Do disco1s and disco2s use the same rear door?

As stated in the title? anyone help me out please fellas?

Dunno. Do you need a door for a disco 1? I got one here would have to check the condition of it first though.

mrnice said:

As stated in the title? anyone help me out please fellas?

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Apparently not! Only the outer skin is the same.

is the rear windscreen?

Hinges appear to be the same... I hope so anyway cos i've got a pair of TD5's sat waiting to be fitted to my 300!

The rear door is the only panel/body piece that is the same on the two vehicles

chappers606 said:

The rear door is the only panel/body piece that is the same on the two vehicles

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I have read this information in three or four books/articles, my Td5 looks pretty much the same as my 300 used to, but to be sure you'll have to compare them side to side.

Alyn

lerk said:

Hinges appear to be the same... I hope so anyway cos i've got a pair of TD5's sat waiting to be fitted to my 300!

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The hinges are the same. LR only supply replacements for the D2s now, but they fit the early ones too.


......must get round to fixing my bottom hinge......oooeeer....

Yep, the hinges are the same fitting although different design...

ps. bottom hinge can be replaced without removing the door.

> Remove the spare wheel

> Remove the door card:
- 6 x PZ screws in subwoofer grille + 4 under grille, then 8 x PZ machine screws, then disconnect the cable to the amplifier and remove the speaker/amp assembly
- 2 x 10mm Head bolts holding the grab handle
- 1 x PZ screw in door latch handle trim
- prise off the door card

> Make sure the door is fully opened and the checkstay is fully locked

> Undo the two bolts (13mm head) fixing the hinge to the door (one is under a plastic grommet)

> Remove the three bolts fixing the hinge to the body

> At this point you'll need to remove two rivets holding the plate to the side of the door, I just removed them with a chisel and a big hammer - although a grinder may be a better choice!

> Once these rivets are removed you should be able to slide the hinge into the car and out of the door - a little jiggling of the door gives the clearance needed to fully withdraw the hinge

> Insert the new hinge and fit the two bolts into the door then maneuver the door to line up the bolts into the body - a helping hand may assist at this point

> Refit the door furniture

> Marvel at the sound of silence over bumpy stuff when your rear door isn't trying to fall off!


I didn't bother refitting the rivets on the new hinge, can't see it going anywhere!

Thats what that chuffin noise could be, thought it could be a bush on way out but when i think of it it does sound like i aint closed back door properly when i go over a couple of bumps cheers lerk

Pyper28 said:

Thats what that chuffin noise could be, thought it could be a bush on way out but when i think of it it does sound like i aint closed back door properly when i go over a couple of bumps cheers lerk

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Open door and check screws that hold door lock into the door! Mine became loose and gave a nasty clatter every now and then, tightened screws and ahh silence

Alyn said:

I have read this information in three or four books/articles, my Td5 looks pretty much the same as my 300 used to, but to be sure you'll have to compare them side to side.

Alyn

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When you do that you'll see the TD5 is longer (more overhang at back end). It really was a whole new car but designed to look like the old one in order not to frighten people. I'm surprised the rear doors are the same but that explains why they have all the same problems!