Door Hinge Removal

I had a hinge pin break on my CSW yesterday. The bolts look pretty rusty so I'm worried about trying to remove them. Any cunning tips/tricks to remove them without any disasters? lol. I've started spraying the heads with plus gas for a start. Can I get to the back side at all? It's the middle near side door.

Thanks,
Paddy

Impact Driver or right sized screwdriver with a long handle to get some purchase.

Hammering the head to 'break' any rust bond can also help

they are captive nuts iirc. so if you need to you can just drill them out.

Chances are you wont shift em if the hinge pin had got to that state, you can try a blow torch on the head as well however nothing I could do would ever have shifted mine so I chopped through the hinge where it mounts to the pillarcutting through the bolts at the same time and replaced the lot. Cost me just shy of £60 for 8 new hinges and stainless mounting bolts all round.

Cheers Steve

trax said:

they are captive nuts iirc. so if you need to you can just drill them out.

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They are, fixed to metal hooks that slide over the pillar edge.

If you destroy them drilling out cheap easy to replace

There's a busters thread on hinges which has some pics of what I'm poorly describing!

and yes you can get to the back through the access hole in the pillar but the nuts are normally welded 2 up on a removeable plate, the bottom requires access from underneath through a similar hole in the pillar if you intend to replace the plates as well, the fronts door ones are not accesible and are on captive spring clips, stainless replacement is the way forward lol

Cheers Steve

Just drill them out, its much easier than pricking around with an impact driver or big philips drivers.

I can only see a red cross lol but hopefully this is the access hole at the rear, but as stated drill em out and replace, save messing

Cheers Steve

paddy700d said:

I had a hinge pin break on my CSW yesterday. The bolts look pretty rusty so I'm worried about trying to remove them. Any cunning tips/tricks to remove them without any disasters? lol. I've started spraying the heads with plus gas for a start. Can I get to the back side at all? It's the middle near side door.

Thanks,
Paddy

Click to expand...

Chuck water over it. Make sure you hold the doors as they'll fall oft.

Hippo said:

Chuck water over it. Make sure you hold the doors as they'll fall oft.

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You do talk some rubbish






Everyone knows the water will pass through the door and out through the floor without hardly breaking the flow

Stainless wont rust - BUT it'll cause the less noble metal that it is fixed into to rapidly corrode.

Cheers for the input guys a new set have been ordered and another easy (I hope lol) job awaits.

markav8r said:

Stainless wont rust - BUT it'll cause the less noble metal that it is fixed into to rapidly corrode.

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Totally agree. Waste of time using stainless unless it's not in contact with steel. Believe it's similar to aluminium so won't corrode it so much - Not sure though???
Us Brits first learnt about "Galvanic corrosion" from the Navy I'm told,
A boat was lead lined with copper nails. After first voyage they were perplexed as to why the lead lining had vanished!! The copper nails had suffered galvanic corrosion!!
Check out the following links!!

Stainless Steel bolts kit for Land Rover | Landroverweb.com

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Aluminum will corrode just as quick. It's less noble. If you really must use a dissimilar bolt then best practice would be to use zinc chromate paste, duralac - aka "gorilla snot". It's available from Light aero spares www.lasaero.com

Another good idea is to put a nylon washer under the head.

In my opinion, best to use zinc passivated bolts, and if next to alloy - use some "gorilla snot" & a nylon washer.

I keep a 1964 seaplane. It's aluminum with steel. The only place I'll use stainless fixings is in Fibreglas.

Interesting stuff!!
I take it then that the defender build was doomed from the start where galvanic corrosion is concerned??

I haven't had the pleasure of a defender yet. Still on my first P38.

I spent a long time killing any surface rust on chassis.

If you take precautions with SS bolts, as prev mentioned then It will minimise corrosion. If you are concerned, remove a bolt, inspect the area it's bolted into, and if ok simply put back using some thread seal compound.

The gorilla snot works better though.