Does This Make Sense

Trying to Buy IRD online..Got this from seller..Recomends I buy VCU aswell..

Tipex tested my VCU and it worked fine..

Very confused now,don't know what to do,..Any advice please



The tipex test is an absolute myth. I have no idea who came up with this test and why this useless test is still banded around on forums etc. A VCU never totally seizes solid, if it did the car would not actually move as the car would be locked up solid. A lot of people paint the tipex on the wrong bit so it looks like it hasn’t moved, so maybe that’s why people still believe this test is valid. VCU’s go “tight” and do not slip as easily as they should, its all about how much torque is transmitted through them. We have a test rig that measures this, hence how we can tell if an old VCU is working within tolerances. A quick test is to see how the car feels on complete lock and driving in reverse and dipping the clutch, if the car slows down as if the brakes are on then the VCU is totally shot. Trouble is unless you know how a good one feels its impossible to say if its OK. With you also saying the rear diff mount was damaged, I would definetly say the VCU is gone as this is another tell tale sign of a shot VCU. We will not give a warranty on the IRD unless we have tested your VCU or you purchase one from us. What ever you decide, I strongly suggest you change the VCU. A VCU should be treated like a cam belt and changed ever 60k miles, although I have seen knackered ones at 30k on heavily used cars.

Thankyou,....Colin

ccoaton said:

Trying to Buy IRD online..Got this from seller..Recomends I buy VCU aswell..

Tipex tested my VCU and it worked fine..

Very confused now,don't know what to do,..Any advice please

A quick test is to see how the car feels on complete lock and driving in reverse and dipping the clutch, if the car slows down as if the brakes are on then the VCU is totally shot.

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That's mine fooked then......

Obviously he has an interest in scaring owners into believing the tippex test is crap but it's all we have and at least it gives an immediate indication of seizure which we know happens.

I took mine to L/Rover dealer as I had never tried a new one and they said it felt normal. It slows the vehicle as he describes on full lock but then so does a series L/Rover without one

A mate of mine is a landrover mechanic at a stealership and he told me "it is normal for all freelanders to feel tight on full lock, it is just the way they are".
They are right in saying that the tippex test is not an accurate measure though. Your vcu may be seizing intermittantly, or be too tight.

If you are having to change the ird you may aswell replace the vcu or you could end up goosing the new ird with the old vcu.

Mine also slows down a bit on full lock in reverse, being an auto it's been easy to gauge how much as you don't need to apply throttle. Mines never changed in the year I've owned it & all is ok with car. The Garage tell me this is normal. With your IRD needing replaced you would probably be better replacing the VCU as a matter of course, but I would use somewhere different than this place.

Thanks for your replies..

Really should replace the VCU,.But can't help thinking mine is fine,.Tipex test worked and there isn't a mark on it, paintwork on it is mint condition, thinking it has been replaced at some stage,.I replaced a Front Rear Diff Mont that had gone,.and am intending to replace the VCU Bearing mounts aswell..before i install the IRD ..

Under Lot of pressure......Colin:frusty:

You could test it that test rig he was talking about.

who's dishing out these scare tactics?

The tippex test, first mentioned on here by our very own Willo, is a more than suitable test.

So they have a rig ehhh? In that case are they prepared to quote a range of torque figures.

Secondly, in that case they should be testing customers VCU's free of charge.

Sounds like double standards to me, on one hand they say they will not give warranty without a new VCU, on the other they say a VCU can go in less than 30k. You could quite easily clock up 30k before the warranty runs out.

G-Man says get a series you don't get these problems on a series

G-man said:

G-Man says get a series you don't get these problems on a series

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No, but you do get rotten bulkheads and rusting chassis, and they not very economical either.

Northern Irelander said:

who's dishing out these scare tactics?

The tippex test, first mentioned on here by our very own Willo, is a more than suitable test.

So they have a rig ehhh? In that case are they prepared to quote a range of torque figures.

Secondly, in that case they should be testing customers VCU's free of charge.

Sounds like double standards to me, on one hand they say they will not give warranty without a new VCU, on the other they say a VCU can go in less than 30k. You could quite easily clock up 30k before the warranty runs out.

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Ok,.Made a dicision..

Am gonna get an IRD unit from a different supplier,..I will use my own VCU and replace the Propshaft bearings,..
What Northern Irelander says makes sense,.And as I'm From Northern Ireland..
Seems like a plan to me..

Thanks again for all your replies,....Colin

Colin are you in NI? or further afield?

I might be able to source a bearing supplier, was talking to the regional manager, he reckons he can beat any price and possibly supply shims if thats all the problem is???

I haven't done the IRD rebuild yet, I know for my OE IRD it's just the first pair of bearings that are slack, rest is fine. 7 bearings in total for the IRD

I would ask howcome the IRD is gone, do you think it's just the bearings?

Running in 2wd will confirm this.

Yep am in Co.Armagh..Portadown

There is a small hole in the bottom of my IRD,.I take it something has popped its head out...

Am running in 2WD at the minute with IRD Blanking Plate on and Hole filled to stop leak,..All seems to be running fine,.No wierd noises..

When i got the Freelander(bout a month now).The Rear Diff front mount was gone and i replaced it,.Think that might have caused the problems up at the IRD because of the way the Rear Diff was slopping about..

I've seen Prop Bearings on Ebay for £30.00 Plus Delivery..
Should be able to get a second hand IRD for arround £350 to £450 Hopefully.

If you know of any IRD's Localy around that money please let me know..

Thanks....Colin

For what it's worth, I think you're doing the right thing & old Northys advice is spot on. If they had been genuine, they would have offered to test your VCU free of charge & told you the range of torque figures it would have to meet to pass. This would have been done in a friendly, polite manner, not aggressively like you were dealt with especially since you intended spending a reasonably large amount of money with them.

Good luck & let us know how you get on.

howardo said:

No, but you do get rotten bulkheads and rusting chassis, and they not very economical either.

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You forgot to mention they're dog slow & pretty poor in comfort stakes.


C-Man says stick with the Freelander, it's a far better machine.

but will a freelander be running when its 35 years old like my series is?? answers on an ird/head gasket/ door that fell off cause it got wet

G-man said:

but will a freelander be running when its 35 years old like my series is?? answers on an ird/head gasket/ door that fell off cause it got wet

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Yes & it still won't be rusty.

chromiumuk said:

Yes & it still won't be rusty.

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Thanks for the advice people,.I have bought an IRD at £410.00.....
Will get Prop bearings aswell,.and let you know how i get on..

Thanks again,.....Colin