Disco 300tdi swap into a 90TD

wasnt edc then if it had cable operated pump, there are pumps with security boxed solenoids but thats to prevent theft not edc

jamesmartin said:

wasnt edc then if it had cable operated pump, there are pumps with security boxed solenoids but thats to prevent theft not edc

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I stand corrected tis always nice to learn summat noo.

I know I'm not perfect but give us a chance. Please.

IamRobbie said:

goodluck! you'll love the power upgrade as well as the fuel consumption improvement!!

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I'm just looking forward to it not spewing diesel all over the drive and the leaving a nice trail all down the road like my 19j does, instead of swapping the fuel pump and stripping the engine to replace worn out parts as it struggled to pass the emission test for the MOT I decided to replace the whole engine.

Right, been up since twenty to three this morning so not a great deal of progress made once if finished work, I did manage to get to Craddocks though for a few more bits.

Started by improving access courtesy of Mr angle grinder



Undid the starter motor and fuel filter and so on, taking photos as I go to help with the refit.

I'll be fitting an electric fan so I won't be needing this.



Who needs a special tool when you've got an angle grinder and a hammer



I'll be replacing the water pump, cam belt and p gasket tomorrow just for peace of mind, disconnecting the last few bits and hopefully pulling out an engine or two..

Cam belt homework....

300TDI cambelt and Kit - Land Rover Technical Archive - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f49/300tdi-cambelt-some-final-tips-please-207729.html

Do you need different engine brackets?

bluehaze said:

Do you need different engine brackets?

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I'll cut them off the disco when I've pulled the engine and then weld it into the tratter

EDC was only used on the later Auto discovery , there is no cable from accelerator to pump
there are cables for cruise control , and kickdown that locate on bellcrank on side of FIP
There is also an ecu , and inj 3 has a electrical connection as thats used as a timing point . HTSH

That's why if you're looking at doing an engine swap you want to buy a manual discovery or an engine from one, otherwise you have to replace the injector pump for a non EDC version

Marmaduke said:

That's why if you're looking at doing an engine swap you want to buy a manual discovery or an engine from one, otherwise you have to replace the injector pump for a non EDC version

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Or you can use the fly by wire, and edc system which gives you a bit more horsepower . and a built in immobiliser system

Land rover + electronics = disaster waiting to happen

I'll go for a bit less horsepower and no brummie wiring any day

Had a annoyingly unproductive day today. Hoofing it down with rain this morning and working outside, great..... I also spent a good forty minutes searching for a box of latex gloves that I'd bought and put somewhere safe, I can't get the bolt off the lower pulley to replace the cambelt and I also can't find my puller which is also somewhere safe, when I don't want the bleeding thing it's always in the way and now I do want it there's no sign of it but I did manage to sort the p gasket.



I think it's fair to say it's been leaking for a while, cleaned up OK though



I also replaced the water pump, just for the sake of knowing it's been done..



Disconnected and removed the exhaust down pipe, alternator and power steering pump, I also made a start on the bolts around the bell housing and there a three I couldn't get at, I thought I'd use the engine jack I've got off ebay to remove the engine mounts and the git bagging the won't lift the engine, looks like the ram is goosed so I've bitten the bullet and purchased a brand new one from Machine Mart. Buy cheap buy twice, but I will be getting my money back.

I seem to have spent more time looking for stuff than doing stuff. Joy joy joy.....

it happens mate.

Its always the case that you put things in a safe place and they are so safe you can't find um again.. I do it all the time!

Crank pulley bolt is and should be very tight,ways to remove it on this forum.cheers.

crank pulley bolt, large breaker bar under drivers chassis leg, turn the key for a second or so it will undo the bolt.

every time ive done a timing belt the crankshaft pulley has come off reasonable easy enough with a little bit of tapping each side at a time and pulling..


Bell housing bolts on my donor disco we took a stilh saw to the inside of the disco and cut away a hole to get to the bolts from the top.

IamRobbie said:

crank pulley bolt, large breaker bar under drivers chassis leg, turn the key for a second or so it will undo the bolt.

every time ive done a timing belt the crankshaft pulley has come off reasonable easy enough with a little bit of tapping each side at a time and pulling..


Bell housing bolts on my donor disco we took a stilh saw to the inside of the disco and cut away a hole to get to the bolts from the top.

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Cheers for that, all the reading up I've dove suggests that technique, it'll have to wait until the starter motor is back on, I've got a impact gun but that didn't even worry it.

As for the bell housing bolts I'll get the angle grinder out later, access is a bit of a git with the dash board in though...

It's going to the scrapheap in the sky. Cut her up lol. If i remember we got in alright after cutting it up..

Cracking the crank pulley is a bitch

I think I'm going to start doing therapy sessions where you can beat up an old discovery with a hammer for £200 a time, I feel much better

I spent a worthless morning trying to get at the three bolts on the back of the engine, then finally gave up and started to strip the dash out to get at the back of the firewall, I started out with a screwdriver and socket set dismantling bit by bit and then lost my rag and got the wire cutters and hammer out...





Try reconnecting these...


Then got the drill and jigsaw out and finally....



The three git bagging bolts that are almost impossible to get at, but there's got to be a better / proper way to do it, how do the guys at kwik-fit get on? I don't think they'd be allowed to get the hammer out but hey ho the engine should be out tomorrow, although I'd thought that on Saturday

It's a good learning curve, don't bother trying to grate your knuckles on the firewall just attack the centre console with a hammer and take out the heating controls and anything that behind it

What you do is lift the engine off the mounts. Remove the rubber mounts and then lower the engine. From underneath useing some long extensions a universal joint, 17mm socket and a ratchet, you then undo the nuts.
And that's how it's done, but I like the hole through the tunnel.