Drivers door lock Q.

Hello everyone. It’s time I dug my 4.6 P38 out of storage. I know I have a problem with the lock code mechanism. Here’s the story. I foolishly let the battery run down to zip. Anyway put a new battery on and had to use the lockout code to renter the vehicle. Here’s where it went wrong. The micro switches in the lock did not work hence it wouldn’t accept the lockout code. Managed to get the car open and took the handle of. That was 2 years ago and have since misplaced the handle. I need to know the best way to remedy the problem. Without the immobiler operable she starts and runs fine. It’s a bit of a devil driving with a bunny cord keeping the door shut. Can I fit a second hand handle or should I get a new handle and get the garage to fit and sort the immobiler out. ta
Terry

Maybe don't worry about the immobilizer unless your area is bad. Replace the handle with what you like new or used, whichever is the best economical answer for you.
Only go near the immobilizer if you have someone on hand who knows what their doing with these cars or you could end up with a 2.25t p38 life-size model.

Thanks. Do you know if the immobiliser will automatically recognise another handle, new or secondhand or does it only need to recognise the lockout code. I do want the immobiliser to work correctly. It always did.
Thanks

If you can start the car with the key ragardles of a broken handle the immobilizer may be turned off already.
Can you lock the car by key or remote?

If the micro switches are broken then I would replace the latch mechanism with a new one, but the door handle itself is just a handle. Replacement of the latch inside the door doesn't require a recode or reprogram. It only sends a current to confirm the door is shut/open or locked.

Thanks. Handle and locking mechanism Are not in the door and it won’t lock on the fob. I had to break into her to get the door open but by now the battery had been removed. It was very tricky to get the mechanism out. I did break a little bit of the lock whilst removing it.

So the latch inside the door is out aswell? The immobilizer must not be on then. There is an early and late version of the latch that fits inside the door.

Yep. Took it all out as the lock wouldn’t recognise the 4 digit lock out number. It’s the whole assembly I need. Judging by the info I am gettin on this thread I can fit a second hand unit but I would always have 2 keys. I’m cool with that. I love the old car and she’s a keeper. Just want to sort this problem out a get her back on the road. My old V8 90 Ragtop summer car Is getting a bit chilly

She’s a 96 on a P. Any idea when the design changed. I have found a few 6 pin units. Now that you’ve said id guess this will be the later version. Thanks

Terry O Sullivan said:

She’s a 96 on a P. Any idea when the design changed. I have found a few 6 pin units. Now that you’ve said id guess this will be the later version. Thanks

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Yours should be the older type with two connectors.

Wish I could find the old one

Mgtf, we're they the same as the early or late?

If yours is a 96 on a P its the same as one of mine,the switch has two plus,one is a small multiplug and the other is a two pin unit
which has only one wire (Black) is connected.
You should be able to get a new lock on ebay,new over £250 from LR

Mark Piercy said:

Mgtf, we're they the same as the early or late?

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Early.

tomcat59alan said:

Early.

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Thanks big Al'.

Thanks I’ll get a new one. Just gotta find the feckin handle now.

Is it Martyuk who does recon door locks?
They work a treat

Yes PM @martyuk he sells refurbed latches fitted with up rated switches.

Mark Piercy said:

Thanks big Al'.

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Don't tell everyone. When I was in the trade my partner was also named Alan , he was smaller than me so that was my nickname.