door frame repair ...

well since buying my welder ive found more and more jobs need/want doing before they get out of hand and i have a million for the MOT- and truth be told i should probably have bought a better landy - but budget - wanting a project and the time of year meant this was the best i could get......- least it has a fairly decent chassis and drives well

found that the door frame or the inner sill that the seat box fixes to is fooked at one end - now given the lower door seal is on the door is there any reason i cant get creative with some box section(im not going for the purest look ) and my power tools ? - unless of course the correct bit isnt expensive but i cant find it anywhere - could be looking under the wrong description though!

has anyone done this repair - what size box did you use - am i liable to find other issues to contend with ? - will probably construct and fit some rock sliders at the same time tbh to get rid of the "cosmetic" sills

Think the part you're describing is the Sill Channel.

Depending on year either MWC1086/1087 (left and right) or ALR5294/95

About £40 + VAT

thanks station house , finding alot more info now im looking for the right thing.

all i was getting before was door bottoms - those in mine are top quality 2x4 hardwood!

Anytime

I find it so much easier searching google by part number than name

If it is a 110csw it is part of the B post assembly and there about £250 each. It is possible to cut the crap out and weld 2mm steel in just depends how bad they are. If you replace it you will possibly find the bolts to the bulkhead are seized as are the ones at the tub so if it isn't to big a repair weld away

its ok andy its a 90 - was having a good look at how id do it last night .....

saw that the rear tubular outriggers (which are solid) where they bolt to the rear bulkhead/front of tub appears to be giving way to galvanic corrosion - few holes round the bracket ! - - imsure this is a body mount and thus needs to be fixed for mot - although judging by the mud i removed from there too see it passed its last mot with a mudpack !

Yeah my body tub bracket mounts had enlarged holes due to corrosion as well. If it's not too far gone you may be able to get away with using large flat repair washers, make sure they're zinc plated steel though as opposed to stainless, been told zinc plating doesn't react in the same way with the aluminium.

try yrm metal solutions they sell all the bits that rot

pricey said:

try yrm metal solutions they sell all the bits that rot

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Does that mean they sell complete cars then.

bevhelee said:

Does that mean they sell complete cars then.

Click to expand...

pretty much

repair panels and body mounts for all Landrovers, including Range Rover Classic, Defender, Series, Discovery

gone for the cut it out and put in alu plate rivited to the existing tub then drilled holes and bolted it back up.

used the old seat box end to create a new bit of tub at the front for the sill chanel which was pretty good nick to bolt to ! and rivited the new seat box end to it and all is solid there

even replaced the door seal , hinges , b post and the bottom of the door frame and the door falls shut now where as before it needed a good whack.

shame its multi coloured.

Ghost said:

Yeah my body tub bracket mounts had enlarged holes due to corrosion as well. If it's not too far gone you may be able to get away with using large flat repair washers, make sure they're zinc plated steel though as opposed to stainless, been told zinc plating doesn't react in the same way with the aluminium.

Click to expand...

I've been thinking about repairing the bottoms of the doors and wonder why Ghost suggests to use coated steel rather than SS.

Can anyone shed any light on this please?

Done what someone will tell me and searched.

Introduction
Bimetallic corrosion can only occur when two dissimilar metals are in 'electrical' contact and are bridged by an electrically conductive liquid.
The 'cell' produced can result in corrosion to one of the paired metals. This can be an issue when stainless steels are in contact with other metals, depending on the circumstances.

What is needed to set up the corrosion 'cell'?
To set up a galvanic cell between two conducting materials (metals or graphite), the two metals must have differing potentials or be more or less 'noble' than each other.
The more noble metal (cathode) is protected as the less noble metal (anode) sacrificially corrodes.

The table below is an example of these 'metal to metal' relationships, including graphite as conductive non-metal.

ANODIC (Least Noble)
Magnesium
Zinc
Aluminium
Carbon steel or cast iron
Copper alloys (brass, bronze )
Lead
STAINLESS STEEL
Nickel alloys (Incoloy 825,Hastelloy B)
Titanium
Graphite
CATHODIC (Most Noble)
The further apart the metals are, in terms of relative potentials, the greater the driving force in a cell. So, for example, stainless steel in contact with copper is less likely to be a risk than when it is in contact with aluminium or galvanised (zinc coated) steel.

To complete the cell, a conductive liquid must bridge the contact metals.
The more electrically conductive the liquid is, the greater the danger of corrosion. Seawater or salt laden moist air is more of a risk than contact with rain water or towns water.

Coated steel is better than SS for the repair of the door frame.
Now need to price a sheet of 18 gauge zintec.

I'm going to repair mine this summer. I have some 50mmx35mmx2mm steel box section and some 75mmx2mm steel plate. I'll cut out the rotten bottom frame rail and set in the box section. I'll stitch weld a length of the flat plate to the box section to give the door skin something to fold over then weld the whole lot up. I'll post before and after pics when I get going and the weather has warmed up. It looks easy to do on paper but I'm sure I'll come across a few problems.