Disco 2 Divers Door Central Locking

Ok, right.

CL works fine on all other doors and the drivers door will lock on the key fob, but, the drivers door won't unlock on the keyfob but the rest of the doors will!!

Any suggestions guys?

Unfortunately it means a replacement latch assembly. Not cheap sorry.

Sheesh, thanks for the info, Brian. Maybe I'll just dig out my monkey wrench and lump hammer - it seems to fix all other Landy problems!

Sorry your lump 'ammer won't help this time, nor will the big monkey wrench.
The problem seems to be down to the unlocking motor; there are two motors, the locking one and the unlocking one. The reason for having two is to intergrate with the central locking and the "superlock" of the security system. The central locking will lock the doors but it needs the security system to unlock them.
The unlock motor seems to be the one that goes first and there's no way into the unit, it's sealed.
I've got the rear passenger's door to do in the very near future.

Ah, I see. More expense. The good news keeps coming!!

Once again, many thanks, Brian. very helpful.

Found this on interweb.... So those of you technically minded and like a challange read on

Firstly let me tell you the issue... My drivers side passenger door lock was frozen locked. You couldn't pull the tab up to unlock the door. So I pulled the door trim off from inside the car, opened the door, and pulled the lock actuator which was holding the lock down.

So the drivers side passenger door lock actuator died.

Well these things arn't cheap, and apparently they break on a regular basis, so I decided to take the old one out, but before buying a new one I'd rip it open and see what makes it tick...

Not sure if you guys are aware of this, but the internals of that thing are VERY simple!

After prying it open I found it's pretty much a series of gears attached to a small DC 12v motor, then the main cog drive pushes or pulls a grooved tab which moved the lock either up or down. It pretty much much looked like the rear end of an electric RC car, not very complicated!!! Clearly the gears are set at a slow high torque ratio as to activate the lock based on a high RPM 12v motor.

I simply cut the two wires to the motor and removed it, which once pulled wouldn't turn freely, it was seized, so there is my broken part... I went down to radio shack and bought a 12v DC 10,000 rpm motor... Pulled the gear off the head of the broken motor, pressed it onto the new motor... Soldered the wires up to the new motor , dropped it in, put the cover back on the actuator.. Put the unit back into the door, and like magic it's new again...

So what would have cost me 45+shipping on ebay, or $250 at the dealer plus a 2 week wait... I fixed in a matter of 15 min for the total cost of $2.95 and I'm pretty sure the motor I replaced it with will last a real real long time.

So anyone needing a new door actuator, don't bother... Just pull your old one apart... Assuming all that's broken is the motor, which I'm sure is the case 99.9999% of the time, you can do this the same day for the cost of an ice cream cone...

I tracked down the exact motor they use in the actuator, so here is the link, you could always just buy one of these, but what they had at radio shack was almost on par with these specs and looks like a more quality piece to begin with...

This was covered already Door lock actuator repair , also for accuracy i must contradict this statement

brian47 said:

there are two motors, the locking one and the unlocking one

Click to expand...

cos the two motors are both locking and unlocking just that one is working to simply lock/unlock(the one which wears out first) and the other only for superlock/unlock

Hallelujah, It's a miracle!!

Scrubbed up the 12v motor, drowned it in WD40. Nothing!! Ah well, I thought. Looks like I'll have to shell out on a replacement part. Come out this morning for work and the bloody thing's now working!

Praise the Lord. Or maybe praise the good lord WD40.