Disco2 or P38 better? (DIESEL)

OK am sure it's been asked before! Time for more comfort than my 1959 S2. They are similar money and the P38 style suits me better, I like a lower centre of gravity and don't need 7 seats, and think less rear overhang for off road use. Is the P38 more trouble than a Disco2 to own and maintain? Its not too hard to find a D2 on a galvanised chassis, but on a P38 that seems harder to find than a sensible politician.

I doubt you will find a P38 on a galv chassis as they don't really rust. Well they do but they are probably the least rusty LR product out there. Maintainence will be very similar I'd expect although the p38 has more electronics, for either vehicle you'd want your own proper diag too. The TD5 is LR's finest and very tuneable, the M51 is a very solid engine with cheap parts but underpowered in standard form.

That's interesting, I'd assumed D2 and P38 shared the same chassis, and of course D2 chassis rust badly. Maybe I should look into P38 then. Have had 4 RRC and they were superb on and off road, but all were utter rot boxes. ARE p38 bodies OK for rust cf Disco2? I know D2 suffer inner fro the wi gs, rear wheel arches, sills. What are the P38 problems?

No worse than any other 20-25 year old car, you may find a few that need a little work on sills or wheel arches but more common will be ali corrosion on the bottom of the lower tailgate and the bottom edge of the doors

RustHater said:

What are the P38 problems?

Click to expand...

high mileage diesels can suffer with FIP probs - quantity servo mainly, cured by a rebuild..

the petrols can suffer slipped liners - mucho £ to fix properly..

wiring on the 38 can be an issue, but most of the problems are well known and fairly easily dealt with - you'll need patience, but..

P38 and D2 are poles apart in terms of quality and construction - same principal, but rather different implementation - P38 better.

driveline is different too P38 have morse chain transfer case with VCU in the centre diff - can fail..

I wouldn't have either without proper diagnostic kit.

RustHater said:

Have had 4 RRC and they were superb on and off road, but all were utter rot boxes

Click to expand...

I'm not in a position to advise as I have zero knowledge of either of your choices.

What I will say in defence of the Classics is that although LR products are very prone to corrosion the real reason they rot is that owners don't look after them
I have a 35 year old Vouge EFI that was treated to proper corrosion prevention by the second owner & I (as the third) have continued the process over the past 14 years; consequently the car has remained basically free of rot (just had the lower rear seat belt mounts plated 2 years ago) & I have a tame local body-shop guy that deals with any panel corrosion & paintwork.

Yes of course all this attention costs money but the result is not only a nice motor to own & drive, one that appreciates in value as well. I send pictures to my insurance co. & have no trouble getting a 5 figure agreed value policy each year.

norseman said:

the real reason they rot is that owners don't look after them

Click to expand...

Nailed it. Completely and utterly.

P38's don't rust at all really, mine lived most of its life next to sea to add insult to injury and there isn't a spec of rust anywhere underneath it..

My D2 and RRC were/are rot boxes, one of the issues is like above the owners not caring for them but in reality the biggest issue is they're full of badly designed water traps, shít paint and a complete lack of any internal coating on any of the panels so most rot from the inside out.

D2s for example people think they just rot on the chassis HA HA no........

Front floors - scuttle where the bonnet hinges mount and also where the loom enters the car near the passenger side - rear sill plates rear arches - and the sills themselves in some cases and of course the chassis which rot the entire length not just the rear 1/4.

RRC's and D1's well you know about how they rot.



Vs P38.




As for styling..

Personal preference

Thanks, amazing how much less the P38 rusts. I like the styling g of most things gs Landrover. For me the P38 pips the Disco and I don't need the 7 seats and raised roof either. I would want to join Series 2 friends greenlaning 2 or times a year, a bit too much mud on Salisbury Plain once a year, quiet Devon lanes but some pretty severe rock steps and deepish water in Wales once a year. I suspect this may cause a few unhappy sensors on a P38 but perhaps no more than on a Disco 2 or even a Defender with TD5

RustHater said:

Thanks, amazing how much less the P38 rusts. I like the styling g of most things gs Landrover. For me the P38 pips the Disco and I don't need the 7 seats and raised roof either. I would want to join Series 2 friends greenlaning 2 or times a year, a bit too much mud on Salisbury Plain once a year, quiet Devon lanes but some pretty severe rock steps and deepish water in Wales once a year. I suspect this may cause a few unhappy sensors on a P38 but perhaps no more than on a Disco 2 or even a Defender with TD5

Click to expand...

P38 will throw a hissy if for example you get water inside the cabin, or though worn height sensors.

But I believe the P38 can actually wade to the same depth as the defender and D2 so no worries there, and with EAS you'll be pretty unstoppable