Drivetrain Problems a little advise please

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
S

Spoonofinsanity

Member
Posts
67
Hi guys got a freelander that was clonking massively on full lock forward or reverse. Its a a 2005 td4 with 73,000 on the clock so due for a viscous coupling by all accounts.

The car has very worn tyres on the rear close to legal limit different make to the front with has one year old tyres :(
Kwik fit job they fitted new tyres (to the front) and told the owners it would be fine. Well good old kwik fit didn't do the tracking now have bald inner edges and almost 8mm tread on the outer edge.

I did as hippo suggests in many threads and jacked up the front axle and spun the wheels first of all only one wheel moved then it did as expected and opposite wheel spun in the opposite direction.
So moved to the rear axle and wheel spun in opposite direction as expected.
Jacked up drivers side and spun a wheel and the other moved.

So i removed the prop to see if the clonking and banging stopped.
The car now drives without a massive banging/clonking but taps whilst driving.

Can i safely say the ird has been bushed by the overdue vcu?

Any help greatly appreciated
 
VCU has stiffened, caused by incorrect tyre placement. (New on the front)
The IRD is now duff along with the VCU and possibly the rear diff as well. Why don't owners read the owners hand book.
 
Last edited:
Tyres were the first thing I noticed when I had a look.
So you think the ird is dead for sure then.
I'm worried about the tapping noise when driving with no prop couldn't isolate whether it was front or rear when driving but had the windows up as it was persisting with rain :)
What damage is caused to the rear diff when the vcu fails been searching but not found a diffinitive answer yet.
Thanks
 
Yes does sound slam dunk problems with tyres causing stuffed VCU causing stuffed IRD.

If you haven't already, check the threads for recommended, and UNRECOMMENDED suppliers for the parts.
 
im not 100% sure

but im under the inpresstion that it course the dif to go on melt down ,norm builds up preasure in dif which in turns blows the oil in the dif out either the breather pipe or courses the gasket to leak ,which in turn makes the coges inside heat up and totaly fu.ks all the dif inside

im sure someone will correct me but thats my understanding of it so far from what ive seen on the forum ,but ive only been a member and owned a freelander for approx 3 weeks

as for the knocking noise ,once i removed my prop the noise from the back was horrible ,after looking it turned out to be the dif bushes where fuc.ed ,cheap and easy to fix
 
The answer is out there, old chap. I wish you well in your endeavours with your new Freelander. They are wonderful machines and well worth the investment. Of which there may well be a lot.


Is that OK Blue Beasty?
 
Spoonofinsanity said:
What damage is caused to the rear diff when the vcu fails been searching but not found a diffinitive answer yet.
Thanks
Click to expand...

They're both boxes of gears and bearings and will both be under the same stresses - so I suppose the same things happen - bearings ground down to pulp and teeth broken off gears. The IRD does appear a lot more suseptible to going though, leaving the diff servicable.

Haven't got much experience of the diff - but I imagine a good test, with the props off, would be to wiggle the input drive to see if its loose at all - indicating its bearing is shot.

With the prop off, you can lift 1 wheel and spin it - you might get some clicking from the diff indicating teeth gone - although that's just a guess!
 
Thanks for all the replies people just to make it clear this isn't my freelander I would only play with real landys usually (I've got a 110 and a 90 and fancy a disco 1 as well but no freelanders :) )

The rear diff doesn't seem that bad no huge back lash and everything seems to spin freely. Think i'm gonna drop the oils tomorrow to check for metal content and check the rear diff bushes.

So its gonna need new bearings, vcu and most likely a ird as well - pricy

Thanks again
 
Anyone got any recommendations for new tyres for this hippo it has 18's on a mix of Dunlop and accelera's at the moment. Muchos gracias
 
Spoonofinsanity said:
Anyone got any recommendations for new tyres for this hippo it has 18's on a mix of Dunlop and accelera's at the moment. Muchos gracias
Click to expand...

4 the same is a good start!! ;)
There are very few AT tyres in that size. Best you can afford would be a good starting point.
 
hi guys cheers for the help again.
Been on to bell engineering this morning and he is only supplying vcu's with a 2 week lead time he recommended i call freelanderspecialist.com does anyone concur with this are they ok?

Got prices for tyres this morning
accelera - £80 a piece
scorpions - £145
Continental - £200
aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh
Had another dig around diff bushes check out ok :)

So decided after watching a few videos on the tube to pull the pinion off the ird and found a nice chunk of tooth wedged in the crown wheel and bits everywhere - found the clicking noise then :(
Rear diff seems ok breather is clean but does have a leaky n/s shaft seal.
So shopping list at the moment is 4 tyres, vcu and bearings, ird and a shaft seal definately gonna keep me busy :)
 
Aint freelander...... The ones that got slated?

Search on here. - name has come of plenty of times before.


As a matter of priority .....

1) remove prop and vcu.
2) replace IRD
3) replace tyres
4) replace VCU & bearings.

If VCU is removed & yu aren't running in 4wd, tyres won't be a problem.
 
Spoonofinsanity said:
hi guys cheers for the help again.
Been on to bell engineering this morning and he is only supplying vcu's with a 2 week lead time he recommended i call freelanderspecialist.com does anyone concur with this are they ok?

Got prices for tyres this morning
accelera - £80 a piece
scorpions - £145
Continental - £200
aaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhh
Had another dig around diff bushes check out ok :)

So decided after watching a few videos on the tube to pull the pinion off the ird and found a nice chunk of tooth wedged in the crown wheel and bits everywhere - found the clicking noise then :(
Rear diff seems ok breather is clean but does have a leaky n/s shaft seal.
So shopping list at the moment is 4 tyres, vcu and bearings, ird and a shaft seal definately gonna keep me busy :)
Click to expand...

You look to have done your homework and testing spot-on for this. :cool:

Think FreelanderSpecialists are OK - its the FreelanderIrdSpecialists you need to steer clear of.

I'm a novice grease monkey really and my only concern when removing/fitting the IRD was how easy it all went - I just unbolted it, lowered it, then raised it and bolted it back on - there weren't even any bolts that were difficult to access or get off - just lots of them.

I was working from an inspection pit though and it made the job so much much easier than axle stands.

Make sure you have lots of different length extension bars for your socket set to - you'll have the rachet up, down, left, right, in the wheel arch, in front og the subframe, behind it - all over the place. Beg steal and borrow them if you have to before you start. An extension bar for the rachet handle will help start some of the bolts as well - some of them had a 'narrow' swing on the ratchet with the extension on, but they all managed that first click OK.

Mine's a L Series Diesel - On other variants the exhaust may make a nuisance of itself.

It doesn't take to long - but someone will be working long hours to pay for it.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
The answer is out there, old chap. I wish you well in your endeavours with your new Freelander. They are wonderful machines and well worth the investment. Of which there may well be a lot.


Is that OK Blue Beasty?
Click to expand...

Blimey, you turning over a new leaf for the new year..? :D

Here, have a hug on us :lvhug-035::lvbear-176::5bgrouphug:


:bolt:
 
Spacemonkey... said:
Blimey, you turning over a new leaf for the new year..? :D

Here, have a hug on us :lvhug-035::lvbear-176::5bgrouphug:


:bolt:
Click to expand...


A Mod told me I had to be polite. Accuracy and truth wasn't important, but I was to be polite to the poor Gay,erm, Freelander owners. :p.

I think it was because he felt sorry for them :eek:.
 
Right well we've pulled the ird and ordered a 2 wheel converted ird from freelancer specialist. Worst part of the job was getting under tray off lol and the top bolt closest to the block couldn't even see how to get to it until we removed a heat shield.

Pity she is gonna end up front wheel drive but it is a Chelsea tractor after all and if they wanted to keep 4 wheel drive then would have been cheaper to buy a real land rover :)
And this way this way the idiots at Kwik fit can't cause to much damage to the poor hippo :)
Last shopping list was fwd ird, 4 accelera's a drive shaft seal and all the oils.

Have to say I haven't seen gear oil that looked like diesel engine oil after 15000 miles before - must be part of the reason for the epic fail.
Thanks everyone for the help
 
lheeler90 said:
I'm going to check the ecu supplies
22.jpg
Click to expand...

Why? are we running out?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
Freelander 1 Rapid tyre and brake wear
Replies
16
Views
1K
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel
C
Freelander 2 (LR2) Rear Diff Rumble / Judder Just Started
Replies
6
Views
870
CaptainB
C
Padda.116
D2 Transfer Box exploded?
Replies
11
Views
998
MJI
MJI
pwood999
Freelander 1 Drivetrain knock when turning
Replies
3
Views
777
andyfreelandy
andyfreelandy
H
Diso1 Diff lock how it works
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
marjon
marjon
Back
Top