Drain cleaner for inside chassis

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greenlanebasher

greenlanebasher

Active Member
Posts
175
Location
Cambridgeshire
Hi, I am looking to waxoil my defender soon but before I do I want to give the inside of the chassis a real good clean out. Has anybody ever tried using a pressure washer with a drain cleaner attachment. My plan would be to soak the inside of the chassis to soften all the mud then cut a small hole in the bottom of the chassis rail and blast the drain cleaning attachment up the chassis rail and wash all the mud back out of the hole. Let it all dry off and then waxoil it using a compressor and a spray gun then just weld the piece back in that I cut out.
Anybody ever tried this and if so, how well did it work?

Matt
 
I've just bought and used a karcher drain clearing attachment fing on waste water pipe and it's very powerful. Work a treat. Even found a weak spot in a copper pipe. So if yer chassis is held together wiv rust... :eek:
 
Can I add a cautionary note on the use of waxoil, it is flammable and if you weld the patch on the chassis the waxoil inside will burn. Is there not a drain hole on the Defender chassis allready?
 
I use one of these on the steam cleaner when we waxoyl the old VW busses. Stuff it right down the chassis and a good blast removes everything. Let it dry for a day or so in the paint booth and it is good for waxoyl.

I wouldn't attempt yours until the summer or you may seal in the water and MAKE it rot. Unless you have a heated garage or something.
 
If your going to cut a hole in the chassis fit a rubber bung in the hole and secure it with silicone. Easy to remove for next time.
 
I have a heated garage that i can park it in to ensure that it dries out well. Chassis gets cleaned off after every offroad session and stem cleaned and waxoiled every year anyway so is still reasonably solid, so that wont be a problem. I take on board what you are saying about the waxoil being flammable tho. Rubber bung will be a much better solution.

Thanks
 
I would have through blowing air through the chassis to dry it would be best. Escaping air would take moisture wiv it.
 
I'm about todo the same, i.e. use a drain cleaner attached to my pressure washer.

Where do you guys push it through, is it through the front jack supports and push it all the way to the back ?

110-ext-large.jpg
 
Last edited:
I jet washed my chassis earlier in the year,
then a few days later,
with my compressor & a shutz gun i bought for the job,
I used waxoil in shutz cans with the little plastic lead to get into built in holes in me chassis.
but before I did this, I shutzed the chassis and underneath first, letting it dry a day befor waxoiling.
you know when you have enough waxoil in, as on a hot day,
it runs out.............
 
give it a good run round on a dry day helps to dry the chassis out (easier said than done his time of year)
 
I'd rather water than mud.

So has anyone got some useful advice on how to thoroughly clean inside the chassis using a drain cleaner ? My attachment hasn't arrived yet, and my concern is it wont fit through the front jacking points. I was also thinking of using a long extension to my air gun, to disperse as much water as possible, before filling with some form of wax.
 
Theres enough holes in the chassis to get the drain cleaner in, I did just that a couple of years back used a Nilfisk one, good wash with hose for a few hours then the drain cleaner attachment for a couple of hours into every hole, in the front jacking point then where the loom goes in, pay special attention to the rear as you approach the rear Xmember the chassis hangs down and fills up there. I removed the loom 1st. Drilled out some of the drain holes, I left it a couple of days then used compressed air waited about 2-3 weeks in the summer before using Dinitrol rust converter inside chassis, then hammered all the chassis with big rubber mallet to knock any loose rust flakes off, then dinitrol rust converter again, used it with the compressor and underseal gun with about 1.5meter probe. Left that a fews days then several litres of Dinitrol cavity Wax, then wire brushed and Dinitroled the out side with the black chassis spray after removing as many bits from chassis as possible.
 
Hi james,cheers for that. The holes above the front jacking points are just a tiny bit too small for my drain cleaner nozzle. What size did you open the drain holes too?
 
i tried putting my nilfisk drain cleaner attachment into the front jacking points. it goes in fine, but only to about 9" as it gets caught up on something inside the chassis rail. I dont think this method works too well myself. Tried it through the backend too but all the water comes out of the first chassis hole before it even gets in front of the back wheels.
 
Your not trying hard enough then, the cleaner goes in the front of the chassis and will make it all the way down to the gearbox, yes there are some obstructions early on the strengther tubes for the steering box and a bit of webbing but it will go just needs a bit of back and forth with a wiggle and twist. Cant rember how big I drilled them maybe 10-13mm ? some smaller, the big one on the inside of chassis where loom goes I covered with a piece of plastic RTVd in place the same with the front jacking points they just get mud pushed in through them.
 
Just to let you know Schultz isn't waterproof and holds moisture so make sure the surfaces are treated/painted first, it's only there to protect against impact
 
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