Defender 110 vibration 65/70mph upwards

Hi all-
Not one to usually ask silly questions and fairly confident at solving problems on my own. However.. Im struggling to work out where I’m getting a vibration from on my td5 110 double cab. It is not lifted, all standard suspension.

From 65/70mph+ only when under load I get a harsh vibration felt from generaly underneath/ feels driveline related & is not through the steering.

When coasting or down hill at that speed there is no vibration, soon as you put it under load to increase speed or pull uphill you get the vibration.

I have fitted new wheels & tyres, new LOF solid mass flywheel & clutch, new Winchester Gears transferbox, new front & rear propshafts, new rear shock absorbers - and the vibration is still there.
Engine/gearbox/transferbox Mounts are all ok.

Diff pinions don’t have any play, but is this where you would start to look at next?

Stick a replacement diff in the back? If no change take it out and put it in the front?
There is significant backlash from the rear axle when changing gears- I’m due to fit some new single piece half shafts, but some of the play could potentially be from the diff.

Struggling thinking what else it would be.
Thanks.

MaxyMan said:

Hi all-
Not one to usually ask silly questions and fairly confident at solving problems on my own. However.. Im struggling to work out where I’m getting a vibration from on my td5 110 double cab. It is not lifted, all standard suspension.

From 65/70mph+ only when under load I get a harsh vibration felt from generaly underneath/ feels driveline related & is not through the steering.

When coasting or down hill at that speed there is no vibration, soon as you put it under load to increase speed or pull uphill you get the vibration.

It’s had new wheels & tyres, new LOF solid mass flywheel & clutch, new Winchester Gears transferbox, new front & rear propshafts, new rear shock absorbers.
Engine/gearbox/transferbox Mounts are all ok.

Diff pinions don’t have any play, but is this where you would start to look at next?

Stick a replacement diff in the back? If no change take it out and put it in the front?
There is significant backlash from the rear axle when changing gears- I’m due to fit some new single piece half shafts, but some of the play could potentially be from the diff.

Struggling thinking what else it would be.
Thanks.

Click to expand...

I would have said it’s a propshaft UJ, but as you said they are new, it’s not likely. It could be the prop phasing between UJs is out, but I would expect that to vibrate all the time.

Sounds like you have a already covered a lot of possibilities. You mention new tyres. Could it be a flatspot or bulge on one or more of them, if perhaps they had not been stored correctly? I only mention it as that is what happned with my 90. When they spun my existing tyres on the balancing machine the mechanic could feel the flatspot with his (gloved) hand as the tyre rotated. It was not really visible to the naked eye. Swapping tyres solved it. I had the vibration at a simmilar speed and it was more noticable under load but I did always have it to a lesser degree without load so may not be the same issue.

Hellsteeth said:

Sounds like you have a already covered a lot of possibilities. You mention new tyres. Could it be a flatspot or bulge on one or more of them, if perhaps they had not been stored correctly? I only mention it as that is what happned with my 90. When they spun my existing tyres on the balancing machine the mechanic could feel the flatspot with his (gloved) hand as the tyre rotated. It was not really visible to the naked eye. Swapping tyres solved it. I had the vibration at a simmilar speed and it was more noticable under load but I did always have it to a lesser degree without load so may not be the same issue.

Click to expand...

The vibration was there on the old original wheels & tyres before I fitted the new.

I would have said start with the basics and get your wheels balanced. I had a vibration that was doing my head in and I couldn't figure it out. I'd had my wheels balanced when I fitted new tyres so said no it's not that. Turned out it was and that garage was just ****, got them balanced at a more reputable place and never had a problem afterwards. Like you I was going round everything trying to rule it out when the solution was a lot simpler. Might as well get them checked and done it need be, it wouldn't hurt

It’s not the wheels & tyres it had the vibration on the original set, got those ballenced, no difference, fitted new wheels & tyres already ballenced, still the vibration, get them checked all ballenced perfectly.
If it was wheels & tyres the vibration would be there all the time, not dependent of if I was going uphill or down hill!

99% sure it’s from the driveline somewhere.

Getting to the field of unlikely items now, however worth checking all wheel bearings are running smooth and hubs run true on the vehicle.
You could do the trick of driving on one prop shaft, remove each in turn and drive in diff lock, Should vibration go away with prop removed you will at least know which end the problem is.

tottot said:

Getting to the field of unlikely items now, however worth checking all wheel bearings are running smooth and hubs run true on the vehicle.
You could do the trick of driving on one prop shaft, remove each in turn and drive in diff lock, Should vibration go away with prop removed you will at least know which end the problem is.

Click to expand...

that’s my next move however just spending £700 on a new upgraded transferbox I’m slightly hesitant to run it at 70mph in diff lock! That’ll be my last option

There is no problem running 70 mph in diff lock when one prop is removed, it is just you now have a two wheel drive vehicle front or rear depending on which prop you remove. There will be no extra load on the centre diff as in transmission wind up as one axle is disconnected.
While I would not recommend by doing this with a heavy load or while towing, It is a method many have used to get home after a fail in an axle.
You will only be doing short run with gentle acceleration up to speed. The only thing to be aware of is the driving can feel a bit odd when on front wheels only.

Check your exhaust mounts, I had a similar issue on my TD5 110 DCPU - harmonic vibration from the exhaust under full load drove me nuts until I dumped the centre box and put new hanger rubbers on it - solved

slomofo said:

Check your exhaust mounts, I had a similar issue on my TD5 110 DCPU - harmonic vibration from the exhaust under full load drove me nuts until I dumped the centre box and put new hanger rubbers on it - solved

Click to expand...

Had the same problem caused by part of the exhaust just touching chassis when engine under load.

MaxyMan said:

It’s not the wheels & tyres it had the vibration on the original set, got those ballenced, no difference, fitted new wheels & tyres already ballenced, still the vibration, get them checked all ballenced perfectly.
If it was wheels & tyres the vibration would be there all the time, not dependent of if I was going uphill or down hill!

99% sure it’s from the driveline somewhere.

Click to expand...

If your wheels are unbalanced then you wouldn't necessarily notice it all the time and only really are higher speeds but if they've been done then fair enough. Not that far fetched to think one of them has chucked off a balancing weight at some point though. As I said it wouldn't hurt to get them double checked and rule that out

the_wolf said:

If your wheels are unbalanced then you wouldn't necessarily notice it all the time and only really are higher speeds but if they've been done then fair enough. Not that far fetched to think one of them has chucked off a balancing weight at some point though. As I said it wouldn't hurt to get them double checked and rule that out

Click to expand...

Sorry think you’ve missed what I said previously. you can do 70mph downhill and there’s no vibration, if you 70mph up hill there is vibration.
If it was a wheel out of ballence it would to it at 70mph all the time, not just dependent on if it’s under load or not.

Have checked all the exhaust and it’s completely free or rubbing on anything.
have narrowed it down to the front prop (even though it’s new!) or the axle.

the_wolf said:

I would have said start with the basics and get your wheels balanced. I had a vibration that was doing my head in and I couldn't figure it out. I'd had my wheels balanced when I fitted new tyres so said no it's not that. Turned out it was and that garage was just ****, got them balanced at a more reputable place and never had a problem afterwards. Like you I was going round everything trying to rule it out when the solution was a lot simpler. Might as well get them checked and done it need be, it wouldn't hurt

Click to expand...

Similar experience here .... local tyre place said they only balance such "massive tyres" to +- 10 grams

Solved it by getting my own balancer

MaxyMan said:

have narrowed it down to the front prop (even though it’s new!) or the axle.

Click to expand...

Check the output flange on the TB - they do occasionally come loose ... you can guess how I know that....

Also check balance weights on the prop - I had a vibration on my D1 - very specifically at 68 MPH - you could drive through it, and it went away.... balance weight on front prop, axle end, had fallen orft ... changed the prop for a good used one and all good .... ( I tried to buy a new one, but "they" sent the wrong one , so it went back )...

Hi All. Not quite the same but I almost have the same problem but when towing, however i have a new Defender 110. On a level surface or down hill, no problem, when travelling uphill, i get a heavy vibration. I feels like the drive shaft is "wobbling" when put under load. Im contacting land-rover to see if the issue has been reported with others.

TheDman said:

Hi All. Not quite the same but I almost have the same problem but when towing, however i have a new Defender 110. On a level surface or down hill, no problem, when travelling uphill, i get a heavy vibration. I feels like the drive shaft is "wobbling" when put under load. Im contacting land-rover to see if the issue has been reported with others.

Click to expand...

I would take your postcode off your profile

MaxyMan said:

Hi all-
Not one to usually ask silly questions and fairly confident at solving problems on my own. However.. Im struggling to work out where I’m getting a vibration from on my td5 110 double cab. It is not lifted, all standard suspension.

From 65/70mph+ only when under load I get a harsh vibration felt from generaly underneath/ feels driveline related & is not through the steering.

When coasting or down hill at that speed there is no vibration, soon as you put it under load to increase speed or pull uphill you get the vibration.

I have fitted new wheels & tyres, new LOF solid mass flywheel & clutch, new Winchester Gears transferbox, new front & rear propshafts, new rear shock absorbers - and the vibration is still there.
Engine/gearbox/transferbox Mounts are all ok.

Diff pinions don’t have any play, but is this where you would start to look at next?

Stick a replacement diff in the back? If no change take it out and put it in the front?
There is significant backlash from the rear axle when changing gears- I’m due to fit some new single piece half shafts, but some of the play could potentially be from the diff.

Struggling thinking what else it would be.
Thanks.

Click to expand...

MaxyMAN
You sure have looked at many issues in the transmission without the result you need.
My thoughts are take a look at boost pressure side of the induction system.
OK what is my thinking, problem is predominantly when under load and in the main when traveling uphill.
This is the point the turbo boost will be at maximum pressure. Like you say at the same speed down hill no problem.
If the boost pressure at this point is leaking off then there will be a sudden drop in performance causing the vehicle to slow. Now at this point the leak stops because of the pressure drop, pressure builds up again vehicle speeds up again only to repeat the leak pressure drop pressure builds up cycle. If this is happening repeatedly very quickly it will make the vehicle vibrate like your symptoms. What to look for is all hoses from the turbo to the inlet manifold are they secure. Pay particular attention to the rubber or if changed silicone hose attached to the turbo as this is close to a heat source the exhaust. Look at each joint for telltale signs of a leak maybe a clean area where the air has blown away any muck
leaving a clean witness area. Look at the egr valve and its gasket, the intercooler for leaks but this to a lesser extent because I think it is resealing itself when the pressure drops and the alloy intercooler probably will not. I am also not thinking the wastegate actuator for the same reason. Lastly the wastegate valve its self inside the casting may be damaged or foreign bodies not allowing it to seal properly.
Look at the hoses firstly are they secure if yes take each one off and check for delamination this may be visible by looking inside and deforming the hose with your hands as you roll it round. Check the condition of the hose clips particularly the one at the turbo it will get hot and will expand when engine is running.
So that will give an alternative path to follow.
Good luck.
Tim