defender td cluth problem

Hi All
I went offroading last night and found that it was getting hard to select gears? all of a sudden the clutch pedal became soft with no resistance, so i hopped out and noticed the fluid resevior was empty? damn so i limped to a petrol station i filled it up with fluid then i bleed it thru on the forecourt lol, the clutch pedal showed resistance when i was bleding it goin all the way to the floor and back again with ease, then once i tightened the nipple up the pedal was soft (no resistance like it was when it went first went on me) and about 3/4 of the way down when depressing the clutch pedal you cant push it any further there is something stopping it goin down and its also making a noise like a thrush bearing noise? but the funny thing is when you undoe the bleed nipple the pedal will travel all the way to the floor as normal? again the lanny has been spot on never had any of these problems before it went all of a sudden infact it was the first time i have ever had to use 4wd low diff lock funny thing was it went straight after i used that lol???
i have read a few forums but there is no air in the system and there is more resistance in the pedal when bleding the system than when you actualy tighten the nipple up and work the pedal then?? then its just a sloppy pedal? there is no apparent leaks coming from the box or cylinder and it dont loose fluid? im also not sure where all the fluid out of the resi went prior? again the was no wet areas around the cylinder or slave area?

sorry for the long thread but i dont want to have take the box out if its a simple fix? cause if i do it means i will have to fit a 300tdi block lol damn!

if your sure there's no pipes split then change both the master and slave cylinders - if that doesnt sort it then it's time to think about clutch arms etc

do the simple easy cheap things first

Sounds to me like your clutch release fork has just worn through - the pedal spring is pulling the pedal up but not the pushrod, so when you press the pedal down the slider slides along the push rod, meets the nut, which of course it can't move, to goes solid.

The fluid probably went into pushing the slave cylinder push rod all the way down like that.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you probably gotta take the engine out.

Wanna hand?

you dont have to remove the engine in order to replace the fork

110 clutch fork leaving gearbox in - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

took them 6 hours - takes around 4 to take the engine in and out.

Admittedly you don't need a crane for that job above though.

they must ave took plenty of tea breaks

hi guys
took the slavecylinder off (which was new) and looked inside the hole and the fork is just situated right at the back of the casing not in the middle where it usauly sits so i presume there is a problem there lol, anyway started taking the box out just have to undoe the gearbox bolts themselves now and i will let you know? do you have to replace the fork or can it be mended?

thanks again guys

a7axl said:

hi guys
took the slavecylinder off (which was new) and looked inside the hole and the fork is just situated right at the back of the casing not in the middle where it usauly sits so i presume there is a problem there lol, anyway started taking the box out just have to undoe the gearbox bolts themselves now and i will let you know? do you have to replace the fork or can it be mended?

thanks again guys

Click to expand...

flipping heck the credit crunch has hit LZ

bung a new one in, the are less than a tenner i think.

Reinforce it like i did too - will never wear out again.

the problem with the release bearing it had melted lol thought it was a bit of a ****e design being plastic?? unfortunaly i didnt put the little white plastic clip on the the fork and now its slightly noisey when your foot is off the pedal lol, anyone who says they have fitted a gearbox in a hour like some other posts want shooting lol that is one job i shall never want to do again thank you very much....