Defender wheel positions / alignment

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Andytyav

Member
Posts
13
Location
Norfolk
Hi All

Something I've searched but there doesn't appear to be much info about
Bought my 51 90 TD5 pick up about 8 months ago, it wasn't sitting 'correctly' it was higher one side (as the previous owner had replaced the shocks and springs one side), and the wheels didn't sit in the 'middle' of the arches correctly I bought a new standard set up (shocks and springs) it looks better but the wheels still aren't in the centre of the arches eg rear drivers side outside edge of tyre in line with outside edge of wheel spat, rear passengers side outside edge of tyre sticks out past the wheel spat, the fronts aren't as bad and are pretty much the same each side It drives straight and brakes straight
Any ideas as to why the rears are different?
 
Cheers for the quick replies!
I've had the wheels off and can't see any spacers or anything bent etc I'll have measure up off the chassis tomorrow
I'll attached some pictures not the best but it shows the issue, when I figure out how to!!
 
Photos
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The trailing arms run from each side of your rear axle to mounting points on the chassis. Look to see if one side is tightened down more than the other. In other words, how much of the trailing arm threads protrude through the nuts.
 
Wheel offset as James has said, google it, get a straight edge and a ruler and get measuring, literally 1 minute to do all 4 before you get involved in chassis/susp stuff.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Neilly I've measured off the chassis to the outside edge of the tyres and There's not much in it.
Al203 I did notice play in the bushes when checking the trailing arms as suggested, so went and parked on a slope to send the weight of the truck 'backwards',a considerable gap between the nut / washer and bush appeared. Tried to tighten them but there tight as! Figured if they've been rattling about I may as well replace them.
Lynall / James not had a chance to check the offset but the wheels are all marked 7j 16 33.0 if that makes sense?!
Guess with the bushes rattling around the wheels/axel can move about changing the position of the wheels, hence the measurements off the chassis being 'OK'
I'll get all the bushes changed then have another measure up, would it be an idea to get all the wheels off and support the chassis when changing the bushes to let everything settle instead of doing one side at a time? Figured I should change the front and A frame bushes while I'm at it??
 
Blimey,

I think you will put a lot of peeps here in shock, you looked at and checked it all. Good on yer.

From my POV, if from the chassis to outside edge is the same ( what was the difference?) then may be worth double checking how the tub sits.

If it was bushes, then how about driving forward, measuring, then reversing and measuring to see if it makes a difference.

Cheers
 
How long's the piece of string? Simple enough to get levers in/jack up etc to identify dodgy ones, but if you've got to take something off to change one bush of several, I'd do the others at the same time.

If you find that you still have a difference side for side check that it hasn't had a lift at some stage and had adjustable Panahard rods fitted, because they'd push too far if they weren't adjusted back again.
 
Looks like one sagging wheel arch spat and one straight one in the pics.

Might want to read up on how a panhard rod works. As the vehicle moves up and down relative to the axle. The body will also move left and right over the axle. Meaning a higher or lower than standard ride height will result in one wheel sticking out more than the other. And there is no guarantee that a standard ride height will be perfect. I suspect many/most Land Rovers of this type have similar traits. Even if the owners haven't noticed.

But yes. Something slightly bent or just out of true could give a similar effect easily.
 
Cheers Boguing all looks standard underneath but I will double check!
Are polybushes the best bet I've not got any experience of them do they make much difference?
300bhp/ton the pictures aren't that great it's more noticeable in the cold light of day!!
 
Are polybushes the best bet

I've fitted Super pro, and ordinary polybushes - the difference is the price - the polybushes are cheap - about £65 quid for a full set for a 'fender / RRC / D1 - two part ones are easy to fit too - the work is getting the old ones out - do a search on here - lots of advice......:)
 
I'm fitting original LR stuff to mine. Maybe not as good for off road, but let's be honest here...

Very true! I Fitted standard shocks and springs as I'm not planning any 'proper' off roading!
Just wondered if they last longer etc, time for a search me thinks!
 
I've fitted Super pro, and ordinary polybushes - the difference is the price - the polybushes are cheap - about £65 quid for a full set for a 'fender / RRC / D1 - two part ones are easy to fit too - the work is getting the old ones out - do a search on here - lots of advice......:)

Fitted a few sets to my own vehicles, and a few to other peoples. I usually go with a good quality two part set. Not had any problems with them, ever.

I'm fitting original LR stuff to mine. Maybe not as good for off road, but let's be honest here...

There is nothing wrong with metalastik bushes off road, maybe some very extreme comp vehicles might benefit from the extra hard polys, but for normal off road use standard is fine.

Very true! I Fitted standard shocks and springs as I'm not planning any 'proper' off roading!
Just wondered if they last longer etc, time for a search me thinks!

Nothing wrong with standard shocks and springs off road either.

I fitted Superpro poly to mine............................ just because it was easier!

Same here first time around, but then I discovered they are actually good as well.
 
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