Diff Lock Warning light

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Landyfox

Landyfox

Well-Known Member
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Ok I've connected the black/blue & black wires to the diff switch on the transfer box. Once the ignition is on the warning light is permanently showing on the instrument panel as 'ON' regardless whether the diff is engaged. I'm lost as to why. I've retraced all accessible earths and ensured they all have good clean connections.

Any ideas what could be going on.?!
Is this more an issue with the switch or wiring.?!
 
switch could be stuck on ,check by pulling wire from switch if light goes out its switch or still in difflock if it stays on wire is shorted somewhere between dash switch
 
As previous but switch may not be adjusted correctly so is permanantly in the on position, details how to set up are in some manuals but expect James will definitely have the answers on this one if its this causing the problem.
 
"The most common error when setting the diff-lock is not understanding which position to set the input shaft to. As you noticed there are three positions on the diff-lock input shaft; counter-clockwise, centre and clockwise. The counter-clockwise position is a "dummy" i.e. not used. You need to set the linkage up to move from centre position to clockwise position. If you set this up to this position you should resolve your problem."

from here: Ashcroft Transmissions - LT 230

The switch will only operate when the diff-lock is fully engaged. I think the first click is the splines engaging, second click the switch operating with diff-lock fully engaged. You can adjust the throw of the lever by screwing in or out the centre pivot post that screws into the side of the transfer box, back the locknut off first. The nylon bushes also make a big difference to the slop in the system.
 
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Does this mean removing the transfer box to reset the centre option. Please say no!!

When engaging Hi an Lo there is a notable change and you can hear the diff engaging. If I was to disconnect the wires would this cause any long term harm?!

Thanks all :)
 
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Righty ho...

I've been out this morning and checked the above suggestions and can confirm the following:

1st. When removing the blue/black wire the light does indee goes out on the instrument panel.
2nd. I am able to engage/disengage the Hi & Lo range as normal.

Does this indicate that the switch is more likely to be at fault rather than me incorrectly setting diff locator during the fitting of the transfer box.?!
 
After following 'Dippys' super advice and removing the linkage to reset the diff lock, I had a little test drive around the block. All was well, no light and smooth driving with no noise.

Then....

Suddenly I was back to square one and she had slipped back into diff lock. No matter how hard I attempted to disengage the diff lock, it just refused to. I think it's yet another day with the tunnel off and trying once more to reset! :(

Also when diff lock is engaged and I am attempting to turn, there is an awful knocking noise - very loud, has anyone else experienced this.?!
 
diff lock selector in box is operated by a spring been tensioned by lever in cab pushing or pulling on linkage,so moving lever doesnt necessarily mean diff lock is moved in or out,switch if wound in too far will stop selector moving in /out properly and will either fully jam it or partially ,there are only 2 positions in or out,pivot eye bolt is set so that it goes in to either fully,which you can check by jacking up one front wheel ,if front wheel turns by hand its not in diff lock if it doesnt its in diff lock,you may need to turn a little wheel or prop to get selector collar to line up for selection of lock to occur,try it several times and ensure in or out isnt at end of lever in cabs travel ,check switch is in correctly whilst wheel is still up so that switch operates and selector still does,it will load your transmission if you try and turn in diff lock
 
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James I apologise for my ignorance...!!

I am correct in thinking that the pivot eye is the small flush oval metal bracket (selector) that moves left to right or is it the bracket which the long rod connects to with the locking nut at the bottom.

Thanks
 
Landyfox said:
James I apologise for my ignorance...!!

I am correct in thinking that the pivot eye is the small flush oval metal bracket (selector) that moves left to right or is it the bracket which the long rod connects to with the locking nut at the bottom.

Thanks
Click to expand...

last one, the link that connects cab lever to t/box, you need to remove vertical lever from pivot eye bolt and top cross shaft to adjust it, if lt77 its 2 pins and clips ,if r380 1 clip on pivot and a nut/bolt on top cross shaft 8mm and 7mm spanner needed
 
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