Defender Clutch??

Grimmer · Nov 9, 2010

The clutch pedal on my motor, 1998 300 Tdi 110, has gone overnight from being fine, to having no resistence until the last inch or so of travel, it then works fine, and changes gear with no problems at all. Can any of you kind people suggest what the problem might be, or is my clutch fooked? Hope that makes sense??

I've had a quick search, but I'm not 100% what I'm looking for.

ratty · Nov 9, 2010

sounds like slave or master cylinder fooked. If yer changing one ya might aswell change the other.

Grimmer · Nov 11, 2010

Cheers Ratty, is this something a novice can do? and is it an expensive job? Really not the right time for expensive jobs?

Cheers.

ratty · Nov 11, 2010

Grimmer said:
Cheers Ratty, is this something a novice can do? and is it an expensive job? Really not the right time for expensive jobs? Cheers.

Yes. The hardest part is bleeding it. You can either use an extra pair of hands (or feet) to pump the pedal or you can get an easibleed and do it yerself.

hughesy · Nov 11, 2010

Sounds like your clutch fork could be about to wear through. If so you're in for slightly more fun than just changing hydraulic bits over.

Grimmer · Nov 12, 2010

hughesy said:
Sounds like your clutch fork could be about to wear through. If so you're in for slightly more fun than just changing hydraulic bits over.

Why am I not liking the sound of that

, is there any way of telling what exactly is wrong

ratty · Nov 12, 2010

hughesy said:
Sounds like your clutch fork could be about to wear through. If so you're in for slightly more fun than just changing hydraulic bits over.

I would agree with you except for 2 points. One being that the pedal vanished over night and the second being that he says the clutch pedal works and feels normal at the bottom of the pedal. Usually when the clutch fork is about to die the remaining bit of the pedal travel goes stiff. As the temperature had just started dropping I'm thinking the seals aint liking the cold. I spose a bit of investigation will soon tell.

If it is clutch fork as Hughesy has said it will involve splitting the engine and gearbox to change it. The easiest way of telling is to remove the slave cylinder and have a looksie at the fork through the hole.

Grimmer · Nov 13, 2010

ratty said:
I would agree with you except for 2 points. One being that the pedal vanished over night and the second being that he says the clutch pedal works and feels normal at the bottom of the pedal. Usually when the clutch fork is about to die the remaining bit of the pedal travel goes stiff. As the temperature had just started dropping I'm thinking the seals aint liking the cold. I spose a bit of investigation will soon tell.

If it is clutch fork as Hughesy has said it will involve splitting the engine and gearbox to change it. The easiest way of telling is to remove the slave cylinder and have a looksie at the fork through the hole.

Exactly, cheers Ratty, will have to wait till next week though I'm working twilight shifts a work for the next couple of days, I'll have a look then and get back to you with more questions. :blabla::blabla::blabla:

Will it do my motor any damage driving like this short term???????

ratty · Nov 13, 2010

Grimmer said:
Exactly, cheers Ratty, will have to wait till next week though I'm working twilight shifts a work for the next couple of days, I'll have a look then and get back to you with more questions. :blabla::blabla::blabla:

Will it do my motor any damage driving like this short term???????

I had a master cylinder go on one of my previous landys. I kept driving it for a couple of weeks. I did have to keep topping it up though. Be careful that it doesn't caue your clutch bearing to stick. Try and use the cluctch as little as possible. If you do use the pedal get on and of it again asap.

Defender Clutch??

Grimmer

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ratty

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Grimmer

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ratty

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hughesy

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Grimmer

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ratty

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Grimmer

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ratty

I'm not special I'm limited edition

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