P38A Dreaded EAS fault (Max 35MPH) is this going to empty my wallet ?

oakey said:

Make sure there is some air in the bag before you drop the car or you will bugger it

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I wondered about that. Is the best way to run the eas for a bit before lowering the chassis ? Or is it worth deploying the Schraeder valves ?

Its fine to run EAS for a bit but probably better to use Schraeder valves are more certain and less vibration on axle stands. Dont fill them just need them shaped

I open a doo with the engine running, drop the jack a bit, shut the door until it levels, drop the a bit, shut the door until it levels ... And repeat until jack drops away.

They can be a bit of a bar steward to get them high enough for the pin or low enough for them clips on the front ones

pete12345 said:

They can be a bit of a bar steward to get them high enough for the pin or low enough for them clips on the front ones

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I can get the bottom one in, I'm hoping if i gently inflate it and then drop it, it should seat the top properly -or is there any 'twisting' or rotating i need to do to locate it properly ?

The top only fits one way so you can connect the air pipe and push the pin through

pete12345 said:

The top only fits one way so you can connect the air pipe and push the pin through

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Well, its in the right way and the hose is connected but its a wee bit low and I can't quite get the pin.

I'm hoping the force as its lowered will raise it adequately.

awkwardbob said:

Well, its in the right way and the hose is connected but its a wee bit low and I can't quite get the pin.

I'm hoping the force as its lowered will raise it adequately.

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Check there is no rust at the top and all flat and clean. With the bag empty you can get a jack under the axle and lift it slightly. You should be able to guide the bottom in at this stage. Might need a slight twist to sit flat and get the pin in.

Grrrrrr said:

Check there is no rust at the top and all flat and clean. With the bag empty you can get a jack under the axle and lift it slightly. You should be able to guide the bottom in at this stage. Might need a slight twist to sit flat and get the pin in.

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That's exactly the way we did it. Clean top and hole sprayed a bit of copper grease and used a jack under axle. Slight twist and straight in

So all it needs is a bit of loob and shove it in

Cleaned all the top of mine with a grinder with a wire brush fitting then painted and wax oiled

brianp38dse said:

So all it needs is a bit of loob and shove it in

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Exactly

Great, well, it in but I still have a leak somewhere... likely a hole in the airline at this point so I’ll be out with my soapy spray when it’s light again !

Will need to have a look in Rave at the routing, this is for O/SR which is also where the exhaust has cracked so perhaps there’s a connection -would also explain why the leak only appeared after the exhaust cracked !

at least I’m gaining an understanding of the beastie which will hopefully pay dividends in years to come !

Oh, one more thing,
With a completely de-pressurised system, what would be a sensible procedure using EAS unlock ?

I was considering:
Running the pump for 10 mins
Reading and clearing faults
trying to make the EAS go to the pre-programmed heights (Do i need to run the engine for this ?)
Check for any major/minor leaks
Re-Callibrate system

Does that sound sensible ?

Thanks again

Bob

awkwardbob said:

Oh, one more thing,
With a completely de-pressurised system, what would be a sensible procedure using EAS unlock ?

I was considering:
Running the pump for 10 mins
Reading and clearing faults
trying to make the EAS go to the pre-programmed heights (Do i need to run the engine for this ?)
Check for any major/minor leaks
Re-Callibrate system

Does that sound sensible ?

Thanks again

Bob

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Clear any stored faults, leave the door open for 8-10 minutes to pressurise the system, them slam the door and watch her rise..... hopefully.

You need the engine running.

I would put Schraeder valve on main feed to tank and try pressurising with tyre pump then valve on OSR pipe and do same until you finf the leakinng pipe. If exhaust well buggered then could have more than one

Goid idea. I might try the individual lines one at a time to check the others. The exhaust has completely split on the rhs just as it comes out of the ‘T’ and is hanging off

doesn’t look repairable so will need to replace likely both sides (grrr).

The air lines appear to run down the rhs of the chassis, is that right ? or do they run down the middle and then break left and right ?

And, if I’m honest, I reckon I’m gonna have problems with the valve block too, but I’ve a spare and a repair kit.

The OSR and the main feed to tank run down the passenger chassis then across above the back axle in a sort of channel where you cant see the break

Great ! So this is gonna be particularly ‘fun’ without it being on a ramp !

is it that strange cowled bit above where the exhaust branches ?

You should take off the plastic inner wheel arches you can see it running across I just did all mine on axle stands the one that normally melts on the exhaust is the feed to the air tank I’ve you replace just run new line the other way across the bulkhead