Doors/Batteries/Alarm/Haldex - Help!

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Matthew9889

New Member
Posts
7
Location
York
Hi everyone
I have owned a 63 plate, 63k Freelander 2 for about 3 years now and have had no issues, it's been a great vehicle! Occasionally I have had the odd problem with the key fobs either not working correctly or needing resetting but other than that all fine.

I do need some advice on two recent issues if there is anyone out there with some expertise that can help I would be really grateful. I have seen both of these mentioned on the forum in various places but it doesnt quite cover my issue.

First is regarding the door locks. A few weeks ago none of the doors would unlock, and we had to go in through the tailgate. Eventually the front passanger and rear driver door returned to "normal" operation, however the front driver door does not lock and the rear passenger door does not unlock! I took it for a diagnosis and the 4x4 garage said that it needed two new locks. Yesterday I replaced the actuator on the front driver door with a brand new one, and was feeling very pleased with myself after quite a tricky process! However, the door still does not lock, so I assume it can't be the actuator. Given the rear passenger door also failed at exactly the same time, I am suspicious about what the actual real problem could be. I can hear the mechanism whirring inside the door, and when sat in the drivers seat, I can see the lock next to the handle trying to close, however it is almost as if it doesn't have enough strength to lock itself fully. Could it either be a battery issue (had same one since new) or could it be some lubrication required somewhere?

Secondly, I had a "reduced traction" fault come up a few weeks ago, the garage said it needs a new haldex pump. No fault lights come up since and seems to drive ok, although it does need some new tyres in the next couple of weeks as the fronts are down to 3mm and have some side wear on the walls. I've read various threads on this here but do people mainly think that it definitely needs a new pump (£500 plus vat fitted at the garage) or do you think it could need a haldex oil change only? Or could it be a random light that came on that won't return. Welcome any thoughts! I am at a bit of a loss and could do with some genuine advice from some expert owners.

The other thing that happened just today, there was a 3 minute battery warning light that came on the radio after I had just turned the ignition on. It said if I didn't start the car it would shut off. Does this link to the other issues?

And just this evening I have locked the car after pressing the lock fob twice and the alarm goes off!

Thanks everyone, any advice or tips appreciated
 
The door lock motors are known to give issues, but replacing the lock assembly should solve that one.

If it's not, then it needs to have another diagnostic read, as obviously something was missed.

I'm not sure on the module fitments to the 2013, but the pre-facelift has a door module in each front door, which controls both doors on that side of the vehicle.
If the facelift version is the same, then it's not really possible for a faulty driver's door module to affect a passenger side rear door, as the rear doors are controlled by the front module on the same side. So definitely needs another code read.


Haldex.
When was it last serviced? LR say 10 years or 150k miles, however the Haldex won't make it to 150k, unless it's serviced at 30-40k intervals.

Definitely have the filter and fluid changed, and the pump screen cleaned correctly. If it still gives a code, then have the pump replaced. The pump is about £230, and should take 20 minutes to fit, so £500 is way to much to be paying, as its an easy DIY job.

Battery issues are common, especially on the FL2, as it is very power hungry, and anything over 4 years is doing well, so as yours is now 8, it's definitely time for a replacement.
 
The door lock motors are known to give issues, but replacing the lock assembly should solve that one.

If it's not, then it needs to have another diagnostic read, as obviously something was missed.

I'm not sure on the module fitments to the 2013, but the pre-facelift has a door module in each front door, which controls both doors on that side of the vehicle.
If the facelift version is the same, then it's not really possible for a faulty driver's door module to affect a passenger side rear door, as the rear doors are controlled by the front module on the same side. So definitely needs another code read.


Haldex.
When was it last serviced? LR say 10 years or 150k miles, however the Haldex won't make it to 150k, unless it's serviced at 30-40k intervals.

Definitely have the filter and fluid changed, and the pump screen cleaned correctly. If it still gives a code, then have the pump replaced. The pump is about £230, and should take 20 minutes to fit, so £500 is way to much to be paying, as its an easy DIY job.

Battery issues are common, especially on the FL2, as it is very power hungry, and anything over 4 years is doing well, so as yours is now 8, it's definitely time for a replacement.
Thanks very much, very interesting. I think I will get the battery changed and follow your advice with the haldex. As far as I am aware the haldex has never been serviced.
 
Thanks very much, very interesting. I think I will get the battery changed and follow your advice

I'd change the battery first, before anything else. If its got stop-start, it'll need an AGM battery, which unfortunately is very expensive, but it's essential it's in top condition on this vehicle.

As far as I am aware the haldex has never been serviced.

I don't know the mileage, but if it's at the average mileage for its age, the Haldex should have been serviced twice by now.
So get it done ASAP, and don't over pay for the work. The FL2 while complex, is actually pretty easy to maintain on a DIY basis, and that includes the Haldex. ;)
 
Hi there, so the battery replacement and haldex oil change has been done. The garage said they caught the haldex just at the right time, any longer it would have been a bigger issue. The battery doesn't seem to have solved the door lock issue however. The front drivers doesnt lock (despite new actuator) and the rear passenger door doesn't unlock!
The mechanic advised that I should replace the rear door actuator as if there is an issue with the rear door actuator, it will also impact upon the drivers door as they are all linked. I think I can replace the actuator myself, just wondering if anyone had any more thoughts on this one?
 
The garage said they caught the haldex just at the right time, any longer it would have been a bigger issue.

How do they know that? Some Haldex units fail early, dispite 3 year fluid changes.

The mechanic advised that I should replace the rear door actuator as if there is an issue with the rear door actuator, it will also impact upon the drivers door as they are all linked.
Yes the rear door actuator should be replaced, especially as if it fails completely in the deadlocked position, there's no way to open the door.:eek:

However it's incorrect that the front driver and passenger rear are connected.
The way the doors are controlled, is by completely different control modules.
The door control module in the front RH side door is linked to the rear RH side door, and the front LH side module is linked to the rear LH side door, so there's no way a fault in the front right door module can effect the rear left door.

Have you had the fault codes read?
 
How do they know that? Some Haldex units fail early, dispite 3 year fluid changes.


Yes the rear door actuator should be replaced, especially as if it fails completely in the deadlocked position, there's no way to open the door.:eek:

However it's incorrect that the front driver and passenger rear are connected.
The way the doors are controlled, is by completely different control modules.
The door control module in the front RH side door is linked to the rear RH side door, and the front LH side module is linked to the rear LH side door, so there's no way a fault in the front right door module can effect the rear left door.

Have you had the fault codes read?
Hi yes I did have the fault codes read, they advised new actuators, I fitted a new one on the front and it didnt make any difference. I still need to change the rear one though to be sure I guess?
Weirdly ever since the battery was changed yesterday, the tailgate lock is now chattering on/off repeatedly whilst driving and also whilst parked and then engine/ignition off. Never had a problem with this before! All a bit strange, maybe the new battery has somehow kicked it into life or maybe some water has got into the tailgate mechanism (the car was washed yesterday too) I think I will investigate the tailgate lock tonight and see how it looks as I read they can get water damaged sometimes
 
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