Defender Fuse Problem...Advice needed please...

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J

Jon

Guest
Hi all,

My 2000 Td5 Defender keeps blowing the No 11 Fuse. This is a 10A fuse
and all it does is feed the LH Side light, LH Rear light and number
plate light.

The problem is not a straight short because Ive replaced it again this
morning and all lights work fine immediatly after changing the fuse.

After a 2 mile journey to work they are still working, but this is the
3rd fuse Ive had to change in 3 weeks???

The side light and rear light are the correct wattage (havent checked
the number plate light though).

Come to think of it could the rain be getting in anywhere?

Any ideas or suggestions please?

Thanks
Jon
 
Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> Hi all,



> Any ideas or suggestions please?
>
> Thanks
> Jon


Have you give the light fittings a good clean out? Could be some crud in
there causing a short sufficent to blow the fuse.

Lee


 
In message <[email protected]>, Jon
<[email protected]> writes
>Hi all,
>
>My 2000 Td5 Defender keeps blowing the No 11 Fuse. This is a 10A fuse
>and all it does is feed the LH Side light, LH Rear light and number
>plate light.
>
>The problem is not a straight short because Ive replaced it again this
>morning and all lights work fine immediatly after changing the fuse.
>
>After a 2 mile journey to work they are still working, but this is the
>3rd fuse Ive had to change in 3 weeks???
>
>The side light and rear light are the correct wattage (havent checked
>the number plate light though).
>
>Come to think of it could the rain be getting in anywhere?
>
>Any ideas or suggestions please?
>
>Thanks
>Jon



Is it fitted with towing electrics?

If so check the cable to the Trailer socket has not chaffed on the
chassis / tow bracket

..
--
Marc Draper
 
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:42:22 +0100, Marc Draper
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In message <[email protected]>, Jon
><[email protected]> writes
>>Hi all,
>>
>>My 2000 Td5 Defender keeps blowing the No 11 Fuse. This is a 10A fuse
>>and all it does is feed the LH Side light, LH Rear light and number
>>plate light.
>>
>>The problem is not a straight short because Ive replaced it again this
>>morning and all lights work fine immediatly after changing the fuse.
>>
>>After a 2 mile journey to work they are still working, but this is the
>>3rd fuse Ive had to change in 3 weeks???
>>
>>The side light and rear light are the correct wattage (havent checked
>>the number plate light though).
>>
>>Come to think of it could the rain be getting in anywhere?
>>
>>Any ideas or suggestions please?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Jon

>
>
>Is it fitted with towing electrics?
>
>If so check the cable to the Trailer socket has not chaffed on the
>chassis / tow bracket
>
>.


Marc,

No Tow-bar & electrics fitted. Where would I find the loom that those
"missing" electrics would plug into the check at that end? Rear cross
member somewhere?

Thanks
Jon
 
On Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:22:44 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Jon <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
>> Hi all,

>
>
>> Any ideas or suggestions please?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Jon

>
>Have you give the light fittings a good clean out? Could be some crud in
>there causing a short sufficent to blow the fuse.
>
>Lee
>

Lee,
All light clusters (rear of fitting and wires & lenses at least) are
clean.

Thanks
Jon
 
>No Tow-bar & electrics fitted. Where would I find the loom that those
>"missing" electrics would plug into the check at that end? Rear cross
>member somewhere?
>
>Thanks
>Jon



Behind the o/s/r wheel is a thick rubber flap that hides the back of the
lamp units. Tucked up in there will be a large plug that the towing
electircs plug into.
--
Marc Draper
 
Check the rear number plate light otherwise known as "Rear Loom Short
Circuiting Device"
Land Rover have been using the same unit for years and they are
guaranteed to short to earth after a while, internally they are a crap
design and if moisture gets in, a short to earth is certain. Same unit
on my 101 and it fried the 6 way light switch, be thankful you have
several fuses and not just one 35A to isolate the entire lighting
circuit.

Sean
73FL74 101GS
1984 110 2.5NA
Medway Military Vehicle Group
www,mmvg.net

 
On 2006-04-27, [email protected] <[email protected]> wrote:

> several fuses and not just one 35A to isolate the entire lighting
> circuit.


Stick a 35A circuit breaker in there, then you can clout it if
darkness strikes!

--
Blast off and strike the evil Bydo empire!
 
Jon wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> My 2000 Td5 Defender keeps blowing the No 11 Fuse. This is a 10A fuse
> and all it does is feed the LH Side light, LH Rear light and number
> plate light.
>
> The problem is not a straight short because Ive replaced it again this
> morning and all lights work fine immediatly after changing the fuse.
>
> After a 2 mile journey to work they are still working, but this is the
> 3rd fuse Ive had to change in 3 weeks???
>
> The side light and rear light are the correct wattage (havent checked
> the number plate light though).
>
> Come to think of it could the rain be getting in anywhere?
>
> Any ideas or suggestions please?
>
> Thanks
> Jon

I had frustrating fuse blowing fun & games with my RR P38. It would be
OK for weeks or even months then suddenly start intermittently popping a
fuse that supplies the climate control, ABS ECU, brake lights and a few
other bits. I'd replace the fuse and it would be Ok again for a while. A
pig to isolate what was causing it. It was worse in the summer so I
thought it was something to do with the climate control, nope, wrong. I
eventually narrowed it to the brake light circuit and it was a wire to
the centre brakelight that had been squished between internal trim panel
and the metal in the upper tailgate. I guess it was worse in summer
because of expansion in the sunshine squashing the wire a bit more.

Gazza
1989 RR Classic
1998 P38 (ex Jamie & Louise Redknapp)
 
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