Defender TD5 immobiliser problem

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stumpyj

Active Member
Posts
113
Location
Perth, Scotland
Hi everyone
I've lurked around this forum for years and read with great interest the different problems and challenges that Landy owners have. I had a Series 3 back in the day and after many years finally managed to buy a 20 year old Defender TD5 90 from a friend who has a local garage, I was actually at the auction when he bought it himself 5 years ago.
She worked all her life in a quarry and averaged about 3.5k miles a year and was well maintained. My friend spruced her up and got ready to sell her and then an intermittent immobiliser fault meant that he couldn't sell it without thinking that it would come back with the fault, so he parked it in a lock up and forgot about it. Over the last 5 years I have been on at him to sell it to me and one night over a pint he did. He also offered a lock up next to the garage and use of all his equipment which was immensely generous. Basically since August 2019 myself and my daughter have stripped her down and are completely rebuilding her mechanically. I want her to look like a 20 year old Landy to the eye but underneath I want her all new(ish). We aren't mechanics but have followed manuals and just kind of figured it out. My daughter has posted the story on Instagram landierestoration .

Yesterday she started up and I drove it round to the front of the garage as my friend was letting me to use his ramps and worked on her all day. At the end of the day she wouldn't start. I did notice that when i drove her in she chugged and spluttered abit and thought nothing of it. For the first time since I have worked on her the horn honked and she wouldnt start. She turned over and the fuel pump (new fitted 2 weeks ago) was making the right noises) but the gauge showed empty and she wouldnt start. We pushed her to the lock up and today I poured 2 containers of diesel in her and even did the fuel filter self bleed incase air was in the system. When she did turn over she didnt start. But she honked lot of the time. I did notice that even with the ignition on the gauge showed empty (when it could have been).
Years ago my friend sent the ecu to a specialist to remove the immobiliser which he says he also had to do something else to it when it was returned but couldnt remember. I found a blipper in the dash and changed the battery but that doesnt seem to have worked (to be fair Ive never needed it before and im not sure if its connecting). The bulkhead wiring loom isnt the best and the OBD plug has had some tinkering at some point in her life. I am getting a salvage OBD plug from ebay with some of the wire still on so that I can cut mine and solder the wires.

Sorry to have rambled, just wanted to give the full picture. Basically Im stumped why the immobilser problem has just come back. And how can I get rid of the immobiliser as I want to be able to trust it.

Ive attached some photos. Any advice appreciated, or suggestions welcomed. I live in Perth, Scotland and I really feel that Im on the final hurdle but just been kicked up the arse again!
Ive changed, fuel pump, main wiring loom, injector loom, all suspension, clutch, belts pulleys, all brakes, lights, indicators, inner wings, filters, fluids, rear crossmember, footwells, exhaust, brake pipes, the list goes on!
Any help really appreciated. Ive included some photos of the blipper and others to prove I'm really restoring her and not trying to steal her. As I said Im no mechanic so please be kind!
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IMG_20200105_120638.jpg
IMG_20200105_120734.jpg
IMG_20200105_120700.jpg
IMG_20200105_120638.jpg
IMG_20200105_120638.jpg
IMG_20200105_120734.jpg IMG_20200105_120700.jpg

Stumpy
 
I should have said that it is a 1999 TD5 Defender without Aircon or ABS. I think it has a 10p engine. Prior to yesterday, she pulled like a train, as I fitted a new turbo. So its a bit of a mystery, which seems normal for a Landy (metric and imperial bolts...ahhhhh)
 
Update on the immobiliser problem, it starts first time now but probably 1 out of 5 turns of the key the horn stays on. I switch off and start again and its ok. When the horn is going off the engine still runs. Baffling me at the moment. The speedo has a red light that flashes when the engine is running. Not sure if thats a good thing. Occasionally the horn beeps twice before it starts, but it starts anyway.
Like I said earlier the ecu has been sent away and the immobiliser was taken off but my friend said that he needed to do two things but didnt, something abut an earth and a wire?? He cant remember whohe sent it to as it was 5 years ago.
The OBD diagnostic plug was in bade shape so i soldered a new one on. The garages pretty decent obd scanner software isnt picking anything up (it works on most cars in a working garage) so Im not sure if the if theres an issue with the bulkhead wiring loom. All the other electrics, lights etc work ok.

Any suggestions welcome as I have pretty much put her back together and this seems to be the last thing I need to sort before the mot as the engine warning light is on and I cant get the code to take it off.
 
Hi everyone Ithought that I would update on the immobiliser problem incase anyone else had a similar problem. After many months of checking through things I have cured it (I hope). Basically I removed the dash and took out pin 5 of the 10AS unit. This has stopped the horn sounding twice and starts first time every time (so far).
Next up is to get to the bottom of the OBD2 plug. Im still unsure why Im not getting power from the 12v wire and why Im getting 3.1v from the orange and green wire. Hey ho, onwards and upwards
 
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