Diesel Manifold Change (Swirl Flaps)

This week end of 26th -27th sept i decided to remove my diesel manifold so a manifold without swirl flaps could be fitted, this is a preventive measure only, the car was running great.

At the same time i intended to fit a new fuel filter, and also change the gearbox oil, Haldex oil & filter, due to the fact removing the manifold was/is a nightmare i have only sorted out the manifold, even then its still not fully sorted, photos to follow once i have up loaded them.

Fuel filter and it's housing removed manifold ready to be removed.
1

Replacement manifold swirl flaps removed.
2

I thought great this will be a steady little job, little did i know

The manifold requires plenty of space to remove it and replace it.
The fuel filter bracket (pictured) needs removing to allow more space.
It's only secured by 4 bolt, and comes off easily, once you've found them.
The throttle body can remain on the boost pipe, the 2 nuts just need loosening, but the bolt needs removing, so it can slip backwards and clear of the manifold. The only other thing is a bracket at the back of the manifold, but once the TB and filter bracket is removed, access to the bracket bolt is easy.

The manifold requires a bit of a wiggle to get out, and the new one in.

Then there's all the pipes and wires to reconnect.

Hi John.
Yes i searched for those bolts i could only find two so as i had a spare to fit i snapped some of the bars off the manifold to remove it


1

Ground down the bracket to replace the manifold,
2

i noted you re-routed your vacuum pipes on the manifold over the top of the manifold ? any reason behind that, marked by yellow dots.
2N


I have got to remove the manifold again today now as the new seals have arrived midday today,
3

The bolts for the fuel filter bracket are difficult to find, but there are 4 in total I think 2 have 10mm heads, the other 2 have 13mm heads, but I could be wrong there.
Here's the bolt locations from the manual blueprint. I used this to locate the bolts when I took it off to do the head.

Arctic2 said:

i noted you re-routed your vacuum pipes on the manifold over the top of the manifold

Click to expand...

I routed the pipe over the top, simply because I forgot to put it on while the manifold was off.

It's pretty much impossible to fit once everything is assembled, so I just bunged it on over the top. It doesn't do anything now anyway, so I might just blank the pipe at the vacuum solenoid and pull the pipe off completely.

its fun isnt it. not only do you need the hands of a five year old ,they need to be double jointed as well.
there doesn`t seem to be anything on that engine that is easily accessible.i changed the heater plugs,
and still dont know if they work.twelve months later. due to not having any really cold weather.

Nodge68 said:

The bolts for the fuel filter bracket are difficult to find, but there are 4 in total I think 2 have 10mm heads, the other 2 have 13mm heads, but I could be wrong there.
Here's the bolt locations from the manual blueprint. I used this to locate the bolts when I took it off to do the head.View attachment 220168


I routed the pipe over the top, simply because I forgot to put it on while the manifold was off.

It's pretty much impossible to fit once everything is assembled, so I just bunged it on over the top. It doesn't do anything now anyway, so I might just blank the pipe at the vacuum solenoid and pull the pipe off completely.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
Yes found them today when i removed the manifold again due to the new seals arriving, and also it just did not feel right,
1

2

the bottom three manifold securing bolts would not drive home properly? so off comes the manifold, new seals fitted to it and tried again, still not seating right? then i realised i had not taken off the bolt which attaches to the housing for the MAP sensor seen in this photo here with the bracket attached, i removed the bracket but left the bolt in place,
3

Once that was removed the manifold seated perfect, and bolted up properly, still need to fit the fuel filter tomorrow, and bleed it, hoping she starts up ok.
4

I'm sure it'll be ok. I actually don't mind working on this engine. It reminds me of other PSA engines I used work on when I worked for Citroën. The configurations change a bit, but PSA still put bolts in impossible to see locations.

Nodge68 said:

I'm sure it'll be ok. I actually don't mind working on this engine. It reminds me of other PSA engines I used work on when I worked for Citroën. The configurations change a bit, but PSA still put bolts in impossible to see locations.

Click to expand...

Hi John.
You were correct fitted the fuel filter, primed the filter with the bulb, did this for a while but still had an air bubble, then decided to go for it, and the flame started with a little coughing but sounded ok after, gave it some revs, let it tick over for a while, turned the engine off let it settle for a while, i then used the bleed bulb again just to make sure started the flame again first press of the button started, few more revs, and turn offs, tidy up, went for my tea, then after eating took it for a run, it felt ok bit more power in lower gears i think due to the flaps being removed, well more responsive is a better word i suppose, the armour plate needs to be attached to the fuel filter in the morning, once that is fitted another good run and fill the tank up, i can then more onto the engine oil change, gearbox oil, diff oil, and Haldex filter, so still quite a lot to do and the rain is heading our way

Fitted the armour cage for the filter, this thing must weigh 4kg if it was in an explosion i doubt it would even dent it.
1

2

next fit the plastic under tray,
3

Drop in the fuel filter land rover original,
4

Bolt that down ready for priming the filter.
5

This is the priming tool i used.
6

Fitted to the filter ready to do some pumping
7

Here you can see the air in the system which as to be primed out before even trying to start the car, never try to start the Freelander unless you have bleed the system and the fuel filter is full.
8

The fuel system as been bleed and i have had the engine running for a while with some revs, stopped and started a few times with the bulb still insitu.
9

Fuel hoses connected back up engine running ready for a quick blast round the block.
10

Couple of videos to follow tomorrow.

Good work Arctic.

I'm surprised you didn't take the opportunity to replace the oil filter while you had the intake manifold and fuel filter crash assembly removed. It found it much easier that trying to get at the silly filter with everything in place.

Performance wise, I'd expect throttle response to improve at low RPM, as the cylinders can fill with air better off boost, with all the ports open.

It's definitely a worthwhile modification, and future piece of mind.

Looking forward to the videos.

Nodge68 said:

Good work Arctic.

I'm surprised you didn't take the opportunity to replace the oil filter while you had the intake manifold and fuel filter crash assembly removed. It found it much easier that trying to get at the silly filter with everything in place.

Performance wise, I'd expect throttle response to improve at low RPM, as the cylinders can fill with air better off boost, with all the ports open.

It's definitely a worthwhile modification, and future piece of mind.

Looking forward to the videos.

Click to expand...

Arrh why didn't i think of that sort out the oil filter, from the top, never mind it will give me an excuse to use the new tool i purchased, which i have sprayed silver so it will be easy to see under the car usually i use the 27mm ratchet spanner

1

2

3

4

Arctic2 said:

will give me an excuse to use the new tool i purchased,

Click to expand...

I like that tool. I might make up something similar, for when I do mine next time.
I might do mine early this time, as I can remove any debris left over from the engine repair.

Nodge68 said:

I like that tool. I might make up something similar, for when I do mine next time.
I might do mine early this time, as I can remove any debris left over from the engine repair.

Click to expand...

John.
I am hoping its going to fit regarding the access, i will soon know once the rain stops and i can play again, took the Flame for a good run today and some knocking about driving and it all seems fine, so onwards and upwards.

Arctic2 said:

am hoping its going to fit regarding the access, i will soon know once the rain stops and i can play again,

Click to expand...

Looks like in interesting tool. I'm definitely going to make something similar for mine.

Arctic2 said:

took the Flame for a good run today and some knocking about driving and it all seems fine

Click to expand...

The engine seems to recover from air in the fuel lines pretty quickly. At the weekend when I was trying to identify if the injector was faulty or the drive circuit, I was surprised how little cranking was needed to get the air out of the injector and rail. The lift pump definitely moves a decent volume of fuel per engine revolution.

I'm hoping the replacement crank sensor arrives this week, just to eliminate that, before I move on the the harness and PTM.

Hi Guys reporting back on the tool Steve D you were correct not enough room to use the tool in the form shape it was, so i had to do a bit of modification on it, after that it fitted ok but could no longer be used as a ratchet effect, but it reaches the oil cap great, so a little more modification ie fit the ratchet from the 27mm spanner and i think it's game on for next time.

Few photo of the tool below.

Under tray guard off.
1

Sump plug removed
2

Oil drained
3

New re-shaped tool in situ easy to grip and undo the cap, but no ratchet which i aim to solve.
4

cap ready to remove for new oil filter.
5

Cap off the car and old filter removed
6

Fit a new seal always and make sure its in the right groove.
7

8

9

Add new oil to the seal before fitting to the car.
10

Cap cleaned out new seal and new filter fitted ready to fix to the car.
11

Fitted back on the car will do another change in March i like to change the oil every 6 months regardless of mileage covered.
12

Tool in its original shape i spray painted silver so its easier to see under the car.
13

To over come the tool problem that it fits but as no ratchet i have attached the ratchet from the spanner.
I managed to find the time today to sort out the the tool which did not have enough space to use until i reformed it, as above i could only use it, as a one turn remove and repeat to undo the oil cap.

1

So today i made a tool out of both the spanner above and the 27mm ratchet which was always that little bit short and was hard to move back and forth.
2

The result is this hybrid between both.
3

It will not see any action now until March 2021 when i changed my engine oil again ready for spring/summer.

Arctic2 said:

This week end of 26th -27th sept i decided to remove my diesel manifold so a manifold without swirl flaps could be fitted, this is a preventive measure only, the car was running great.

At the same time i intended to fit a new fuel filter, and also change the gearbox oil, Haldex oil & filter, due to the fact removing the manifold was/is a nightmare i have only sorted out the manifold, even then its still not fully sorted, photos to follow once i have up loaded them.

Fuel filter and it's housing removed manifold ready to be removed.

1

Click to expand...

Arctic2 said:

Replacement manifold swirl flaps removed.

2

I thought great this will be a steady little job, little did i know

Click to expand...

Hi Arctic2, Did you manage to replace the intake manifold without removing the rigid EGR pipe? Following along with the Haynes manual and it says to remove the EGR pipe but I'll be b******d if I can get the lower bolt out on the rear end of it!