Diff flange swap gone awry

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thetim

Well-Known Member
Posts
379
The rear diff was leaking badly, I think due to a missing balance weight leading to high out of balance. I'm taking the opportunity to switch the 3-bolt for a 4-bolt flange. I've done what should be the hard part - centring pin is out (some heat to soften the loctite made all the difference) and the flange itself is out too. However, the new flange bottoms out on the mudshield before it meets the bearing. I'm aware that a spacer is sometimes required but was under the impression that it was quite a big spacer. In this case, the flanges are very different in overall height but the distance from the mudshield to the inner (bearing) end of the part only differs by a few millimetres - perhaps 32mm on the old flange and 30mm on the new.
P1280197.JPG
The attached picture should make the difference clear - is it a spacer I need, or is something else odd going on?
As ever, thankyou in advance.
 
It gets better. On reassembly, tightening the flange locking nut immobilises the diff. It's as if a shim is missing from behind the bearing, but for the life of me I can't find one anywhere...
 
The rear diff was leaking badly, I think due to a missing balance weight leading to high out of balance. I'm taking the opportunity to switch the 3-bolt for a 4-bolt flange. I've done what should be the hard part - centring pin is out (some heat to soften the loctite made all the difference) and the flange itself is out too. However, the new flange bottoms out on the mudshield before it meets the bearing. I'm aware that a spacer is sometimes required but was under the impression that it was quite a big spacer. In this case, the flanges are very different in overall height but the distance from the mudshield to the inner (bearing) end of the part only differs by a few millimetres - perhaps 32mm on the old flange and 30mm on the new. View attachment 109590 The attached picture should make the difference clear - is it a spacer I need, or is something else odd going on?
As ever, thankyou in advance.
both flanges are the later type with the spacer built on
 
It gets better. On reassembly, tightening the flange locking nut immobilises the diff. It's as if a shim is missing from behind the bearing, but for the life of me I can't find one anywhere...
mudshield is of a later type than your other flange, 3 bolt flange uses seal frc8220 the 4 bolt seal ftc5258 it sits futher in housing as mud shield does as well if you didnt remove the outer bearing you wont have lost a shim its sits behind the bearing
 
That's what's complicating matters - I removed the inner race to check its condition. Bearing rollers had grey staining, so a new set went in (rollers and inner race only; call me a cowboy, but it seemed better than leaving the old ones in there). Old and new both Timken. I'm concerned that the shim came out with the inner race and didn't go in with it, though I'd expect to have noticed and didn't, or alternatively to be able to find it, and can't...
 
pointless leaving the old race in bearing wont last many miles ,if it wasnt a timken bearing replacing a timken bearing shimming will be out, shim often stick to the inner race of the bearing
 
Timkens both (and the old bearing was reusable in a pinch, just not pristine). Picture attached. Thanks for taking an interest, by the way - it's really helpful to get another mind on the job.
 

Attachments

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Definitely nothing there. At this point I think my options are 1) rip out the new seal :( and try re-fitting the old race to see if somehow the old and new are significantly different in dimensions (they're identical part numbers), or 2) buy a second-hand diff. I'll try them in that order, probably tomorrow though!
 
Seal out, bearing out - shim revealed. Seating old and new bearing inners into the new outer race, their heights match to within 0.1mm. Something odd's going on. I made a 1.6mm thick additional shim (the shim that's in there is 2mm) and the two together result in far too much free play. I've made one at 0.6mm thick and will try that next. I can't explain where the extra play has come from though, and that bothers me. If 2.6mm is too much, then I can try both of my home-made shims for a 2.2mm combination. Hopefully one of these arrangements gives acceptable results.

Edit - 2.2mm is spot on - turns freely with no play. Now I need to make a mudshield as the old one fouled on the diff nose (and isn't compatible with the only un-used diff seal I've got available). I'm thinking flat disc, spot-welded to the flange in three places to keep it from misbehaving.
 
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