Drive Member replacement

I'm currently replacing the drive member(s)?? on the landy (defender 110
300TDi 1998). The reason being the front passenger side one gave up at
the weekend. Great I've got the replacement, removed the bolts, and the
C-Clip and the shims, lots of WD 40, it moves out a bit (1/4 to 1/2")
but I just can get it past the C'clip groove. really. Any suggestions on
the best way to get it off?

Cheers
David

On or around Mon, 27 Jun 2005 20:08:08 GMT, "dht@home"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>I'm currently replacing the drive member(s)?? on the landy (defender 110
>300TDi 1998). The reason being the front passenger side one gave up at
>the weekend. Great I've got the replacement, removed the bolts, and the
>C-Clip and the shims, lots of WD 40, it moves out a bit (1/4 to 1/2")
>but I just can get it past the C'clip groove. really. Any suggestions on
> the best way to get it off?

worn and misaligned splines? if wiggling it around and reasonable force
won't get it off, I dunno what will, really. ISTR it should just slide off,
once the clip and the shims are off it. Damaged splines could stick, I
guess. You could cut through it with a lot of care and a thin cutting disc,
either one side or more likely dametrically opposite. If you do that, then
I recommend going down *almost* to the shaft, but not risking touching the
shaft in case the shaft splines are OK - cut through mostly on opposite
sides then clout it with a big hammer and a chisel to split it. Probably
would be better to support it from underneath for the last phase.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Mon, 27 Jun 2005 20:08:08 GMT, "dht@home"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>I'm currently replacing the drive member(s)?? on the landy (defender 110
>>300TDi 1998). The reason being the front passenger side one gave up at
>>the weekend. Great I've got the replacement, removed the bolts, and the
>>C-Clip and the shims, lots of WD 40, it moves out a bit (1/4 to 1/2")
>>but I just can get it past the C'clip groove. really. Any suggestions on
>> the best way to get it off?
>
>
> worn and misaligned splines? if wiggling it around and reasonable force
> won't get it off, I dunno what will, really. ISTR it should just slide off,
> once the clip and the shims are off it. Damaged splines could stick, I
> guess. You could cut through it with a lot of care and a thin cutting disc,
> either one side or more likely dametrically opposite. If you do that, then
> I recommend going down *almost* to the shaft, but not risking touching the
> shaft in case the shaft splines are OK - cut through mostly on opposite
> sides then clout it with a big hammer and a chisel to split it. Probably
> would be better to support it from underneath for the last phase.
>

Burrs on the C clip groove ? Try a piece of emery cloth to deburr the shaft.

Steve

I got it off in the end... yeah... no splines left on the shaft...
boo... Oh well. Me thinks that all the drive members and their attached
shafts are going to need replacing to solve this little problem...
Still got a near vertical learning curve about the vehicle. Its amazing
what you learn. This was the problem with the last no go situation!

Thanks for the help... Now any idea how much the shafts cost, my
mechanic friend suggests that it could be upto £160 a side...
bugger...

On or around 28 Jun 2005 10:42:52 -0700, "Dave" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>I got it off in the end... yeah... no splines left on the shaft...
>boo... Oh well. Me thinks that all the drive members and their attached
>shafts are going to need replacing to solve this little problem...
>Still got a near vertical learning curve about the vehicle. Its amazing
>what you learn. This was the problem with the last no go situation!
>
>Thanks for the help... Now any idea how much the shafts cost, my
>mechanic friend suggests that it could be upto £160 a side...
>bugger...

part of the CV joint, ain't it?

<fx: looks at book>

yeah, 'tis. Get 'em from Paddocks, while they're cheap - 25 quid a shot
last I looked, and not bad gear.

make sure you get the right number of splines: read the axle number off the
casing or pull one out and count the splines on the inside of the CVJ. Not
a hard job, no need to split the swivels or anything, ISTR.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

In message <[email protected]>
"Dave" <[email protected]> wrote:

> I got it off in the end... yeah... no splines left on the shaft...
> boo... Oh well. Me thinks that all the drive members and their attached
> shafts are going to need replacing to solve this little problem...
> Still got a near vertical learning curve about the vehicle. Its amazing
> what you learn. This was the problem with the last no go situation!
>
> Thanks for the help... Now any idea how much the shafts cost, my
> mechanic friend suggests that it could be upto £160 a side...
> bugger...
>

cough! Nearer £30.00 for rears, £45 for the front (those are actualy
the CV joints on most vehicles except early Discovery I and Range
Rover Classic). £6 or 8 for the dive flanges.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

On or around Wed, 29 Jun 2005 07:44:10 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:


>
>cough! Nearer £30.00 for rears, £45 for the front (those are actualy
>the CV joints on most vehicles except early Discovery I and Range
>Rover Classic). £6 or 8 for the dive flanges.

are your 45-quid CVJs better quality than Paddocks elcheapos? The verdict
I've heard on the cheap ones from Paddock is along the lines of "they're OK
for 25 quid" - in other words, not the best quality. But then again, you
can buy a fair few 25-quid ones for the amount LR want for a genuine part.

Idle interest, natch. I'm just plotting to get rid of all the discos...

In due course (a month or so) we may be looking at selling a '95 300 TDi.
Nice though it is, it's expensive to run for the amount of space inside, and
is not really being used to full capacity. Such things as the Citroen
Berlingo have as muhc interior space, considerably better fuel consumption
and if you get the one with the HDi engine, only cost 135 a year in road
tax.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

In message <[email protected]>
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> wrote:

> On or around Wed, 29 Jun 2005 07:44:10 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
> >
> >cough! Nearer £30.00 for rears, £45 for the front (those are actualy
> >the CV joints on most vehicles except early Discovery I and Range
> >Rover Classic). £6 or 8 for the dive flanges.
>
> are your 45-quid CVJs better quality than Paddocks elcheapos? The verdict
> I've heard on the cheap ones from Paddock is along the lines of "they're OK
> for 25 quid" - in other words, not the best quality. But then again, you
> can buy a fair few 25-quid ones for the amount LR want for a genuine part.
>
> Idle interest, natch. I'm just plotting to get rid of all the discos...
>

<Giving away State Secrets Mode>

I would guess that Paddocks got theirs from the same place as us a
few months ago when a special offer was in place from the supplier,
presumably they had a lorry load. We ran out of ours, but the ones
that have come in since are in different packaging and we've never
had a failure.
Read into that what you will.

</Giving away State Secrets Mode>

> In due course (a month or so) we may be looking at selling a '95 300 TDi.
> Nice though it is, it's expensive to run for the amount of space inside, and
> is not really being used to full capacity. Such things as the Citroen
> Berlingo have as muhc interior space, considerably better fuel consumption
> and if you get the one with the HDi engine, only cost 135 a year in road
> tax.


Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems