Love and respect the useful responses but do all you carpet pilots have to crawl up 'Ratty's' anal cavity every time he submits a comment ?
No one's responded to Ratty's comment wtf?
discovery 300tdi immobiliser bypass, the easy way.
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No one's responded to Ratty's comment wtf?
robint
Well-Known Member
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- 7,057
if its proved that the spyder is at fault go to the main dealers and ask for a spyder bypass plug should cost no more than £10 simply fits on back of box
GRATCH
HUGE MEMBER
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Maybe the retard thinks that Ratty's siggy quotes are people actually following him round and posting the same thing, in the same order on every post he makes:doh:
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Maybe the retard thinks that Ratty's siggy quotes are people actually following him round and posting the same thing, in the same order on every post he makes:doh:
WHAT???........You mean they int
:doh:Maybe the retard thinks that Ratty's siggy quotes are people actually following him round and posting the same thing, in the same order on every post he makes:doh:
*Snigger* you may well be correct in your observation.
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
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Love and respect the useful responses but do all you carpet pilots have to crawl up 'Ratty's' anal cavity every time he submits a comment ?
Nobody says that peeps have to agree with anything I have to say.... But I'm happy to point my arse in your direction if you wanna kiss it?
robint
Well-Known Member
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- 7,057
But I'm happy to point my arse in your direction
are you saying you like the feel of jizz running down the back of your legs ..................... again !!
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
- Posts
- 34,277
are you saying you like the feel of jizz running down the back of your legs ..................... again !!
says he who chomps on tubby custard.
Why aint you in bed anyway?
Jason F
Active Member
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- 111
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- Sydney Australia
Hello, Whilst there are lots of forums on how to fix or bypass the immobiliser, I would like to make my contribution.
My 300 tdi 1996 kept stopping for no good reason maybe 3 times a year?. I had tried rewiring bypasses etc, but it seems they keep changing the wiring diagrams from year to year, and nothing quite matched, so I decided to do it properly (I hope), by fixing the immobiliser.
I learnt on these forums where the problem lies. The poor quality control with whoever designed the immobiliser module. I found on opening up my module that there were two solder pins behind the black device which had cracks around them and dry joints. Other people have had other pins go bad on them, so its not the same pins always. I have resoldered the pins and hope this fixes it. If this does not fix the problem, it means pulling the dash apart again and plugging in a bypass plug ($17 from Land Rover).
The most difficult part of the job was dismantling the centre of the dash. The plastic has gone a bit fragile, and I broke off a few tabs in the process. The mounting screws behind some of the modules were obvious to see, but the two vertical ones at the top of the radio position had me stumped until I removed the metal cage. and two horizontal screws below the radio position hidden behind the removable bar type of cover. This cover below the radio needs to be levered out from the top edge 2mm (no more) and then gently wiggled upward so the two tabs don't snap off (as they did with me). Also, the radios metal cage has to have 4 metal tabs (2 top 2 bottom) levered up so it can slid out, you can then get access to the two vertical screws (at the top of the photo).
I also ended up cracking the dash in places which I have resined up from behind to strengthen it. I have to say that's its a very fragile job, so if you are not confident in this sort of work, perhaps do the external fuel solenoid and starter relay bypass's externally (if you can find a correct wiring diagram). Hope this helps.
My 300 tdi 1996 kept stopping for no good reason maybe 3 times a year?. I had tried rewiring bypasses etc, but it seems they keep changing the wiring diagrams from year to year, and nothing quite matched, so I decided to do it properly (I hope), by fixing the immobiliser.
I learnt on these forums where the problem lies. The poor quality control with whoever designed the immobiliser module. I found on opening up my module that there were two solder pins behind the black device which had cracks around them and dry joints. Other people have had other pins go bad on them, so its not the same pins always. I have resoldered the pins and hope this fixes it. If this does not fix the problem, it means pulling the dash apart again and plugging in a bypass plug ($17 from Land Rover).
The most difficult part of the job was dismantling the centre of the dash. The plastic has gone a bit fragile, and I broke off a few tabs in the process. The mounting screws behind some of the modules were obvious to see, but the two vertical ones at the top of the radio position had me stumped until I removed the metal cage. and two horizontal screws below the radio position hidden behind the removable bar type of cover. This cover below the radio needs to be levered out from the top edge 2mm (no more) and then gently wiggled upward so the two tabs don't snap off (as they did with me). Also, the radios metal cage has to have 4 metal tabs (2 top 2 bottom) levered up so it can slid out, you can then get access to the two vertical screws (at the top of the photo).
I also ended up cracking the dash in places which I have resined up from behind to strengthen it. I have to say that's its a very fragile job, so if you are not confident in this sort of work, perhaps do the external fuel solenoid and starter relay bypass's externally (if you can find a correct wiring diagram). Hope this helps.
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