Diesel Heater - I’m having a go at fitting

Hi, a few pics of the start of my diesel heater install. Going quite well, but any comments welcome…

Small tank will be going at the top of the rear wheel arch in a simple bracket. A sealed inspection hatch next to the rear bench seat will allow filling, and no vapours in the cabin.

It is a good idea to take the diesel feed from the top of the tank, that way the chance of leaks are minimised.
I have them same air vents on my boat, and they are poor quality, you only have to look at them and the twisty bit bloody falls off!
The supplied fuel filter is pure shti
The supplied green fuel pipe is equally shti, best to use 4mm od nylon pipe and short sections of 3.2mm id rubber hose to join nylon to the heater and fuel stubs.

The diesel heater itself is bit of a weapon, previous one was an Eberspacher 1.8kw, new one is the so called 8kw, which is really a 5kw, the heater trunking is quite large but it does shift some air.

Suffice to say you will not be cold.

Always worth doing some research on the controller, as there are many types, and some can do things that others cannot.

Ps that is the best colour for a series land rover.
Pps I have never seen such a clean series gearbox.

Thanks. Useful info.

It’s a petrol s111 so need a diesel tank, and yes I’m using some hard fuel line.

I’ve gone for a 2 kw one as it was smaller to fit in the seat box, and came with 60mm ducting, so I’ll see how it goes… hope it’s up to it!

Ha, the gearbox has just gone back in… after I rebuilt it a few times… but that’s a whole other saga… won’t look that clean for long I’m sure! Thanks

Tidy.

Silicone fuel line isn’t fuel safe and will disintegrate.
Nylon fuel line sends the tick of the pump through the vehicle.
The unit itself draws power when switched off. So do some of the control units. Use an isolating switch from the live feed to stop it draining the battery but don’t use that switch to turn the unit off. It needs to go through a shutdown sequence before isolating.