Does this look terminal?

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brianconwy

Well-Known Member
Posts
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Location
conwy, north wales


I take it this means cylinder head cracked. I am debating whether to scrap the car as it is a shame as it has just passed its MOT. New clutch in March and sorted out leaking sunroofs, had new windscreen about a month ago. I don't want to spend big money on it and I am thinking that removing and replacing cylinder head might be a bit beyond me.
 
Assuming that is water vapour not oil vapour, why have you assumed a cracked head, could it not just be the head gasket?
You would still have to take off the head and maybe get it skimmed, but far from terminal. However, I guess you won't find out unless you pull off the head, and at that point you are kind of committed. :(
 
Can also be leaking valve stems, worn pistons, worn rings/failed rings, excessive block bore wear... all things that let gasses blow by.

Is it down on power? If not and you don't have any issues with oil level rising/coolant dropping or getting oil contamination I'd just keep driving it, these are breathy engines.
 
If that is steam in the video then there is a breach into the coolant somewhere. Not sure how any of the above would cause that. If water is getting into the oil then you should not just drive and ignore it as it will form an emulsion and eventually compromise the lubrication from the oil.

If it is oil vapour then yes, although I would also expect the engine to be burning oil and for the exhaust to be blowing blue/white smoke. Not something I would put up with for long.
 
It is oil vapour. I can't see any contamination in the water or oil. There is a problem with diesel getting into the sump which is why I have changed injector seals and washers. Before I changed these again the other day, I removed 5 litres from the sump to get it back to normal level. Webuyanycars.com offered us £300 for it. Will have to have a think on whether to sell it for spares/repair or stick it to one side and try and have a go at removing the head. When we changed the clutch this year I sold the engine hoist hoping I wouldn't need it again. Thanks for the replies.
 
OK, to be clear does the engine burn oil? Are you leaving a noticeable blue/white smoke screen behind you?
If not then oil vapour is almost certainly not getting into the combustion chamber through over worn valves, rings, bores etc. Some oil vapour under the camshaft cover is normal and will go out through the breather, through the turbo and back into the engine, but if you are not seeing exhaust smoke then it is probably not too bad. I have never taken off the oil filler cap on mine with the engine running, for all I know that amount could be normal.

Fuel in the oil is probably a separate issue. Other than injector seals I'm not sure how you would get such a huge amount of fuel contamination of the oil. Has it improved since you replaced them?
 
tIt broke down the other day with my stepson driving. There was a lot of smoke and the front camshaft seal had popped off. I haven't driven it much since changing the seals but there is a substantial loss of power I presume due to lack of compression on one or more cylinders. I needed to rev it to get up the hill to my house. Thanks. Brian.
 
Bennehboy said:
It's quite common if one of the injector pockets develops a crack.
Click to expand...
Makes sense.
Brian, my commiserations, but unless one of the major gurus on here knows better (and they often do), then I suggest you price up the cost of fitting a refurbished head and then make your call to repair or not. I would avoid webuyanycar though, even if you chose to scrap it, putting up for on-line scrap offers should net you more than £300. We got £400 for my wife's old Citroen C5 with 200K on the clock and collapsed hydraulic suspension. If the rest of the D2 is in good nick then scrappers will recognise the value of the parts.
You could always look at a scrappage deal on a new car, Vauxhall are offering £4000 at the moment. Of course you would have to drive a Vauhall......OK forget that.
 
I'm intrigued by your statement that the camshaft seal popped off. I assume you mean the camshaft bore end cap and the end cap seal which implies substantial overpressure under the camshaft cover. But this should just have vented through the breather pipe. Have you checked it is not blocked?
 
brianconwy said:
It is oil vapour. I can't see any contamination in the water or oil. There is a problem with diesel getting into the sump which is why I have changed injector seals and washers. Before I changed these again the other day, I removed 5 litres from the sump to get it back to normal level. Webuyanycars.com offered us £300 for it. Will have to have a think on whether to sell it for spares/repair or stick it to one side and try and have a go at removing the head. When we changed the clutch this year I sold the engine hoist hoping I wouldn't need it again. Thanks for the replies.
Click to expand...
i would have changed oil not just remove 5 litres as it means oil is only just above half of the remaining, until heads off its impossible to say but another engine isnt that dear nowadays
 
Oil seal2.jpg

I checked the breather pipe and changed the oil when I had changed the injector seals and washers. I have thought about looking into getting the crack welded if it turns out to be that. Someone is selling an engine a couple of miles away for £150 but it is a 10p. Is it easier to change an engine or cylinder head?
 
6 of one half a dozen the other really, you'd also need the ECU for that 10P engine (or get yours remapped if it's a suitable NNN type).

EDIT - by remapped, I just mean have the 10P base map for an NNN ECU flashed on. Anyone with nanocom that has TD5 unlocked can do this. (there are some intricacies to overcome, specifically 15p has 3 pot pedal & 4 wire AAP sensor, the former is a nanocom setting, latter would require you to swap a sensor out/alter the loom)
 
Last edited:
brianconwy said:
View attachment 181741
I checked the breather pipe and changed the oil when I had changed the injector seals and washers.
Click to expand...
Yup that is the crankshaft bore end cap which, unless it just fell out because it was not in properly to begin with, suggests a substantial overpressure, not relieved by the breather. I think you should check the breather again. Disconnect each end and blow through each; if the pipe is good it may be where it goes into the camshaft cover or the turbo inlet.
 
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