Diesel pump

B

Bruce Somerton

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #1

Can anyone tell how to adjust the diesel pump on my 1980 series III. Just
failed the MOT on the smoke test. Have been told it is pumping too much
fuel.
Thanks

 

T

TonyB

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #2

"Bruce Somerton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can anyone tell how to adjust the diesel pump on my 1980 series III. Just
> failed the MOT on the smoke test. Have been told it is pumping too much
> fuel.
> Thanks
My old s3 had a screw and locknut arrangement on the back of the fuel pump.
Screw in to increase fueling and out to decrease. Best to try half a turn at
a time then test. You may need to adjust idle as well. This is assuming air
filter is clean, tappets set ok and all other service items are OK. Austin
may be able to give further guidance.
TonyB
>
>

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #3

On or around Thu, 23 Jun 2005 20:39:26 +0000 (UTC), "TonyB"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Bruce Somerton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Can anyone tell how to adjust the diesel pump on my 1980 series III. Just
>> failed the MOT on the smoke test. Have been told it is pumping too much
>> fuel.
>> Thanks
>My old s3 had a screw and locknut arrangement on the back of the fuel pump.
>Screw in to increase fueling and out to decrease. Best to try half a turn at
>a time then test. You may need to adjust idle as well. This is assuming air
>filter is clean, tappets set ok and all other service items are OK. Austin
>may be able to give further guidance.
>TonyB

The SIII one is a CAV/Lucas, nesspar? The only one of they I've worked on
had the fuelling adjustment right in the middle - undo a big plug on the
side, diesel falls out, rotate pump 'til holes line up and insert 4mm allen
key into the works, turn screw inside by about 1/4 turn. Pain in the arse,
compared to the bosch ones.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #4

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Thu, 23 Jun 2005 20:39:26 +0000 (UTC), "TonyB"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>"Bruce Somerton" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Can anyone tell how to adjust the diesel pump on my 1980 series III.
>>> Just
>>> failed the MOT on the smoke test. Have been told it is pumping too much
>>> fuel.
>>> Thanks
>>My old s3 had a screw and locknut arrangement on the back of the fuel
>>pump.
>>Screw in to increase fueling and out to decrease. Best to try half a turn
>>at
>>a time then test. You may need to adjust idle as well. This is assuming
>>air
>>filter is clean, tappets set ok and all other service items are OK. Austin
>>may be able to give further guidance.
>>TonyB
>
> The SIII one is a CAV/Lucas, nesspar? The only one of they I've worked on
> had the fuelling adjustment right in the middle - undo a big plug on the
> side, diesel falls out, rotate pump 'til holes line up and insert 4mm
> allen
> key into the works, turn screw inside by about 1/4 turn. Pain in the
> arse,
> compared to the bosch ones.
>

It's a CAV DPA type rotary pump. It may be overfuelling but it is more
likely that the injectors need tweaking.
Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel additive
in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the pipework
allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back
temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500 revs.
This should do the trick and let you sail through with least expense.
If more expensive work is needed, dig a hole and give it a decent burial.

Huw

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #5

> Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel
additive
> in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the
pipework
> allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back
> temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500
revs.
>
Also try running it on 50/50 paraffin/diesel, just while it is being tested.

 

T

TonyB

Guest

• Jun 23, 2005

• #6

> >> Thanks
> >My old s3 had a screw and locknut arrangement on the back of the fuel
pump.
> >Screw in to increase fueling and out to decrease. Best to try half a turn
at
> >a time then test. You may need to adjust idle as well. This is assuming
air
> >filter is clean, tappets set ok and all other service items are OK.
Austin
> >may be able to give further guidance.
> >TonyB
>
> The SIII one is a CAV/Lucas, nesspar? The only one of they I've worked on
> had the fuelling adjustment right in the middle - undo a big plug on the
> side, diesel falls out, rotate pump 'til holes line up and insert 4mm
allen
> key into the works, turn screw inside by about 1/4 turn. Pain in the
arse,
> compared to the bosch ones.

Ooher, you're probably right. I forgot mine had a replacement engine which
was said to be a 2.25 LR lump but in reality it could have been anything.
Mind you, my little Rover 418 has that sort of arrangement, removing
solenoid first, jump back to avoid shoe full of diesel, then as you say.
Takes about an hour, painful.

TonyB

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Jun 24, 2005

• #7

"SimonJ" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel
> additive
>> in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the
> pipework
>> allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back
>> temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500
> revs.
>>
> Also try running it on 50/50 paraffin/diesel, just while it is being
> tested.
>
>

Of course Simon's is not a serious suggestion in case the OP thinks it is.
Screwing the revs back is perfectly permissible however and so is the Forte
additive. A thousand fewer revs makes all the difference.
A Series Land Rover is never going to be smoke free.

Huw

 

4

4x4 Me

Guest

• Jun 24, 2005

• #8

>
> Of course Simon's is not a serious suggestion in case the OP thinks it is.
> Screwing the revs back is perfectly permissible however and so is the
Forte
> additive. A thousand fewer revs makes all the difference.
> A Series Land Rover is never going to be smoke free.
>
> Huw

Smoke free Series, is there one? LOL

You can wind back the pump, I have always let My Landy man (Rockingham
Landys) do this when needed, as he always winds it back up to it's correct
place after the MOT, but his MAIN trick is to drop off the fuel filter,
empty and clean it, then fill the bowl with that diesel injector cleaner
(Unipart DX is facking brilliant), then tip the rest in the tank and he then
roars it up the very steep hill outside his workshop and watches all the
gunge vanish out of the exhaust pipe.

Pretty well any Diesel injector flushy stuff should do the job, I just like
that DX, I work at a garage that does MOT's, we put DX in the van every 5-6
months, other than that it's pretty well ignored and badly treated... A rep
selling a miracle new flusher said we could nominate any vehichle to flush,
and emiish test it either side.

Amazingly, we where all gob smacked the smokey diesel astra van passed the
emmish tests with flying colours (1.2%), "new" stuff added, and van grannied
around the local lanes like mad... New test... it had gone UP to 1.3%.....
One very red faced smarmy sales rep

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Jun 24, 2005

• #9

"4x4 Me" <[email protected]> wrote >
> You can wind back the pump, I have always let My Landy man (Rockingham
> Landys) do this when needed, as he always winds it back up to it's correct
> place after the MOT, but his MAIN trick is to drop off the fuel filter,
> empty and clean it, then fill the bowl with that diesel injector cleaner
> (Unipart DX is facking brilliant), then tip the rest in the tank and he
> then
> roars it up the very steep hill outside his workshop and watches all the
> gunge vanish out of the exhaust pipe.
>


Yep. I fill the filter with Forte additive but thought this rather too deep
to post here in my initial reply. There are enough doubting Thomas's anyway.

Huw

 

S

SimonJ

Guest

• Jun 24, 2005

• #10

> >> Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel
> > additive
> >> in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the
> > pipework
> >> allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back
> >> temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500
> > revs.
> >>
> > Also try running it on 50/50 paraffin/diesel, just while it is being
> > tested.
> >
> >
>
> Of course Simon's is not a serious suggestion in case the OP thinks it is.
>
Erm........ Yes it is.

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jun 25, 2005

• #11

On or around Fri, 24 Jun 2005 21:42:16 +0100, "Huw"
<hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"4x4 Me" <[email protected]> wrote >
>> You can wind back the pump, I have always let My Landy man (Rockingham
>> Landys) do this when needed, as he always winds it back up to it's correct
>> place after the MOT, but his MAIN trick is to drop off the fuel filter,
>> empty and clean it, then fill the bowl with that diesel injector cleaner
>> (Unipart DX is facking brilliant), then tip the rest in the tank and he
>> then
>> roars it up the very steep hill outside his workshop and watches all the
>> gunge vanish out of the exhaust pipe.
>>
>
>
>Yep. I fill the filter with Forte additive but thought this rather too deep
>to post here in my initial reply. There are enough doubting Thomas's anyway.

interesting point, here - the instructions on the forte and other stuff are
quite specific about adding it at low concentration to a tankful of juice;
yet you get people often putting it neat into the filter. In most cases
this is an emergency measure 'cos it's just failed the test, of course...
However - will it have the same effect over a longer period by adding it to
the fuel, as the makers claim?

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jun 25, 2005

• #12

On or around Fri, 24 Jun 2005 22:58:39 +0000 (UTC), "SimonJ" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>> >> Best advice from me is to pour a couple of bottles of Forte diesel
>> > additive
>> >> in the tank, make sure the mesh in the oil bath air cleaner and the
>> > pipework
>> >> allow plenty of air to pass, then screw the maximum revs screw back
>> >> temporarily until the engine is limited to around 3000 instead of 4500
>> > revs.
>> >>
>> > Also try running it on 50/50 paraffin/diesel, just while it is being
>> > tested.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Of course Simon's is not a serious suggestion in case the OP thinks it is.
>>
>Erm........ Yes it is.
>

There are various tricks. One is to advance the pump timing quite a bit.
Make sure you mark where it's supposed to go back to, though.


Depends also on what smoke you're getting. If it's black/dark grey-blue
smoke then it probably is overfuelling. Most old series motors I've seen
make much blue smoke, which is mostly oil, probably, and is nothing to do
with the setting of the pump.

Another thing is to make sure it's fully up to temperature before testing.

Backing off the max revs is the best bet though - if you have the right
MOT-man, he'll do that in any case with a marginal engine, provided the
ministry man isn't there watching. I've seen cat-equipped motors where the
BET has been done at idle, not at 3000 revs - as the bloke said, you can
do it if the ministry aren't watching...

This was for one that was over-spec by a stupidly-small amount, not
something like a dud cat.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".

 

H

Huw

Guest

• Jun 25, 2005

• #13

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news[email protected]...
> On or around Fri, 24 Jun 2005 21:42:16 +0100, "Huw"
> <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>"4x4 Me" <[email protected]> wrote >
>>> You can wind back the pump, I have always let My Landy man (Rockingham
>>> Landys) do this when needed, as he always winds it back up to it's
>>> correct
>>> place after the MOT, but his MAIN trick is to drop off the fuel filter,
>>> empty and clean it, then fill the bowl with that diesel injector cleaner
>>> (Unipart DX is facking brilliant), then tip the rest in the tank and he
>>> then
>>> roars it up the very steep hill outside his workshop and watches all the
>>> gunge vanish out of the exhaust pipe.
>>>
>>
>>
>>Yep. I fill the filter with Forte additive but thought this rather too
>>deep
>>to post here in my initial reply. There are enough doubting Thomas's
>>anyway.
>
> interesting point, here - the instructions on the forte and other stuff
> are
> quite specific about adding it at low concentration to a tankful of juice;
> yet you get people often putting it neat into the filter. In most cases
> this is an emergency measure 'cos it's just failed the test, of course...
> However - will it have the same effect over a longer period by adding it
> to
> the fuel, as the makers claim?
>

I can only speak for Forte which works as you say. I only very occasionally
use it because its effect is relatively long term. I would use, equally
effective but cheaper, ATF added to the tank but it is rather red. I do add
ATF to older tractors fuel as needed to stop white smoke [incomplete
combustion] at low revs. One treatment is effective for at least 12 months
in most cases.

Huw