Diff Lock does not unlock

Thank you so much for the suggestions @tottot. Your diagnostic could make sense. I will check the right flange tomorrow and check the RH side front wheel as well.
Will let you know.

tottot said:

Them's the one's Cavey.

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Got my swivel hubs seals to do on my 110 project thread, so was doing valuablen research was boring the missus with utube on tv and landyzone on laptop

the vic & bob vid my missus put her book aside and watched she reckon she could put some of it back together.,,,,,

No pressure best get at least one side done tomorrow as well a s starting my 90..

Today's status. Just had 30min to spare. Lifted RH front wheel, no traction either. Fine at the back.
The whole front axle got no power...

Couldn't check the flange yet so easily; got to take my wheels out because of their design, but I take the problem is in the front diff itself.

When you spin the wheel look at the front prop shaft, is it turning or not ? Just because both front wheels spin does not mean that the front diff is the problem, it may be but when diffs go there is usually a rough/crunching feel to them.

Cavey_P38 said:

or an alternative

Click to expand...

This is a great one, I used this before attempting mine.

tottot said:

When you spin the wheel look at the front prop shaft, is it turning or not ? Just because both front wheels spin does not mean that the front diff is the problem, it may be but when diffs go there is usually a rough/crunching feel to them.

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Prop shaft does not rotate. The whole lot has got no feel.

Just a thought could it be as far back as transfer box ?

Most probable is a broken half shaft section, either the short bit from the CV to the drive flange [ if you are lucky ] or the long section from the CV to the diff. The only way to find out is to open things up and pull the half shafts out. If it is the inner section the diff will need to come out to remove a stub of the half shaft [ they mostly break at the diff end] and clean out the pan of any bits.
I would start on the side where the bolts were loose as a lot of strain would have gone onto that sides half shaft as the ball housing was going out of line with the axle.

Hello, this is a big nut what size is it?

I can rotate the shaft by hand and feel how crancky it is behind it...

Think 52mm

Just went to my local shop. They do good kit. 152€ the socket. Aouch. Going for internet...

It's not normally that tight, you should be able to "tap" it off with a screwdriver or drift.

Tool 606435 (part # BA3039) is around £8 on eBay - search for Defender Wheel Bearing Hub Nut Box Spanner

miktdish said:

It's not normally that tight, you should be able to "tap" it off with a screwdriver or drift.

Tool 606435 (part # BA3039) is around £8 on eBay - search for Defender Wheel Bearing Hub Nut Box Spanner

Click to expand...

Wot he said^^^^^

That looks like the outer nut, it should be tight. It also looks like a "stake nut " of the type fitted on later models where only the one nut is fitted and the collar on the outside bent [ staked ] into a groove in the stub axle. There does seem to be a bend over tab behind the nut in the pic so it may be someone has just used the stake nut from a repair kit to replace a damaged original from a two nut system.

Ordered the socket, should be there early next week. Will go deeper, till the diff I bet... Will keep you posted. Thank you everybody for responsiveness and spot on help.
Cheers

mine were that tight today and yesterday on my 110 project i could not budged them with the spanner and a bar through it..

Had to resort hammer and chisel on the edge.

Just make sure the locking tab is bent off the nut and give it a wallop with hammer and chisel..

once u have got it moving it will spin off easy, then tab off and the other one will be finger tight.

Then u will be at least starting to diagnose it.

is it near side or off side you can feel the crunchy grinding.. ?

Morning,
Thank you @Cavey_P38 for the extra details, looking forward to dismantle the whole lot and understand what bloody happened?
To answer you question, the grinding feels pretty near side.

Morning @MechanIX
Yeah not suprised that is the long drive shaft, more load on it.

Good luck with the dismantle.

If you start at the outside and just work you way in a bit at a time, i lay mine out as they come off so i don't miss anything when putting it back together.

Been doing my hubs on the 110 project this week.

Started to strip it yesterday at 2pm, by 3.15 i was only left with the bolts from swivel to axle casing. Didn't rush, you may not need to go that far, but equally you may to get access top the shaft if it is broken in two.

If you do the multi head bolts by axle casing are FT.. spanner and hammer required, i had soaked mine for a day with Wd40

RAVE gives a good breakdown of the hub

Good luck here if you need any advise, some pics of mine on this thread

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/potential-110-project.365519/ last page

If the drive shaft is bust you might be able to get the bits out with a decent magnet, one of those on an extending rod. If you do this keep all the bits to one side so you can put them back together on the bench to see if you have got them all. As far as I am aware any bits of shrapnel left over usually fall to the bottom of the diff pan anyway, so might come out by draining the diff, which would be a good thing to do anyway.

That's it! I'm pretty sure it's the same the other side. I hope the diff is fine. Check the heat the metal went through before snaping in shear!