Discovery 3 2.7 TDI 2008 engine only stops when lights switched off
- Thread starter Kilroyd
- Start date
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Hi
first thing I would check would be ur battery voltage and if u can get hold of a code reader to check if anything comes up
plus do u tow and used the sockets lately plse , indeed a bizarre error that’s for sure, see how u get on with the battery test and codes , Plse let us know how ur get on
hope that helps
first thing I would check would be ur battery voltage and if u can get hold of a code reader to check if anything comes up
plus do u tow and used the sockets lately plse , indeed a bizarre error that’s for sure, see how u get on with the battery test and codes , Plse let us know how ur get on
hope that helps
Thank you for your reply, much appreciated. I do tow a trailer for work, most days. I checked the battery voltage and read the codes with an iCarSoft LR V2 code reader, pics below. I am also getting the HDC suspension lowered fault, which I didn't mention on this thread as I didn't want to confuse things! Had a new Exide battery 3 months ago, put in new brake light switch, have new brake bulbs arriving, and new parking sensors, so was going to fit that stuff before asking about the annoying HDC fault, if it persists. I still love this car, in spite of its peculiarities.
Many thks
if u don’t mind me saying , best to get the voltage with the engine off, should be a min of 12.6 Vdc
please reset ur steering wheel angle sensor , plse don’t think I’m trying to teach u how to suck eggs, get ur wheels dead straight and see what the angle is, should be zero , if not reset it as that can cause all sorts of issues if it’s out, sometimes the steering wheel angle sensor can separate from the column, but there a few easy fixes for that
see how u get on with that , good you’ve got a new battery which should be fine but always best to at least double check it
plus when checking Vdc with the engine running , see what u get with everything turned on around 2500 revs, should go up to around 14 to 14.5Vdc, but we can worry about that later if req after you’ve checked ur steering wheel angle sensor
U codes u don’t normally have to worry about , other code is ur rear outer parking sensor
reason I say about to towing is sometimes the 12s and 12N can short out causing all sorts of issues , just never heard of the engine not being able to be turned off ref the headlight switch
Plse let us know how u get on, hopefully it should at least cure the HDC error and we can then go from there, so after doing the angle sensor , reset ur codes , then take it for a drive and rescan to see what comes back
hope that helps
if u don’t mind me saying , best to get the voltage with the engine off, should be a min of 12.6 Vdc
please reset ur steering wheel angle sensor , plse don’t think I’m trying to teach u how to suck eggs, get ur wheels dead straight and see what the angle is, should be zero , if not reset it as that can cause all sorts of issues if it’s out, sometimes the steering wheel angle sensor can separate from the column, but there a few easy fixes for that
see how u get on with that , good you’ve got a new battery which should be fine but always best to at least double check it
plus when checking Vdc with the engine running , see what u get with everything turned on around 2500 revs, should go up to around 14 to 14.5Vdc, but we can worry about that later if req after you’ve checked ur steering wheel angle sensor
U codes u don’t normally have to worry about , other code is ur rear outer parking sensor
reason I say about to towing is sometimes the 12s and 12N can short out causing all sorts of issues , just never heard of the engine not being able to be turned off ref the headlight switch
Plse let us know how u get on, hopefully it should at least cure the HDC error and we can then go from there, so after doing the angle sensor , reset ur codes , then take it for a drive and rescan to see what comes back
hope that helps
just quickly which front wishbone did u change plse, upper or lower , thks
also did u remove the butterfly valve when u done the egrs plse and left the pipes in situ just putting a blank by the engine block , thks
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I'll be pilloried for saying this but never mind.
Have you taken the column shroud off and had a good look at the wiring? There may be chafing between the headlamp switch wiring and the ignition switch wiring. A short there could lead to current going where it shouldn't.
You could also disconnect the headlamp switch wiring plug then see what happens.
Very old skool I know but that's me.
And I have been right in the past,.........sometimes!
Good luck with it!
Have you taken the column shroud off and had a good look at the wiring? There may be chafing between the headlamp switch wiring and the ignition switch wiring. A short there could lead to current going where it shouldn't.
You could also disconnect the headlamp switch wiring plug then see what happens.
Very old skool I know but that's me.
And I have been right in the past,.........sometimes!
Good luck with it!
Many thanks all.
The battery voltage with engine off is just 12.45V
I'll check at 2500rpm tomorrow and let you know, thank you.
I changed the front off side lower wishbone.
I'll take the shroud off as suggested, thank you. I'm ordering a new steering angle sensor to see if it helps with HDC fault, so probably have to take that off anyway?
RE the HDC fault, now changed dodgy parking sensors, also brake switch and bulbs and reset SAS, but no joy. Throwing SAS faults, so will change that. I checked it and the yellow plastic disc is moving properly with the column, so suspect sensor itself possibly goosed?
Very sorry to have mingled two faults into this thread! Does anyone think a failing alternator could be behind any of this? Thank you all, much appreciated!
The battery voltage with engine off is just 12.45V
I'll check at 2500rpm tomorrow and let you know, thank you.
I changed the front off side lower wishbone.
I'll take the shroud off as suggested, thank you. I'm ordering a new steering angle sensor to see if it helps with HDC fault, so probably have to take that off anyway?
RE the HDC fault, now changed dodgy parking sensors, also brake switch and bulbs and reset SAS, but no joy. Throwing SAS faults, so will change that. I checked it and the yellow plastic disc is moving properly with the column, so suspect sensor itself possibly goosed?
Very sorry to have mingled two faults into this thread! Does anyone think a failing alternator could be behind any of this? Thank you all, much appreciated!
ur so welcome
hold fire on the steering wheel angle sensor plse, because as u done the lower front wishbone did u get 4 x wheel laser alignment done, a Hunter system is normally the best
battery is abit low , could do with a charge as should be with the engine off 12.6Vdc
no I wouldn’t have thought a dodgy alternator would cause that , maybe a dodgy ignition switch, ??? but doesn’t make sense that u have to turn ur headlight switch for the engine
out of curiosity is ur passenger side footwell carpet wet by any chance please, has it been power washed of through any fords , deep water etc plse
plus when u look at ur steering wheel angle sensor the plastic sleeve should turn with the column , the outer black part is the actual plastic module
Plse let us know about the lower wishbone if the 4 x wheel alignment was done after , thks
also agree about taking the storied off, the headlight switch is easy to get out and with the shroud off can check all the wires , very weird that’s for sure
so can u turn the engine to the off position and key out and the engine still runs, is it just the headlight switch thats works, will any other switch work, ie fan controls, etc plse , cheers
Plse let us know about the wishbone and how u get on
Apologsies just re read ur post , as the yellow sleeve is moving with the column that should be ok , just need to check a few other things first , as changing that ur have to remove the steering wheel column
did u clear the faults ,and then rescan it plse , plus interested about the alignment and if it was done after changing the wishbone
Hope that helps and plse it’s not a problem, many here to always help , fingers crossed can get to the bottom of it for u
did u clear the faults ,and then rescan it plse , plus interested about the alignment and if it was done after changing the wishbone
Hope that helps and plse it’s not a problem, many here to always help , fingers crossed can get to the bottom of it for u
Hi, thanks for this. I haven't yet had the wheels aligned, although I am going to, but the fault was happening before so I thought it was unrelated. That said, it happens much more frequently now and maybe the knackered wishbone was throwing it out too? I'll get the alignment done next job. Yes, I can take the key fully out after switching off and it carries on running! It only does it with the lights on and engine dies when i switch them off, weird. I'll definitely have a look beneath the steering shroud as suggested when I get a second and give the battery a charge, thank you!
As a side note plse , when u do change things like wishbones , struts etc it’s normally better to change them as a pair
but no point worrying about things like that at the moment , it was just a note and hope u didn’t mind me mentioning it
but no point worrying about things like that at the moment , it was just a note and hope u didn’t mind me mentioning it
ur very welcome and it’s so nice when people appreciate help , honestly it’s not a problem
u won’t get rid of errors u til that 4 x wheel alignment is sorted out I’m afraid , can cause untold issues causing the landy to have a fit
that’s weird about the key , I’ll see if I can do some more digging for u
thks, it was just an idea if it’s just the headlights that turn the engine off
am wondering if there’s an issue in the Canbus system,mod u happen to have. a multimeter please as if so can talk u through which pins to test on ur OBD2 socket for the high and low canbus which will test every module on both can us systems, but we can go into that if need be
