Defender to Series doors.

Ok so when I bought my 3 it had Defender doors on it and there ok but not perfect so was thinking about going back to Series doors. I see John Craddock does the door bottoms for £58 plus vat and glazed door tops for the same price. So £139 a door. What else would I need to complete the transplant? Obviously a seal in between the top and bottom of the door. I take it I can re use my hinges? I take it I will need new door handles/locks? Is that it?

Thanks.

Norrie.

Striker plate on the tub?

Rattlegun said:

Striker plate on the tub?

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So is that different as well?

Thanks.

Norrie.

Your 90 doors. Are the lift up handles or push button?

Rather than buy new , you could probably pick some second hand ones at Newbury next weekend . Just a thought .

Hicap phill said:

Your 90 doors. Are the lift up handles or push button?

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Lift up handles.

I'm sure you can use the same strikers then.

I was thinking to use one piece doors in place of series 2/2a doors hopeing to stop door tops pulling out over 50mph, do the one piece doors fit tight?

It depends on the condition of the doors and who's fitted them.

Norrie

Make sure yiu give them a good rubbing down with wet'n'dry to, i have found in the past that if you paint on top of the primer that they come in it will peel

Do I also need new door cappings for the Series doors as it looks as if they go completely over the top of the door bottom when the Defender ones just go on the outside.
I really need to know this as I’m supposed to be dropping of all my cappings to be galvanised tomorrow.

Thanks

Norrie.

norried said:

Do I also need new door cappings for the Series doors as it looks as if they go completely over the top of the door bottom when the Defender ones just go on the outside.
I really need to know this as I’m supposed to be dropping of all my cappings to be galvanised tomorrow.

Thanks

Norrie.

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I did not think defender doors had capping at all. But yes the series door capping completely cover the top of the door bottom. They are visible as the full capping on the outside and a lip below the seal on the inside.

Ok thanks.i think I might be best to try and get a set of used doors even if they are rotten to get the capping and handles etc.off


Norrie

I have just done this with a friend who was fitting military door tops to his defender.
Series door handles/locks are very cheap new, unless you are looking at anti-burst ones, so I would not bother with second hand.
The cheapest way to get the capping is to buy a set of very ruined/un-salvageable doors and then refurbish the cappings.
The other pieces you need: check straps and mounting brackets, and the lock catch can be picked up very cheaply second hand.
I would also not bother buying door tops second hand unless you are going to the early 110/military ones which are all aluminium (which would not be original fitment on yours). They are cheap enough to get fully glazed and as far as I am concerned they are a wearable/disposable item. The rate at which they rust means they don't last long so finding a good set second hand will be difficult.

Early 90/110 doors had a pretend galv capping which attached to the outside only of the 1 piece door. This 'capping' was ommitted with the push button door.
This has been a landyzone public service announcement .

Paul.G said:

hopeing to stop door tops pulling out over 50mph

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Show off, you'll be telling us next you can hear the radio.........

Rodeo Joe said:

Show off, you'll be telling us next you can hear the radio.........

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Hahaha, this has just been put on hold as I just got a Defender 110