Disco 2 Hub reassembly question.

Hi good folks. Just reassembling after changing upper and lower front ball joints. Torqued the collet up to 5 its and the top and bottom nuts of the hub/knuckle you can see in the photo up to 55. My question is that the hub is very stiff to turn when I grip it with both hands. Is this normal and is only happening because the balljoints are new, or have I done something wrong, or is there an adjustment to be made. Just want to make sure before I spanner her up.

Many thanks

Adam

depends on your idea of stiff and whether collet is too far out or the jaw has been stretched

Hi, thanks for getting back, the collet was wound right in, which jaws are you referring to?

adam koronka said:

Hi, thanks for getting back, the collet was wound right in, which jaws are you referring to?

Click to expand...

ball joint sits through either

What can I do to asses or adjust or decide if it's normal?

adam koronka said:

What can I do to asses or adjust or decide if it's normal?

Click to expand...

collet might be too far in, how stiff is stiff it should take a little effort with one hand as joints are new

Okay, thank you very much. I will get back to the coal face.

Cheers

A

Hi, well I tried a different hub carrier/knuckle/collet, torqued it up and it was the same. I then connected up the steering, started the engine and the steering feels absolutely fine, with no binding or variation through the lock, so I suppose it's just new?

A

Don't know if you have RAVE but it says to first fit the upper ball joint nut and tighten to 110Nm. The lower one should then go in and torqued to 135Nm. I believe if this procedure is not followed, the lower ball joint will be taking more tension than it should.

NPG said:

Don't know if you have RAVE but it says to first fit the upper ball joint nut and tighten to 110Nm. The lower one should then go in and torqued to 135Nm. I believe if this procedure is not followed, the lower ball joint will be taking more tension than it should.

Click to expand...

Hi, I missed this and it makes perfect sense, thanks for pointing it out

Cheers

Adam

NPG said:

Don't know if you have RAVE but it says to first fit the upper ball joint nut and tighten to 110Nm. The lower one should then go in and torqued to 135Nm. I believe if this procedure is not followed, the lower ball joint will be taking more tension than it should.

Click to expand...

I done my joints at least 3yrs ago and didn’t do this. Only because I had no clue I needed to. Didn’t torque them either as I rarely torque anything. It’s been fine, but I suppose time will tell with these things. After reading this, I would torque them if I was doing them again as I can see the sense in it.

meego said:

I done my joints at least 3yrs ago and didn’t do this. Only because I had no clue I needed to. Didn’t torque them either as I rarely torque anything. It’s been fine, but I suppose time will tell with these things. After reading this, I would torque them if I was doing them again as I can see the sense in it.

Click to expand...

it doesnt really matter joint will fit in the taper as far as it will then threads stretch if you tighten the nuts tight holding the joint tight ,unless you leave nut loose or are about to strip the threads

jamesmartin said:

it doesnt really matter joint will fit in the taper as far as it will then threads stretch if you tighten the nuts tight holding the joint tight ,unless you leave nut loose or are about to strip the threads

Click to expand...

I’m no mechanic, but i think I’ve got quite a good feel for tightening things up. It’s not failed me yet. Cheers

Well I have torqued them to spec and in sequence. Seems good on a static test, and will test on the road later. Thanks to all

A