I'm afraid I've looked at all of the fuse diagrams in both the RAVE CD and the vehicle handbook, none of them show which fuse feeds the dealer fit driving lights. Not keen on buying a test meter before a simple fuse check but I do get your point.

Anyone else have any good ideas please?

S

 

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New Member

Posts

88

Location

Thame, Oxfordshire

• May 29, 2008

• #6

All sorted I'm pleased to say. In-line 15A fuse had blown which was well hidden away below the light relay. Will uprate the fuse to a 20A to take the new 130 Watt rally bulbs methinks!

cheers,

Steve

 

stownrow

New Member

Posts

199

Location

Essex

• Jun 3, 2008

• #7

synapse said:

All sorted I'm pleased to say. In-line 15A fuse had blown which was well hidden away below the light relay. Will uprate the fuse to a 20A to take the new 130 Watt rally bulbs methinks!

cheers,

Steve

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Hi Steve! Glad to hear it’s all sorted!

Will the wires take 130w bulbs???


Steve.

 

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New Member

Posts

88

Location

Thame, Oxfordshire

• Jun 3, 2008

• #8

stownrow said:

Hi Steve! Glad to hear it’s all sorted!

Will the wires take 130w bulbs???


Steve.

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Hiya,

the wiring is rated at 30A and 200 watts according to the Land Rover info I've looked at, so should be o.k. (famous last words of course........!) So far so good but probably will have to sell the car anyway and buy a boat given the weather here in Oxfordshire over the past couple of days..

good to here from you,

Steve