Door solenoid/actuator stopped working

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
F

FreelandeRobert

Member
Posts
21
Location
Cork city
The car unlocks, it's just the passenger door that will only unlock/lock manually.

I already figured out that it's the solenoid/actuator and also that lubing it with some WD40 'might' bring ot back to life.

Would anyone have any tips as to where to spray the WD40? I assume that I would have to remove the door panel?

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Rgds,

Robert
 
They are just disposable . don't bother trying to fix.
Now ? An odd thing the freelander ones fail often . I have 2 not working . and couldn't be bothered replacing at the moment. .
But the rover 75 ones are reliable . half the price on eBay and guess what . its the same part ?? Maybe the rover window seal is more watertight . but any way anyone here has any dispute with my findings sod off I'm right. All based on freelander up to 06
 
It's the motor brushes that go on them..I replace the motors in the unit and all is good.a bit fiddly but do able. ..buying 2nd hand will just bring round the same problem. .there are 2 motors inside the module one for close and one fo open. I've done loads and this is all that fails in them.
 
jedi said:
It's the motor brushes that go on them..I replace the motors in the unit and all is good.a bit fiddly but do able. ..buying 2nd hand will just bring round the same problem. .there are 2 motors inside the module one for close and one fo open. I've done loads and this is all that fails in them.
Click to expand...
Can you post a link to the bushes please
 
That's an even better idea, I prefer a permanent fix, it might even be cheaper than buying 2nd hand units :)

A part number, manufacturer or link would be grand!
 
There are no links to the brushes these are cheap nasty motors with very long shafts. You'll be suprised just how cheap n nasty there are when you pull one out. ..I finding them very hard to find nower days and when I do they are expensive with shorter shafts. So some fettling is involved..but we'll worth it.

here is a link to a simular looking motor but this has shafts at both ends and are too short. But the casing and connections are the same. .I think the original has a 5cm shaft. You can see the fixed brushes in the pic, these wear down to the metal and then the motor just runs on the metal bits until it fooks up the armature.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/282795158066


if anyone does find a straight compatible one please post up on here.

not sure if link is working for you it's not for me..try the item number 282795158066 in an ebay search.
 
Last edited:
jedi said:
There are no links to the brushes these are cheap nasty motors with very long shafts. You'll be suprised just how cheap n nasty there are when you pull one out. ..I finding them very hard to find nower days and when I do they are expensive with shorter shafts. So some fettling is involved..but we'll worth it.

here is a link to a simular looking motor but this has shafts at both ends and are too short. But the casing and connections are the same. .I think the original has a 5cm shaft. You can see the fixed brushes in the pic, these wear down to the metal and then the motor just runs on the metal bits until it fooks up the armature.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/282795158066


if anyone does find a straight compatible one please post up on here.

not sure if link is working for you it's not for me..try the item number 282795158066 in an ebay search.
Click to expand...
How long does each shaft have to be. I found some on ebay but not sure.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-New-D...761186&hash=item3617a52622:g:UAoAAOSwX9FZDSmb
 
I don't remember off hand I could never find the right lenght(always too short) but if you pull a door lock module apart all will be apparent. You have to fit the worm gear from old one to new motor. And add a bit of shaft...(oooooo errrrrrr missus) if you buy a shorter one. Around 5cm if I remember rightly is the original lenght. If you can find the right fit with the right worm gear you are in straight push fit tertiary. The link don't work for me can you send item number etc
 
Good find! Wouldn't it have to be 12v or I am missing something?

I would prefer to buy the units before dismantling the door since it's my daily runner. When I have the parts, I only have to take it apart one time and then put it back together... Perhaps I can find a cheap/broken complete unit which I can take apart and refurbish and then change for the broken one in my car.
 
Yodaman said:
Maybe the rover window seal is more watertight .
Click to expand...

I think the CCU in the Freelander drives the actuator for a longer than it does on the 75. This would account for the actuator motors shorter life.

The 75 actuator is cheaper than the version sold for the Freelander.
 
Last edited:
jedi said:
I don't remember off hand I could never find the right lenght(always too short) but if you pull a door lock module apart all will be apparent. You have to fit the worm gear from old one to new motor. And add a bit of shaft...(oooooo errrrrrr missus) if you buy a shorter one. Around 5cm if I remember rightly is the original lenght. If you can find the right fit with the right worm gear you are in straight push fit tertiary. The link don't work for me can you send item number etc
Click to expand...
253323167210
 
I bought a 'cheap' Rover version from fleabay. Going to take that apart first to see what it looks like and what kind of motors are in it

Thanks all for the tips and tricks! Will keep you posted.
 
Is this the right item to buy? When not, does anybody have a picture of the correct item?
 

Attachments

  • actuator_LR.jpg
    actuator_LR.jpg
    44.8 KB · Views: 149
Sooooo, got the piece and opened it up (it sounds easier than it is and getting it back together again will be an even bigger pain, but this one is just for a try-out, so it's not a problem... yet). Pic attached.

The shaft needs to be 27mm (or longer of course) and seems that the original RPM is 20005?
 

Attachments

  • 20180624_120542.jpg
    20180624_120542.jpg
    158.1 KB · Views: 107
Thanks! I was thinking in that direction....

Now to either find a motor with a 2.7mm shaft or to find a way to transfer the old shaft to a new motor.

I have already taken apart an old motor, but getting the shaft out is not easy.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Disco 4 (LR4) Door actuator issue
Replies
2
Views
606
benh999
B
Landylady666
Front passenger door on Disco 4 not unlocking with key fob
2
Replies
33
Views
1K
gstuart
gstuart
C
Disco 2 Central locking diagnosis help?
Replies
3
Views
897
sierrafery
sierrafery
F
£300 Freelander project! ... my first ever Land Rover
2 3
Replies
44
Views
2K
pwood999
pwood999
J
Freelander 1 Tailgate problems. SOLVED
Replies
9
Views
2K
Jonny H
J
Back
Top