Disco 1 rear differential
- Thread starter Sestina
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
discool
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 13,497
Ashcroft will advise u for the best location and position, my guess is at the back of the vehicle. 
Do you need the full air locker diff?
What sort of driving do you actually do?
If it’s a daily would an ATB or LSD be more suitable?
J
- Posts
- 41,266
- Location
- East Dorset
You've read my mind. I wondered how you would jump from a Disco with a tired diff to something seriously only needed if going rock crawling or whatever other hardnosed off road sport you are going to indulge in. In which case I would build a special to do it in.
Replacing a diff in a D1 is seriously a piece of cake, only a bit harder is replacing the crown wheel and pinion, well as long as you have some idea of setting it up.
- Posts
- 21,188
- Location
- In the next Glen
Agree I do, I fitted an ashcroft lsd in mine no need for a locking diff unless your planning on doing some serious off road.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,739
- Location
- Near MK
FYI an ATB or Torsen diff is an LSD.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,739
- Location
- Near MK
Getting worse in what way? Is it making snide comments or laughing at you. Or are you referring to a mechanical problem or limitation?
What age Disco do you have? Early ones are 10 spline and latter 24 spline. You’ll most likely need to upgrade the shafts if it is 10 spline as most locking diff centres will be 24 spline.
Locking diffs are only useful for certain off road driving conditions. And depending on what your complaint is with your current diff, it may not address your concerns.
As for compressor location. It would largely depend on the spec and use of your vehicle and any other mods you may have.
Sestina
Active Member
- Posts
- 139
She's a 1996 model, which I've owned since 2008 and have no intention of selling. The diff makes a bad intermittent clonking and grinding in reverse. Almost sounds like the teeth are jumping. Plus I can hear it whining all the time when going forwards.
As to use, SWMBO and I did a trip to the Pyrenees pre-Covid and I'd like to go back there, Eastern Europe is another place we'd like to re-visit. As we're on our own on these jaunts, being extra careful and prepared is a watchword.
As to use, SWMBO and I did a trip to the Pyrenees pre-Covid and I'd like to go back there, Eastern Europe is another place we'd like to re-visit. As we're on our own on these jaunts, being extra careful and prepared is a watchword.
- Posts
- 41,266
- Location
- East Dorset
In that case I would suggest you do not really need an LSD although you may wish to fit one.
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be that simply the central nut on the pinion drive had come loose.
But if it is worse than that then a replacement diff is probably the best way to go.
I should add that I used mine for years to make many trips to our place just 2 hours north of the Pyrenees towing a huge box trailer with weights up to the legal limit for the vehicle. It was utterly reliable. And the diff problem which was easily solved was down to it being not properly tightened by the 4x4 garage when they fitted it, although that was a few years before the problem arose.
Do make sure the rubber donut connection, propshaft to diff flange, is sound and also all other rubber mountings on the rear axle.
Best of luck.
Yes. But.FYI an ATB or Torsen diff is an LSD.
An ATB is mechanical geared and (i like to say) the traditional LSD is plated. they both react/work different.
The ATB is generally cheaper to.
J
Last edited:
If you are not going off road, then IMHO a full locker is not needed.
If you want/need to fit a new diff and have some benefits a torque bias is a good thing. It does its thing on its own.
J
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,739
- Location
- Near MK
So a 1996 should be 24 spline and most new diff centres will work fine. Although you may want to confirm it is actually your diff causing an issue. Also replacing the diff centre will leave the existing crown wheel & pinion, which could be the bits causing issues now along with the bearings.
Ashcroft do offer an exchange service, so can send in an entire diff and get a rebuilt one with the diff centre of your choice.
Personally I would say a "locker" is the wrong kind of diff for your use. You can't use it on dry high grip surfaces and it should only be used when there is a risk of lifting wheels or flexing the suspension to cause a cross axle. They certainly have a place off road, but you need to manually engage them and know when to use them.
An ATB diff would be a much better option and is ideal for road use as well as off road. They don't work as well if lifting wheels, but are the thing to have on gravel or slippery surfaces like grass, snow or even wet tarmac.
An ATB is completely transparent under normal driving and is fully automatic, so you don't need to engage it yourself. There is also no need for compressors or switches etc.
Centre on its own: https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/ashcroft-atb/
Or as a recon diff unit: https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/rover-type-diffs/
- Posts
- 41,266
- Location
- East Dorset
Seriously? You call that scary?
You want to come and do a few green lanes in the Dales!
