Definative tests for cracked liner?

Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the problem? I'm off to look at a P38
tomorrow & whilst most things are easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!

Nige


--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"

Nige wrote:
> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the problem? I'm off to look at a P38
> tomorrow & whilst most things are easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!

Without taking the lid off ?

Steve

Steve wrote:
> Nige wrote:
>> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
>> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
>> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
>
> Without taking the lid off ?
>
> Steve

Yeah!!! I dont the seller will like ripping his head off!!!

There must be some definitive way?

Nige

--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"

....and Nige spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...


> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
> Nige
>
>
> --
> Subaru WRX
> Range Rover LSE (Bob)
>
> '"gimme the f*ckin' money"

The only way I know of is to ask the seller to have the engine cold when you
arrive, and check the water level. Then take it for a good run to get
everything to normal temp, return to base, let it cool down and check if it
has lost any. Significant water loss, residual pressure in the system,
overheating on the test drive are all bad signs. The only way to know for
sure is to take the head off and look, but water level is a good indication.

Bear in mind that even if it's a bad'un, there are solutions - new short
engines aren't ridiculous money, and someone (ACR?) does top-hat liners that
cure it - PROVIDED that you get the car for a price that factors this in.
If not, keep looking - there are plenty about, and going for daft money in
some cases. Also, remember that although people bang on about this problem,
it's still not common. I bought my P38 at 43K miles and sold at 87K, and it
never overheated (even towing a caravan across France in a heatwave) and
never used a drop of water.

If you get a good'un, it's a brilliant car. Did the RRC not turn out as
well as you had hoped?

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)

"Richard Brookman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> ...and Nige spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
>
>
>> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
>> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
>> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
>> Nige
>
> The only way I know of is to ask the seller to have the engine cold when
> you arrive, and check the water level. Then take it for a good run to get
> everything to normal temp, return to base, let it cool down and check if
> it has lost any.

I'll second that, especially the bit about being cold initially. You can
also whip the plugs out and look for one that appears considerably cleaner
than the rest, much the same thing as lifting the heads and seeing one
piston that appears "washed" clean with very little carbon. You could always
borrow some sort of endoscope thingy and look into the combustion chambers
for signs of washing...??

> Significant water loss, residual pressure in the system, overheating on
> the test drive are all bad signs.

Remember though that the system will be pressurised even if the engine is
perfectly good.

> The only way to know for sure is to take the head off and look, but water
> level is a good indication.
>
> Bear in mind that even if it's a bad'un, there are solutions - new short
> engines aren't ridiculous money, and someone (ACR?) does top-hat liners
> that cure it - PROVIDED that you get the car for a price that factors this
> in.

Also available from Lund Engines down in Devon, and most likely any other
decent engineering shop almost anywhere else in the country, as the liners
are available readily. Be warned though, an exchange top-hat linered bare
block only will set you back £800+. If you find anyone doing them cheaper,
please let me know!

Badger.
B.H.Engineering,
Rover V8 engine specialists.
www.bhengineering.co.uk
www.roverv8engines.com
DiscoII 4.0V8, on gas.
110 4.6V8, on gas and steroids!
TR7 3.9V8, on axle stands!!
Stag 3.0V8, the "Rumble-Bee", on the ramps at present.
Thunderbird Sport 900, the "Bumble-Bee", for sale.

Nige wrote:
> Steve wrote:
>> Nige wrote:
>>> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
>>> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
>>> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
>>
>> Without taking the lid off ?
>>
>> Steve
>
> Yeah!!! I dont the seller will like ripping his head off!!!
>
> There must be some definitive way?
>
> Nige
>
> --
> Subaru WRX
> Range Rover LSE (Bob)
>
> '"gimme the f*ckin' money"

Maybe the suggestion was to let the seller know that was likely to happen if the
specified fault was found!

--
"He who says it cannot be done should not interrupt her doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

Richard Brookman wrote:
> ...and Nige spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
>
>
>> Is there sucha thing, as in how do i really know if it has the
>> problem? I'm off to look at a P38 tomorrow & whilst most things are
>> easy enough to spot, I could use a little experience here!!!
>> Nige
>>
>>
>> --
>> Subaru WRX
>> Range Rover LSE (Bob)
>>
>> '"gimme the f*ckin' money"
>
> The only way I know of is to ask the seller to have the engine cold
> when you arrive, and check the water level. Then take it for a good
> run to get everything to normal temp, return to base, let it cool
> down and check if it has lost any. Significant water loss, residual
> pressure in the system, overheating on the test drive are all bad
> signs. The only way to know for sure is to take the head off and
> look, but water level is a good indication.
> Bear in mind that even if it's a bad'un, there are solutions - new
> short engines aren't ridiculous money, and someone (ACR?) does
> top-hat liners that cure it - PROVIDED that you get the car for a
> price that factors this in. If not, keep looking - there are plenty
> about, and going for daft money in some cases. Also, remember that
> although people bang on about this problem, it's still not common. I
> bought my P38 at 43K miles and sold at 87K, and it never overheated
> (even towing a caravan across France in a heatwave) and never used a
> drop of water.
> If you get a good'un, it's a brilliant car. Did the RRC not turn out
> as well as you had hoped?

Oh yeah, i love it, but i notice the prices of P38's are silly right now, I'm only off for a look, but
you never know!!!!

Might just start a RR collection!

Nige


--
Subaru WRX
Range Rover LSE (Bob)

'"gimme the f*ckin' money"

On or around Sun, 8 Jan 2006 18:50:55 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Remember though that the system will be pressurised even if the engine is
>perfectly good.

especially, in fact. It's designed to be pressurised.

it's when it pressurises to the extent of blowing coolant out that you have
troubles...

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.