Disco I 200tdi front diff - what are my options?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

m1943

New Member
Posts
20
I'm really confused, the front d. shaft is loose, they say both LT230 and front diff need a rebuild. I am in the West of Russia and could easy get "new" t-case n' diff from a junk yard in Russia, Lithania, or Poland. But I don't want to go that route. It seems there is lots of things out there, so I got overwhelmed and confused. Diff ratios 4.1 vs. 4.75, KAM vs. Leyland, ARB, air locks, electric locks, self-locking, rebuild kits from this company or that company, and so on. One fellow I know fitted a P38 rear diff to his RRC and he swears this is the way to go. Is there a common knowledge what to do best? Labor is pretty cheap here and I can do some things on my own, too. The poit is, if I am to spend time and money on this old rust bucket, I want to make upgrades rather than just fix it so it'll run for a while more. Thank you all.
 
Get a second hand, good transfer box and fit rather than a rebuild. It's much cheaper and easier. Also just go for a standard 10 spline diff, either front or rear will fit. Don't worry about lockers, ARBs, diff ratios etc....if you want to keep it standard
 
Thanks for the response. The thing is, I don't really want to keep it standart; I mean it isn't exactly a staple of perfection after all. My problem is, I'm fairly ignorant on the subject. I see a diff can be a 10 spline or a 24. What would be the advantages of going with the latter? Does this has to do with ratios? 4.1 vs. 4.7? How would either affect the function and performance (not sure "performance" is applicable here)??
Lastly, if I do choose to follow the junkyard path, could I fit a diff from a more recent D2 or a Def?
 
Last edited:
ratios would have to be changed in pairs (front and back) and are used to counter effect of huge tyres ie with std 3.54 crown wheel and pinion prop shaft has to turn 3.54 times for 1 rotation of wheel but with 4.1 prop has to turn 4.1 times,people modify diff housing to take p38 pin diff which is stronger than std 2 pin diff though a std 4 pin diff is available for disco and defender just rare, if your afte greater traction you might want to look at the various types of lockers on the aftermarket, diffs in 300 tdi defenders on and disco 2 are 3.54 diffs and would fit but are 24 spline and axle would need modifying to be (in which case buying a 24 spline axle would be easier)pre 300 tdi defender diffs are 10 spline and would just bolt in
what are you after greater strength ,greater traction ,different ratio
 
ratios would have to be changed in pairs (front and back) and are used to counter effect of huge tyres ie with std 3.54 crown wheel and pinion prop shaft has to turn 3.54 times for 1 rotation of wheel but with 4.1 prop has to turn 4.1 times,people modify diff housing to take p38 pin diff which is stronger than std 2 pin diff though a std 4 pin diff is available for disco and defender just rare, if your afte greater traction you might want to look at the various types of lockers on the aftermarket, diffs in 300 tdi defenders on and disco 2 are 3.54 diffs and would fit but are 24 spline and axle would need modifying to be (in which case buying a 24 spline axle would be easier)pre 300 tdi defender diffs are 10 spline and would just bolt in
what are you after greater strength ,greater traction ,different ratio

I'm not trying to build a monster truck out of it or to win any trophy races. It's just that both UAZ 469 and Mercedes G-wagon w461 have locking front and rear and center of course, and D1 should have, too but doesn't. I couldn't bring myself to get the former and couldn't afford the latter, so I got the Disco.
The biggest tires I can see myself are 31s probably; I'm not going to cut any arches or do much of a body lift. I use it mostly in the city, but sometimes on wretched roads and I need to be able to jump curbs. Occasional ligh to medium off-roading, nothing extreme. Snow. Ice. Haul both family and construction material/equipment. So streangth and traction are both important. Afterall I might tow stuff on occasion, too.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so what about the P38 diffs, I know some people were trying to fit them to the D1/RRC. Any consensus there? I keep driving her as it is, but repairs should be done soon. . .
 
Back
Top