dinitrol on top of waxoyl

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ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90

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Hi all

A year or so ago, I used waxoyl on my chassis. Only a quick thin coat but there is still a fair bit on the chassis.

What are people's thoughts and experiences on using dinitrol ontop of existing old waxoyl?
Good or bad experiences?

Also, How long would you let either rust treatment dry before using it, on roads and offroad.

Thanks all
 
Hi Mate,
I just used Dinotrol and it went over Waxoyl no problem. There's a link to a university paper on here somewhere that demonstrates the best underseal. Dinotrol, hands down was the best in a salty environment, followed by Waxoyl. If you have both, brilliant! I left mine for 24hrs under cover before taking it out. I had a poke around underneath after a week and all was well, the Dinotrol had gripped nicely to the Waxoyl with no flaking or bubbling so after my experience, I'd say go for it Mate, just power hose it, ideally steam first to really get any lose off, no doubt you know all this anyway.
 
Hi Mate,
I just used Dinotrol and it went over Waxoyl no problem. There's a link to a university paper on here somewhere that demonstrates the best underseal. Dinotrol, hands down was the best in a salty environment, followed by Waxoyl. If you have both, brilliant! I left mine for 24hrs under cover before taking it out. I had a poke around underneath after a week and all was well, the Dinotrol had gripped nicely to the Waxoyl with no flaking or bubbling so after my experience, I'd say go for it Mate, just power hose it, ideally steam first to really get any lose off, no doubt you know all this anyway.

Thanks for the reply mate. Thats good news and what i wanted to hear really because i did want to use dinitrol ideally. I dont spose you have the link for the university test do you?
Unfortunatley, steam cleaners seem really pricey to hire, so im going to give it my best shot with a pressure washer
 
Hi Mate,
I just used Dinotrol and it went over Waxoyl no problem. There's a link to a university paper on here somewhere that demonstrates the best underseal. Dinotrol, hands down was the best in a salty environment, followed by Waxoyl. If you have both, brilliant! I left mine for 24hrs under cover before taking it out. I had a poke around underneath after a week and all was well, the Dinotrol had gripped nicely to the Waxoyl with no flaking or bubbling so after my experience, I'd say go for it Mate, just power hose it, ideally steam first to really get any lose off, no doubt you know all this anyway.
Dinitrol came second in that test! Waxoyl didn't fare well..

I'll see if I can find the link again, if not, look through my posts - the stuff that came out top was the British made bilt hamber dynax UB or s-50.
 
Oh arse! Well, I seem to remember Dinotrol cam top??. Please share the link again, the pic of the steel plates at the end of the test was really worrysome, with some plates that had completely disappeared through oxidisation!
I'll try to track the test down. Hold on.
 
Bilthamber promote that test because they probably won it?

They do their own cavity wax here http://www.bilthamber.com/cavity-waxes
Their cavity wax still lacks one of the most important features a cavity wax should have. Coverage.

When you spray a cavity wax in to a void, even with a lance, you will never coat 100% of a cavity. A top notch cavity wax (and there is only one i know of because i sell it) coats in the traditional way by contact, it needs to push moisture out, it needs to encapsulate existing corrosion, it needs to be a true corrosion inhibitor (i dont think dinitrol or waxoil are, as in they don't chemically modify corrosion, hecen why you need so many extra treatments when you buy a full kit), but most of all it needs vapour release. Our cavity wax constantly emits an anti corrosiove, mono-molecular film. This is why we are ahead of anything out there i have ever been shown. it self heals, and propels itself around a cavity protecting all of it.

i am doing a highly un-scientific test, and accepting coating donations if anyone wants to contribute...

http://buzzweld.com/p/product-testing
 
Yeah, but they don't do very much promotion/advertising at all really.
The test was still independent and wouldn't you use it too if your products did really well in it?! It would be silly not to.

There are other products I'd like to see compared too, but it was most interesting to see dinitrol beaten, as most hold it as the best...

To give a fair test to the corroless or buzz weld cavity wax it would need the same tests, and you could do with some of their stuff to compare too. I think in the test the bilt hamber stuff is S50 which is their softer, cavity wax, but for the undersides of the car they make dynax UB to take more abuse than the soft stuff.
 
Thanks all.

I'd love to go for some of the corroless products, but they are out of my price range. The bilt-hamber sounds great in that test though.

I wonder how bilt-hamber would get on with existing waxoyl? Bilt hamber looks very good on new metal, not sure how it Is on older rusty metal though
 
It does stop further rusting I'm told, as most if not all waxes also say.
Reading around the net, the consensus is to remove any peeling waxoyl (that's always the waxoyl downfall and traps water against the metal to help it rust!) and overcoat with BH dynax UB or S-50 in the cavities.

Does the buzzweld site list the price of their new cavity wax? I'd be interested to see how it compares on cost.
 
It does stop further rusting I'm told, as most if not all waxes also say.
Reading around the net, the consensus is to remove any peeling waxoyl (that's always the waxoyl downfall and traps water against the metal to help it rust!) and overcoat with BH dynax UB or S-50 in the cavities.

Does the buzzweld site list the price of their new cavity wax? I'd be interested to see how it compares on cost.

Have a look here. Their stuff is top notch, great advise and would recommend, have recently ordered s2 primer from them myself :)
http://buzzweld.com/t/cavity-treatments
 
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