Defender Fault Codes

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tom1979

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Hi, plugged into a fault code reader today, cleared old ones and it said some wont clear. The following codes came up so can anyone tell me if these are anything to be concerned about?

3007-Ambient Pressure Low Fault Logged
3030-Air Flow High Fault Logged
3039-Ambient Pressure Fault Active
3066-Tacho Drive Open Load Logged (if ABS fitted)
3098-Tacho Drive Open Load Active (if ABS fitted)

I don't think the last two count as I doubt I have ABS on a 2000 Defender.

Many thanks
 
I don't suppose you have a tachometer either, which is what those last two are about. It shares a lot of electronics with the Discovery which does. The others are a selection of the things the TD5 ECUs accumulate if left for a long period without having them cleared. If I were you I'd keep trying to clear them clear them and only worry about what keeps coming back. It's the faults that recur which might indicate a malfunctioning sensor somewhere.
 
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Ok thanks - I only tried twice to clear them. There were others which did clear but like you say if they won't clear then they might not even be faults. I don't have a tachometer! Don't know why - when I put it on live data and revved up the engine it sounded like it was screaming at 3000rpm!
 
I'd clean the MAP sensor in the inlet manifold and block or remove the EGR valve which should take care of faults 3007 and 3039.

Then I'd try and borrow a good MAF sensor to see if it clears fault 3030 before spending out on a new GENUINE MAF as the cheap Chinese ones dont last long. If you can not borrow a MAF sensor then just disconnect the electrical connection to the MAF and see if your engine runs any better. If so the MAF needs replacing.
 
Some more tratter fault codes for yer:

P001 leaks oil
P002 water leaks in
P003 Rust
P004 Bits falling oft

:D
 
I'd clean the MAP sensor in the inlet manifold and block or remove the EGR valve which should take care of faults 3007 and 3039.

Then I'd try and borrow a good MAF sensor to see if it clears fault 3030 before spending out on a new GENUINE MAF as the cheap Chinese ones dont last long. If you can not borrow a MAF sensor then just disconnect the electrical connection to the MAF and see if your engine runs any better. If so the MAF needs replacing.


Thanks for your help. The EGR was removed some time ago and I will try disconnecting MAF sensor. Also, what is a MAP sensor?
 
done the map sensor today it was filthy. cant add a pic for some reason. didn't have any carb cleaner so used wd40 - not road tested yet as changing maf as well which is coming tomorrow
 
done the map sensor today it was filthy. cant add a pic for some reason. didn't have any carb cleaner so used wd40 - not road tested yet as changing maf as well which is coming tomorrow
It gets clogged by all the ****e the EGR recycles through your engine. Its why one of the first things you should do is block off or remove the EGR.
 
The EGR was removed ages ago but doubt anything was ever cleaned afterwards!
Its not the easiest or cleanest of jobs to do. I took the manifold off the engine and baked it in the oven for a few hours at 250c until most of the black ****e had carbonised. Then brushed it all out with various wire brushes and improvised scrapers. In hindsight I should have bought a used manifold to clean then just swapped them over to minimise down time.
 
Its not the easiest or cleanest of jobs to do. I took the manifold off the engine and baked it in the oven for a few hours at 250c until most of the black ****e had carbonised. Then brushed it all out with various wire brushes and improvised scrapers. In hindsight I should have bought a used manifold to clean then just swapped them over to minimise down time.

There are some on fleabay for about £40
 
Installed an AAP sensor (had to make it fit as the air box is for a 3pin plug and mine is 4 for some reason) and all errors gone except the ABS ones as I don't have ABS.
 
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