Datatek
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The latch is easy to take apart, you may find a stripped gear or it could just be the grease has gone hard. It's not a micro switch problem IMO.
P38A Driver`s door will not open and windows will not open
- Thread starter Rover9676
- Start date
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You can actually jump the door locks from the connections on the BeCM. That's how I found out my two rear doors were buggered from the swimming incident 
Hello all, working on switch pack also to get windows , mirrors and sunroof, pictures attached. Does the windows and mirrors buttons pop off? Would like to clean underneath as well. Yeah I know switch pack is Terrible!!! I had no idea it was that Grimy. One word Teenager!!
Attachments
Good evening, I opened the latch as you suggested and 2 white pieces fell out. The large one was sitting out of place and the tiny one was rattling down inside a groove, clearly broken from some aother plastic mechanism. The large one has a butterfly shape on the round portion and mate's down inside with another butterfly shape, but metal. I guess it's fair to conclude my lack h is broken internally and time to replace. Thanks for prodding me to open. Pictures attached.
Let me know what you think of the switch pack photos previously attached!
Best regards,
Jesse
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Don't throw it away. You may come across another one and be able to make a good un out of them
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I believe the MG F sports car had the same door latch or breakers yard
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- 18,970
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
If @martyuk cannot help out (he's MartyNZ on Range Rovers dot net) then Rimmer Bros over here sell them although I don't know what the price will be with import duties and shipping - they're expensive to start with. I doubt Paddock Spares or Island-4x4 do them but I might be wrong.
Have you cleared out all the white grease and reassembled?
Have you cleared out all the white grease and reassembled?
Datatek
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What's wrong with the power window console? Inoperative switches can easily be fixed.
Not sure what happened to my last reply. Good afternoon and thanks for your replies. Does anyone know what year's are the MG F door latches match 96 p38? I'm not familiar with breakers yard, is that in the UK?
I will check out MartyNZ.
Grrrrrr, when I opened the latch there was broken pieces of white plastic inside. I attached some photos in the previous post from yesterday. Also, I couldn't get the latch to release/open so I began my search today for a replacement.
I will check out MartyNZ.
Grrrrrr, when I opened the latch there was broken pieces of white plastic inside. I attached some photos in the previous post from yesterday. Also, I couldn't get the latch to release/open so I began my search today for a replacement.
Good afternoon, I cleaned the the switch pack and no luck with getting it to operate. I don't understand or know anything about electronics but willing to attempt a repair. It just seem so odd that none of the buttons work, especially when they were all working. I didn't find any broken wires. I seen in a forum post that earth grounds for the power window panels were 8007, 8008 & 8009 located on either side of the boot. I checked but didn't see anything grounded. I attached photos of my panel and it doesn't look anything like the forum or YouTube posts with a clear like plastic barrier. Can you take a look at the photos and provide some direction.
Thanks,
Jesse
Datatek
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If all the switches stopped working at the same time, it's unlikely to be a switch problem. You really need to look at it with diagnostics.
To clean the switches, you have to take the assembly apart. I may be able to find some photo's.
Oh, do you mean remove each toggle button? I lightly pull on one of them and thought it may break. So each button just prys-off?
Flossie
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There's nothing to really fix doing that. Take all the screws out until you end up with just a pcb with the switches attached. The switches are held onto the board with 6 or 7 (iirc) little plastic blobs on the opposite side. You have to cut them off to release the switch which will reveal a clear plastic sticky sheet holding little triangle contacts against tracks on the board. You have to cut and peel back just enough of the sheet to remove the triangles and clean the tracks and triangles with contact cleaner and a cotton bud and then stick the triangle back down from whence it was with sellotape. I reused the original sheet though but don't let it get dirt on the sticky side.
You then have to weld the blobs of plastic back on (if you haven't lost them or there pinged off somewhere never to be found again)using a soldering iron. I found a spare door card stud off my 110 worked as a filler to weld them back on as I lost all of my blobs cutting them off.
But....like data says, it's unlikely all switches have failed. The pcb might be fried.
It sounds daunting repairing the switches but I found it quite easy on mine and a mates. I supervised my mate doing his and he also lost the blobs of plastic cutting them off. He used a tie wrap as the filler which also worked.
Datatek
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Thanks for that Flossie, saved me the trouble
One thing, contact cleaner does not always do the job, a gentle rub with a soft pencil eraser before the contact cleaner helps.
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I'm on my phone but will look later. Breakers = scrap yard. MGF will have to be the same year.
If I can tell which plastic part you need someone might have a spare in their shed. I had some duff ones at one stage that I was saving for Marty to refurbish but I cannot remember what year they were.
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Don't forget there's three aspects to window operation. Switch-pack sends signals to BECM via digital data signals. Then BECM sends data signals to the required door outstation, which apply the power to window motors. Unless you're sure it the window pack, there could be other wiring issues.
Clearly the plastic on yours has encountered heat issues, so a second had complete pack it probably the way forward.
Nanocom is the best way to diagnose, because this verifies the BECM, Door Outstation & Window motors regardless of the switchpack.
Clearly the plastic on yours has encountered heat issues, so a second had complete pack it probably the way forward.
Nanocom is the best way to diagnose, because this verifies the BECM, Door Outstation & Window motors regardless of the switchpack.
Datatek
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he MGF lock
I don't know about the MGF lock, but any year of P38 lock can be used, just the connectors may have to be swapped over.
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As said before, it must be the version with three microswitches. The main connector will have 6 pins like these.
Brand New - check with Rimmers on postage to Michigan
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ1...-KmPdvCvOX3VuH3XGU2TpWPdokNz3BW8aAicNEALw_wcB
Or this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26397317...A5mtR_yRG-QD-eLfycjyThkSLBwNdrq4aAhBFEALw_wcB
Brand New - check with Rimmers on postage to Michigan
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FQJ1...-KmPdvCvOX3VuH3XGU2TpWPdokNz3BW8aAicNEALw_wcB
Or this one
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/26397317...A5mtR_yRG-QD-eLfycjyThkSLBwNdrq4aAhBFEALw_wcB
