Disco 2 PAS pump swap out.

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allegedly

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Location
Fort William Scotland.
Hi guys. Never done this before so I thought I'd put a few pics together for any other diy-er like me.
Finally managed to source a new O ring for the lower low pressure inlet pipe attachment but it turned out not to be that after all.
So, I ordered a reasonably priced new (rebuilt) pump from the very helpful lads at Steering Specialists and it arrived two days later.
I've done a fair bit on my Landys' in the past but this was a new task for me so......
The weather improved in that it stopped snowing and the sun came out so the 'Workshop' was open!
 
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Suns out, brew done, crack on!
 

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Undo the fastenings on the fan cover and remove. Undo the bolts on the engine cover and remove.
First thing I did was to open the reservoir lid then get a very clean container to collect the fluid.
I lay underneath and undid the lower jubilee clip on the low pressure pipe, the bottom one on the pump.
The fact that it's a length of reinforced pipe with jubilee clips tells me the original pipe probably 'wore through' and leaked previously.
Had to be quick to catch the fluid in the funnel and not lose lots/make a hell of a mess but caught almost all.
Next:
The only 'special tool' I used was a viscous fan spanner bought on line for about a fiver.
Look behind the centre of the fan and place the big spanner on the nut. I had to 'tap' mine a couple of times to free it off. It's an opposite thread so it moves to the left as you look at it.
Once slack, the fan just spins off on it's threads.
Next was to slacken off the three retaining bolts on the front of the pulley wheel mounted on the pump. Plenty of room for a socket in there with the fan out.
Next, using an extended socket bar (I don't own a 'proper' extension so a length of pipe over the bar did for me) put it on the central bolt on the lower left pulley wheel and push the bar to the left. This is the belt tensioner and doing so slackens the serpentine belt sufficiently to pull it off the various pulleys.
I'd taken photographs but I still made a quick sketch of the route of the belt.
 

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I checked the belt for condition, damage etc once it was off. It appeared fine so popped it inside the car for safe keeping.
Belt off so I undid the three bolts on the pulley and removed the pulley wheel.
The mess from the slow leak was now evident but also easy to see were the four fixing bolts and the one holding the mounting plate at the 12o/c position.
With good access, I undid the hp pipe fitting on the right hand mid point using a spanner from above and slid the locknut and pipe back a bit.
Again, lots of room for the socket and out came the two long, lower bolts and the two upper, short bolts.
Incidentally, I'm loath to use 12 point sockets on most bolts on the Landy unless I've no choice.
A good but expensive buy ages ago was a set of hex 'impact' sockets and they've paid for themselves several times with non rounded nut/bolt heads and they take a good 'knock' from a hammer on a bar too!
The pump now slides out, with, in my case the low pressure hose attached to the lp attachment pipe on the bottom of the pump.
I gave the open front of the water pump drive a wipe over and noted the alignment of the water pump drive.
I removed the LP pipe from the old pump and put it on to the new pump and tightened the jubilee clip.
I then took the mounting plate off the old pump and bolted in on to the new one using the single, central short bolt and offered it up to the engine.
I put the four fixing bolts back in (the two long at the bottom holes and the two short ones in the top ones) and tightened them up by hand.
I'd checked the alignment of the two pumps but still kept checking the rotation as it pulled in.
The four fixing bolts and the plate bolt were now tightened up.
There are torque settings but I don't have one so it was a case of tight but not over tightened. Refer to the manual.
With the pipe securely inplace,the HP pipe lock nut was now tightened up.
Next I refitted the pulley wheel. Fiddly but once the first small bolt is in, the other two go in a piece of wee wee. Again, these were tightened up hand tight then a light spanner pressure too, holding the wheel.
Hardest job for me was putting the serpentine belt back on. In the end, I got a length of rope and tied off the extension bar as far to the left as I could get it and finally got the belt over the main pulley the fan goes on to.
Another check over the belt to make sure it was properly in the grooves and the belt tensioner was eased off.
Fitting the fan is the reverse of the above and then underneath, laying on the rubber boot liner mat in the snow, to do up the jubilee clip on the LP pipe connection.
I wiped everything in sight down, top and bottom and the reservoir too then topped it up with the saved fluid, which was clean and a bit more from the bottle.
I started the car and span the wheel from lock to lock several times.
It made a noise at first but this disappeared as the fluid fed through.
I turned her off and left her for a while, checking underneath for any signs of a leak............nothing!
I didn't bleed the system but if the noise returns, I'll try it but right now it doesn't seem to need it.
Another point, the 'frothing' I'd noticed in the past in the reservoir didn't happen again, or nowhere near as badly so it must have been taking in air too and aerating the fluid.
So, finally, done and I'm pleased. It was a lot easier than I thought and I'd recommend anyone with a bit of common dog giving it a go if needed.

Bit long winded but I hope this proves useful to other numpties like me with limited knowledge and tools but driven by various needs, i.e. financial mainly!!

Cheers
Rob
 

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Fingers crossed then Discodriver.....I've got to fit the bumper back on now and fit the lights as they've arrived at last. I'll post on here if it sounds crap but stationary movement it sounds fine.
Thanks for the heads up though.
Cheers
Rob
 
Fingers crossed then Discodriver.....I've got to fit the bumper back on now and fit the lights as they've arrived at last. I'll post on here if it sounds crap but stationary movement it sounds fine.
Thanks for the heads up though.
Cheers
Rob
they state a 14 day exchange, i could only tell when you drove it, and all fluid was upto temp, i even did a fluid change 7 days later after i fitted it, no better, cos 14 days was up they refused when i contacted em, so involved paypal, no problem then, money refunded once it was returned, i put a Genuine Hobourn on, great now,
 
Great post coz its just what Im about to order tonight, and tackle next week!
I replaced the steeringbox last weekend because it was leaking. Since then the steering has been heavier than before. Ive spoken to Paddocks who supplied the box and National Power Steering who supplied the recon box to them. They suggest that it is most likely that the old pump is struggling to pump fluid around the refurbished boxes new seals which I suppose makes sense. So I'll treat it to a new pump as well at 130000 miles and if thats not it they have said that they'll happily exchange the box for another one. I could really do without the hassle of changing the steering box again though.
By the way, what seals or o rings are required and where did you source them from?
 
Great post coz its just what Im about to order tonight, and tackle next week!
I replaced the steeringbox last weekend because it was leaking. Since then the steering has been heavier than before. Ive spoken to Paddocks who supplied the box and National Power Steering who supplied the recon box to them. They suggest that it is most likely that the old pump is struggling to pump fluid around the refurbished boxes new seals which I suppose makes sense. So I'll treat it to a new pump as well at 130000 miles and if thats not it they have said that they'll happily exchange the box for another one. I could really do without the hassle of changing the steering box again though.
By the way, what seals or o rings are required and where did you source them from?

the steering pump is a sealed unit, exchange or a complete new one
 
No I mean is a new o ring required on the input or output pipes?
What sort of price are new / recon pumps - I see Paddocks have them for around £150.

you undo the clip on the rubber pipe, and there is a small o ring on the threaded pipe/return, you can get them from most diy place/plumbers merchant if you havent any, i got my pump off this guy

Melling U.K. Limited OEM Automotive Components £150.00 same as the orginal one
 
Good point about the guarantee....just doesn't fit with UK laws. Fit for purpose is the phrase to bear in mind.
Thanks for the input Discodriver, good info mate.
I paid just over ninety quid for the recon unit and, as said, fingers crossed it's a good un.
Gav, the pump comes as a sealed unit and as far as I could see, there's no other seals/O rings you need to get. As I said though, my LP pipe to the adapter pipe was a short length of plastic reinforced pipe held on with two jubilee clips so if there's a small O ring in the end fitting on the original pipe, I never got to see it.
Bumper just about ready to refit, sourced new galvanised rear wheel arch mudflaps/splash guards and they're sprayed up in stone chip black so ready to go on too with new galvanised bolts. Think the next little job should be the gearbox fluid/filter change out.
Happy motoring fellas!!
 
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Hi guys, just an update on the re-con pump. I've done a fair bit of mileage since fitting it, including a trip down to the Lake District from home in the Highlands and it's been fine, no untoward noises and handling is dramatically improved. No leaks either!
So, Discodriver, either I got a good 'un or you just got a bad 'un mate. Sorry you had to resort to legal threats to get a fair deal but I've no complaints to be fair.
Just got to fleabay the bits left over!
Cheers
Rob
 
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