Dinitrol ML3125 & Tetrosyl schutz - or anyone got a better idea?

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julianf

julianf

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Devon, UK
After multiple pressure wash sessions, my 110 chassis is now running nothing but clear water.

Post drying, im thinking Dinitrol ML3125 sprayed inside anything i can get it in, and then the Tetrosyl stuff on the outside.

Ill actually do the outside first though, as the ml3125 residue may stop the tetrosyl sticking, i guess.

Cheapest places seem to be ebay for the ml3125 (£68 / 6trs delivered) and machine mart for the tetrosyl (£6/ltr collected)

Before i go spending my hard-earnt, does anyone have any better suggestion?
 
I think it really depends on how long you intend to keep the LR - but IMHO:-

I wouldn't spend too much time on the outside of the chassis - it'll rust from the inside, and this is where I would spend my effort and money, I have found that simply keeping the exterior clean and painted seems to work well enough, but its your call (!). The bilt hamber s-50 cavity wax comes in aerosols with long tubes to get deep into sections, which can be extended.... Do dinitrol do something similar?

You might like to consider getting some fertan ( or an equivalent ) into the chassis pre dinitrol to arrest the rust before the dinitrol kills it stone dead.

Any area of severe rust on the exterior can also be fertanned pre treatment...

IMHO, steer well clear of anything like underseal - better, IME, to make plastic liners for the damage prone areas of the wheel arches.
 
I have a compressor etc, and a gun with a 'wand' type thing on it, however, when ive done stuff before, it seems that, with enough air, you can get a decent mist anyhow.

ie fog the inside of the chassis.

I fully subscribe to the inside being the problem area.
 
Stay weell away from undrseal it just creayes a crust that water loves to live under. QUOTE="julianf, post: 3806121, member: 71704"]I have a compressor etc, and a gun with a 'wand' type thing on it, however, when ive done stuff before, it seems that, with enough air, you can get a decent mist anyhow.

ie fog the inside of the chassis.

I fully subscribe to the inside being the problem area.[/QUOTE]
 
julianf said:
fog the inside of the chassis
Click to expand...

A friend of mine, having made his own spot welder out of an old microwave, like you do, :D, is now working our how to make a fogger for fertan - to fill "box" sections with same, and keep them in good nick... as I said to him - there are plenty of landies to use for research !!:D:D
 
The underseal that was on my 101 (military) was some sort of thick paste, 4mm thick in places, IIRC.

The tetrosyl stuff that ive used in the past isnt anything like that. Its more like thick paint, and not even that thick (although i guess it would depend on if you did one or ten layers!)

I would not want to use the stuff that the MOD used on my 101 for exactly the reasons mentioned, however, the tetrosyl stuff isnt really like that.
 
I think oil is the way to go, oil will keep an air tight seal on any rust in there slowing the process down.
 
I'd agree with the above post by @julianf ... to a point - tetrosyl is good stuff - but it has to used in the right place, and, critically, after the right preparation. This is hard graft, and rather awkward on a used vehicle - hence my comment above to line the arches with plastic... and keep a good eye on them. Don't use on a chassis - its certain to trap water and make yet more bl**dy work!
 
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