Dodgy series 2a

I bought a an ex-military 2a in february, i was told that it had series 3 wings put on it when demobbed in 1973 and that someone put in s series 3 dash later. It had a V5 with a manufactured date of 1962 and a historic vehicle certificate.
I've not done much on it since then because of a shoulder operation. However, recent tinkering have led me to believe it is all series 3. Looking for the chassis number (at least where i think it should be) has been unsuccessful. I have attached a photo of what i think is a metal plate welded just above the right front spring mounting. I would grateful if someone could confirm that the chassis number is missing.

Finally, does any one know what will happen when i report this, i.e. will it be impounded or given a Q plate. I'd like the previous owner to get a police visit but assume i will be the lucky recipient of any heat.

Thanks

I wouldn't want them to scrap the vehicle. Id say get it sorted, a Q plate may be an idea though, your right

A tip for you mate, is check the bulkhead windscreen hinges, if they are block like, its a Series III, check the door hinges too, blocky is Series III, is the radiator grill plastic?

I know all these things can be adapted, but they are signs.

Thanks, it has series 3 windscreen and door hinges. But the grille is a metal late series 2a one.

When you say get it sorted, do you mean make it look more like a 2a. What ebout the lack of chassis number?

No, I said get it legally sorted tbh. I dont know how understanding they are

From what i've heard thay are not too understanding about what is basically tax evasion.

Would it be possible for you to confirm that i have looked for the chassis number in the right place? The photo should be viewable now

Thanks

The chassis number should be on the centre bulkhead mate, behind the gearstick. It definetly looks like its been ground off. I just hope they give you a Q plate, I'd hate to see a classic go.

Yeah, it has got a nice shiney vin plate with the right number on it.

I've seen places where you can buy those plates on the internet. Doesn't seem right somehow.

The sensible thing to do would have been to check all this stuff BEFORE you bought it. Mind you there a many, many landies out there that are made out of bits from others and don't have much of the original vehicle left. Not having a number on the chassis is not necessarily a reason to believe it's a ringer ther could be any number of reasons it's not there. I'd say if you're happy with the vehicle and want to keep it, say fook all. If you just want to make life difficult for the previous owner, which may or may not happen, go for it. But be aware that you are the one likely to lose out with the worst case scenario being the vehicle is taken off you and crushed.

This might help you to reveal it's identity, but if I am wrong, someone please correct me.

Mine is a 1963. The front door pillar (where the hinges attach) is different to the later ones. If you take one of the hinges off, look at where the bolts screw in...the earlier Series (or at least mine was) there is a captive bit inside the pillar. The later ones (or, at least, the Series 3 panel I replaced it with) has an easily removable captive nut, which can slide out - quite different!

I agree that i'm a idiot and should have checked the chassis number, but was so focused on good chassis, bulkhead and engine that i actually thought the black gunge on the chassis was a GOOD thing.
Plus the seller seemed a really nice guy and had a sob story about a liver transplant! I actually payed way over the odds. And, yes i do realise what a total bell end i am.
If (hypothetically) i do nothing, how would it be found out. Its obviously not checked at mots and I don't intend to sell (hopefully ever). On the other hand i don't want to do lots of work only for it to be taken away and crushed.

The door pillars have captive threads so i guess that makes it early, but doesn't have the brackets for the central instrument panel like on 2a's. Are the different bulkheads detailed anywhere? To be honest, i'm not even sure if its an ex-military.

Again, someone correct me if I am wrong...but a subtle difference old the bulkhead...the door stays...on the Series 2 and 2A there is a rod that extends out of the bulkhead and is is fixed in one place on the door. On the Series 3 there is a slider mechanism in the door itself. Of course if series 3 doors have been fitted then they may have been adapted....but you are likely to still have the slider part on the bulkhead.

I bought a an ex-military 2a in february, i was told that it had series 3 wings put on it when demobbed in 1973 and that someone put in s series 3 dash later. It had a V5 with a manufactured date of 1962 and a historic vehicle certificate.

Click to expand...

As you are questioning if it is ex-military....my V5 has the manufuactured date as well as the date it was made civvy...does yours have this? Perhaps all don't have that, but might give a clue if it does!

The v5 has a declared manufactured date of 1962 and a first registered date of 1973. Doesn't anything about military release. The only reference to military is on the historic vehicle certificate.

Doors are definitely series 3. Is there anything that identifies a military series 3. I only know that the shackles are longer, but mine has the standard ones.

Even though the doors are series 3....does it have casing the slidey bit on the bulkhead where the Series 2 doors would have been?

Manufactured 62 and registered 73 is a good sign it would be ex-mil I would have thought? It is unlikely it would sit for 11 years otherwise without being registered?

There is a sort of channel in the bulkhead which could be for a door stay. I would love it if it was genuine but are there legitimate reasons for covering/removing a chassis number?
And if it gets inspected, isn't that the only thing they care about?

This channel is on the underside of the bulkhead right, pretty much close to your right knee on the drivers side? Then it will be a 2 or 2a chassis (unless someone has gone to the effort of welding the channels in!

Legitimate reason for removing chassis number...perhaps it needed a repair because of corrosion so the metal had to be cut out? Not sure.

not 100%, but check the spring hanger on your photo (thicker bit) for a chassis number. would be easier to stamp on there.

wouldnt worry about it too much, if theres a vin plate inside on bulkhead or on bonnet slam panel with chassis number on it.

mine is a plain lump of ally plate with chassis number stamped on, just rivited to slam panel.

any signs of dumb iron being replaced? (bit in your pic)

the chassis number is on the front left spring hanger. so maybe have a good look there. (this is on a series 3)

There is a vin plate on the bulkhead, nothing on the bonnet slam panel.

The spring hanger seems to have a steel plate welded on it, there isn't one on the left side. Don't know if the number was on there and ground off or the plate was welded over it.
If you had to replace the dumb iron, would you need to get it stamped or is it legal to have no chassis number?