Defender TD5 '03 loss of power/misfire issues

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

forej0

New Member
Posts
7
Hi there,

I have a 2003 Defender TD5, which has done 45k miles. Since I bought the car I have had a problem with almost constant misfire from the engine, and an intermittent loss of power (revs max out at around 1500, speed is limited to 5/10mph). Both white and black smoke comes out of the exhaust (not at the same time!!), and usually turning the engine off and leaving it for anywhere from 5 minutes to 24 hours will fix the problem.

SO FAR: I have removed and re-cleaned the ECU of oil (which was also cleaned and replaced at the garage a few weeks ago - however this only temp fixed the problem), I have checked the boost pipes for leaks and have found nothing, I have unplugged the MAF sensor and found no change, I have drained the fuel pump with no odd noises detected, removed and checked the fuel filter (which has no protective casing on it, and does not have the water sensor bit at the top - the wire to the side just hangs loose), checked the air filter.... nothing.

I have been advised to rev the engine higher in 1st, 2nd and 3rd to open up the valves and allow a better supply of fuel through and stop them 'sticking', and I have switched to the expensive diesel. Nothing seems to work. Also, sometimes after I have taken my foot off the accelerator there is still a few seconds of acceleration. I'm not sure if this is normal.

A friend of a friend has suggested it may be either the fuel regulator valve, or the harness may need replacing. I have looked under the engine and there is (what I think) a large leak coming from (lying underneath with feet out the front of the car) the right of the engine. Whilst I haven't noticed any puddles underneath the car, the underneath of the engine does seem to be quite wet.

ANY SUGGESTIONS!?!?
 
The leak could be the pressure regulator and if there was oil at the ecu plug I'd definitely change the injector loom (about £60 for a genuine one) it sounds like these need changing anyway so if it cures it bonus but if not at least it rules them out. You might want to introduce yourself in the intro section or some on here can be mean :D
 
Thanks for replying! In the visitor messages section of my profile do you mean? I'm a newbie to Land Rovers and this forum!!! :confused:

Sorry I should have said, the injector loom was also replaced when the ECU was cleaned.
 
Take the rocker cover off and check the injector harness for oil in the loom. With regards to the white smoke change the diesel cooler as my dads did this and it causes the water to mix with the diesel, hence the white smoke, check your header tank for any diesel in there or diesel smell
 
Cheers for the replies

RE: TD5 POWER... injector harness was recently changed, and the radiator is fine. No diesel in the header.

RE: LRD90TDI... The first time it was scanned it had about 20 faults, so they were cleared. Since then it's always the same four fault codes, none of which are supposedly anything to do with power loss.



A little update: I've investigated a bit, cleaned up the engine and discovered that fluid seems to be coming from the seal around the top of the engine, and the seal has come away in one part. Also around the bolts the seals have cracked. Went for a little drive and fluid had spat out onto the surrounding area.

Could this be causing the problem? If so is it a relatively simple fix - buy new seals, clean area, take off lid, replace seals, replace lid?!

I've also cleaned the pressure regulator and that has no visible fluid after half hour drive.

I have noticed that when the power cuts out completely (as in it is maxing at 20mph, lows revs and is like driving with the handbrake on), if I pull over and pump the accelerator in neutral it clears it. Occasionally if I pump the accelerator when still driving it will also clear the loss of power.

Black smoke comes out once the power has cut completely (as above) and then turns to white once the power starts to come back. This then goes after a few seconds (when doing the pumping procedure as above!).

And finally, I have noticed that sometimes when I accelerate, after taking my foot off the pedal it will keep accelerating for 2 seconds or so. :confused:
 
Have you tried cleaning your MAP sensor?

Is your EGR valve still connected?

Has it ever actually cut out or is it just misfiring?

When it was plugged in and the codes cleared was the live data scanned and what were the injector balances looking like?
 
If you pump the accelerator that starts a fuel purge routine and the light on the dash should flash. If that sorts it for a while your injector seals may be on there way out which is a relitively cheap fix. Mine went earlier this year which just caused my 110 to cut out completely but no limp mode.
 
EGR valve was getting stuck shut, this seems to be what was causing the problems. Got a blanking kit installed and no more loss of power! :)
 
Back
Top